So long, 40th Street...

This story can be told with a sad, wistful look at the past of a booming NY district, or it can be told with an optimistic look into the future.  In this post, I will take the optimistic view...

The last retail fabric store of 40th Street is moving

On a quick trip to the garment district on Saturday, I learned that the LAST retail fabric store on that street (between 7th and 8th Aves) is moving. Whoa.  Thrown by this news, I moaned about it being the end of an era... blah, blah, blah...

Yes.  I am talking about NY Elegant Fabrics.  That massive store on 40th Street with all of the delicious fabric eye candy in the windows.  Oh no!!!!

But wait... not CLOSING... MOVING. New location to be announced very soon!

We can't deny that this is a sad moment for this iconic block in the district.  This street once featured such district heavyweights as Rosen and Chadick, Lace Star (which is now Fabrics & Fabrics), and Sposabella... sigh....

But where are they now?  

Oh wait... They have all MOVED!

And life has gone on.  And it will continue to.  We've gotta be grownups about this. What is important, is that we know where to find theses stores now.  Then, GO to those places, SHOP, and SUPPORT these businesses to help them continue well into the future.

Deal?

And, by the way, here's a link I must share.  It helped me to see that this is nothing new... it is just a continuation of a long, inevitable change of the industry and the businesses the district can support in a brick and mortar environment.  We can still shop online when possible and appropriate, and explore new locations, even mounting elevators when necessary!

Quality

**Repost**

"The things we make have one supreme quality; they live longer than us. We perish, they survive. We have one life, they have many lives. And in each life, they can mean different things; which means that while we all have one biography, they have many."

-Niel MacGregor, Director of the British Museum

*For the complete talk, visit the TED website, where he presents a fascinating talk on one particular 2600 year old piece of art.

I invite you to chime in to tell me if I'm alone on this one, but I love to visit fashion and clothing exhibits here in New York City, and have spent many hours over the years, gazing at the lovely, carefully crafted creations of many designers and needle-smiths. One thing I have often wondered, especially when looking at something old and beautifully simple, is "How did the creator of this piece trust his/her own talent enough to know that they needed to work with such high quality materials?" I have often found myself paralyzed with fear before cutting into my never-find-anything-like-this-again fabrics, worrying that one wrong move can send hundreds of dollars worth of fabric to the back of my closet, or bottom of my trash can. How do you know it is worth the effort?

As I wander through exhibits, more often than not, the materials lists on the description placards include words like "silk tulle", or "silk velvet", fabrics with real staying power, and the ability to hold beautifully vibrant colors for years beyond the lifespan of the person for whom they were made. These fabrics are pricier than the rest.

Are they worth it? Well, they sure can be. Who cares? You do... and although I can't promise anyone else will value it as much, a lesser fabric will certainly shorten its lifespan.

Recent experiences with clients are telling me that there is a sincere appreciation for quality. In my dressmaking life, I am seeing more and more brides who want to redesign their own mothers' or grandmothers' gowns, based on the quality, age, and tactile experience of the fabric. Often sewn by hands you have neither met not heard of, these garments resonate, and they still hold a magic that reaches into the future.

So, I say all of this to say, there is enormous value in shopping at the stores where the staff is knowledgeable about the quality, origin and description of the goods they have to offer.

When the occasion is very special, and the budget permits, consider the following stores for wonderful quality...

B&J Fabrics (chiffons, silks, and so much more)



(a fabulous whisper-light metallic sequined fabric from B&J)


(and the top that fabric eventually became)

Rosen & Chadick (also, check out their 126" wide silk tulle! and many other wonderful specialty fabrics)


(a wonderful silk from Rosen and Chadick)


(silk organza from Rosen and Chadick - raw edges)

NY Elegant (silks)


(above fabric - lovely 4 ply silk from NY Elegant)

Lace Star (laces and more - see previous post)


Solstiss (French laces - by appointment only - only for the VERY serious...)

Now, I don't expect my pieces to end up in museums anywhere... but a girl can dream, can't she?

Whew! Spilling the details on the "Speakeasy" tour...

Reposting (from 9/29/12) - for those of you who don't know what the Speakeasy idea is/was, and what I would love to duplicate, if there is enough interest!

Now that the tour is over, and I've had a good sleep, lemme tell you all about it! This was the first Speakeasy tour I've done, and since no two will be exactly the same, I can dish here without spoiling it for those who will come in the future. Our tour was scheduled to meet at 10 AM at the "Big Button", and I arrived quite early. The rain was TORRENTIAL when I got there, so I ducked beneath a shelter for a time, and reemerged when the rain lightened to a steady drizzle. Cindy (my great tour guide partner) and I met the participants as they arrived, just when the sky ABSOLUTELY OPENED UP.

I'm not sure when I've seen it rain so hard.

I briefly wondered if one could build an ark of canvas and boning, since I do know where to get that...

Thankfully, we were all dressed for the occasion, and they were all really good sports about the relentless downpour. We quickly scrambled off to our first destinations.

Because these were smaller stores, Cindy took half of the group to C&J Textiles, while I took the other half to Metro Textiles. Cindy's part of the group absolutely RAVAGED the $6 sale rack. Yes, I said $6. Really, I did say $6. Why do you keep asking me that? (That's why I call it a "Speakeasy"... see?) And good luck going there now. They practically cleaned it out. No, I'm not kidding. When its gone, its gone, until they restock it. You would have had to see it with your own eyes. At Metro, Kashi was, as always, an incredibly gracious host, whose selection is just overwhelming. While there, a serendipitous visit from George of International Pleating, holding THE MOST MAGICAL pleated fabric you ever did see, allowed me the opportunity to introduce him to my part of the group. Truly, the way that pleats can give a new personality to such a tame and classic print... We couldn't even imagine what it must have looked like before pleating until Kashi showed it to us in its original state.

Really, you hold up its pleated version, and you dance with it. Just because you have to.

So, when you're in Kashi's place, you just keep looking at his vast selection of fabrics until things jump out at you. I can be easily distracted by shopping for myself, so I promised myself I wouldn't buy a SINGLE thing. However, I do now have a list in my head that I will need to satisfy shortly. Thanks, alot, Kashi... Kashi has three fabrics I MUST have, and will go to pick up this week. Mostly because I can barely sleep without them. That's just true. On another note, you will feel the need to call the place "Kashi's" instead of Metro Textiles after going there. That's just what happens.

Okay, so then I tried to minimize my excitement as the entire group met up at Fabrics and Fabrics (formerly Lace Star). I just wanted to let them get off the elevator, and GASP as it unfolded before them. I'm not even sure why I mention the name Lace Star when I talk about them now, since this version of that store BLOWS what was known as Lace Star away. This place is VAST, and I can assure you, the sale racks will amaze you. But bigger than that, there are AISLES and AISLES of brocades (and plenty of other things, too) in lots and lots of colors. Fabric-selling industry veterans have told me that a wide variety of brocades are amazingly hard to find. They found them, somehow. The antique French laces, the wild, unusual fabrics...

As I walked around, I kept hearing purrs, shouts and "Come look at this!" from corners and aisles all around this store. And the layout of this store is absolutely stellar. The organization and labeling of goods is just so perfect, I don't think it could be improved upon. I am so serious about that. And it just keeps going, and going, and going! Rahman is just a great, welcoming personality, and I know there are other staff members, but I just gravitate to him specifically, because he is always first to smile!

Understandably, people were reluctant to get things shipped home rather than carry them, because it takes away from their fabric budget (and can be pricey, especially for our Hawaiian!), but arms were getting weary!

From there, we moved on to Rosen & Chadick. David, Ellen and the assistants were wonderfully helpful, and the group was astounded by the quality of the goods they carry. The beautiful heavenly beaded net fabric and velvet combo bought by one member of our group nearly brought tears to my eyes. The printed cottons are also just TO DIE for. The silks, oh, and the silk tie fabrics are just glorious! The cotton twills for pants, the UPSTAIRS... oh yes, there's an upstairs... you mean you didn't know? "Speakeasy"... see?

And here's the deal... you see stuff there you won't find in other stores. The pinwale corduroys in particular are so beautiful, and inspire ideas in so many directions. The layout and lighting are awesome, and the wonderful, warm personalities of David and Ellen are even awesomer... yes, that's a word...

So, from there, we took a quick little subway ride to 28th Street on the 1 train, where I discovered that I could not swipe a whole pile of people with a pay-per-ride fare card... and seriously MTA, why not???? After a few people, the machine tells you that you have exceeded your "transfer limit". Why? Someone explain to me what transfers have to do with this? And the absence of subway personnel makes it especially frustrating. Random venting.  I digress.

So, I just bought more fares, and we moved on. No big deal.

Anyway, our next stop was Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, which offers more stuff than you ever knew you needed. We discussed the joys of waxed hand sewing thread, various glues and adhesives, types of elastic, all sorts of bust fixes and fitting solutions, garment shields, shoe concerns, fabric care supplies, and just soooo much more.

That place was a ball, and everyone was about to keel over, so we all rested out tootsies (and other parts) for lunch. It all worked out fine, but for the next trip, I will make sure to plan lunch better! We all ate well, though! Over lunch, we answered all of the "where can I find" questions they had for us, and got feedback on their favorite stores. Surprisingly enough, the favorites were pretty evenly spread out among the group! Everyone said they had an awesome time, and they were really happy they came! I am so glad!

After the tour, I did a follow up with a few of the store owners, and they had some great feedback for us, too! One of the major points I stress on this tour is that this is meant to be a MUTUALLY beneficial trip.  You get access to gorgeous and fun stuff, discounts, bargains, and relationships I already have with vendors.  They get business from people who probably don't otherwise even know they exist.

The folks at Rosen and Chadick thought the groups was really nice, fun, and interesting to talk to! They were pretty amazed at how far some were willing to travel to come on the tour, and so was I!

Side note: I had NO idea you could drive from elsewhere, park your RV at the marina, and save yourself a hotel bill! Makes coming here crazy affordable!

Kashi really enjoyed the group as well, and was happy to have been able to show them fabrics they found exciting! He has such great prints! 

C&J can really look intimidating, but don't be intimidated. Yes, there is a receptionist, but don't feel put off by the feeling of being asked to state your business. They just wanna help you find what you need... and of course, they want your business!

Manhattan Wardrobe Supply is better explored than explained. Also nice people, in a very businesslike environment.

My request to all of you:

After reading this post, when shopping in the Garment District, make sure to tell anyone who will listen, that you came because you saw the business mentioned on the blog. I can't guarantee that it will always help you at the register, if I'm not there with you... but sometimes it will!

In a nutshell,  conversation flowed, I am really happy that the blog is entertaining for so many, and was happy to meet those who hadn't really followed the blog, but were just excited for the real-life opportunity to go on the guided trip! I was especially excited to have learned so much from those who came on the trip, too!

Oh... and... sorry for no pictures... I was having too much fun to think about photo ops! And vain truth be told, I got drenched, and wasn't much of a fashion plate after the rain! Can you say "hot mess"?

Channelling the 60's - 70's vibe.

I can't believe I'm saying this aloud...

I've always been STRONGLY anti-1960's and 70's clothing.  Not my aesthetic.  Not my time.  At all.  But now, I think...

Maybe this 70's thing that's happening in fashion isn't such a bad idea after all... (What?  Who said that?)

After all, looking at historical data  the 60's-70's seemed to be about the clothing, much more than exposing parts of the body occupying it. If this trend catches on in a meaningful way, you can make pretty bold statements with colors, shapes, trims, and fabrics without looking like a lunatic.  It might be time for some wild creativity!

1971 Spring/Summer - Elegance International Magazine - I love the idea of a coat dress for spring!

I love old copies of the Elegance International catalogue, which features sharp, oversized, fantastic National Geographic-style photography in exotic locations with beautiful scenery. Carefully adhered to each page, are small fabric swatches (suggested and actual fabric used) with prices, sewing pattern brand and number, with complete ordering information.  A very expensive endeavor for the publisher, to be sure, but a fantastic resource, even now, since many of the same vintage sewing patterns can still be found!

Of course we'll start gently.  You can find great fringe at M&J Trimming or Leather, Suede, Skins.
You can find some amazing trims at Daytona Trimming.
You can find great fabric for peasant shirts like this one at Fabrics and Fabrics.

And then, maybe you can even buy a VW bus... 

Of course, I'm kidding!

The Scoop on the April 12 Speakeasy tour...

It rained... but it didn't dampen our spirits!  We started off easy, going into a store I selected for its unique offerings (Butterfly Fabrics), and continued on to a place where I think everyone temporarily LOST THEIR MINDS...

That place was Elliott Berman, with lots of new fabrics, where we found things so beautiful, they almost left us breathless. Man oh man, was there a matelasse that made every one of us gasp...

At Chic, we found lots of fun things... at unbelievable prices.  And yes, I do mean unbelievable...

At Rosen & Chadick, the group was pretty tired after so much stimulation, but we saw much loveliness.

At Metro Textiles, our buddy Kashi had piles and piles of fabrics to behold, some of which I literally had to peel myself away from!

At Pacific Trimming, we found all sorts of lovely buttons, Riri zippers, accessiories, and tools.  I was personally inspired by the things I saw that I have NO IDEA what to do with!  It really opens you up to creative solutions!

After a lovely lunch, the group was gently led into the wonderland that is Fabrics & Fabrics.  Pretty sure that left everyone speechless.  By the way, you have seen their new website, haven't you?

The next tour is May 24. This tour offers a special discounted "Bring a friend" rate!

Please note that there are some new rules for future tours:

Regarding cancellations:

If you have paid and wish to cancel 7 days or more before date - 100% refund

Fewer than 7 days - 50% refund

If you don't come on the scheduled date or cancel within 24 hours or less - you will forfeit your refund, but can switch reservation to a future tour date.

If I cancel a tour for reasons not related to weather, acts of God or other emergencies, you are entitled to your choice of a full refund, or a future tour.

Come along on a tour!  We have lots of fun!

Note: If you were on this tour, there is only one of you for whom I can't find contact details for the lunch credit I promised you.  (You are one of my NY'ers that day) If you are reading this, please get in touch!

So... you wanted a better way to shop for fabric online...

Fabrics & Fabrics has launched a new website, and it is amazing.  You are literally among the very first to know. The photography is particularly great. Just visit, and you'll see. 

Fabric store binge!

Yesterday, I took a client on a private tour of the garment district, showing her the best places for the kinds of things she loves.  While we could have spent a week visiting stores that would have delighted her, we settled on a specifically curated (by me) selection of stores, which she adored.  I, for one, felt like a fabricaholic in a sea of temptation... but I resisted the urge to splurge, just deciding on a few things I will be picking up after the snowy weekend passes... Yeah, I know... stop it - you're not the boss of me!

I've had quite a bit of coffee today... can you tell?

First off, I have to tell you that B&J Fabrics (reviewed not once, but TWICE on this blog, but could use an even FRESHER take now) has a KILLER assortment of printed cottons going on right now.  The colors will make you swoon.  As always, some will really challenge you bank account, but there is also a healthy amount of affordable goodness there, too.  Just dig in, and you'll see! (Note: Don't start on the walls and hangers.)

B&J Fabrics - March 7, 2013

B&J Fabrics March 7, 2013

B&J Fabrics, March 7, 2013

We also stopped into Royal Fabrics.  While not one of my usual haunts, we were lured in by the windows, featuring a beautiful  cotton lacey 1960's inspired... I dunno what you'd call it. Very cool though.  Cue Goldie Hawn and some go-go boots, and we're on! All kidding aside, they really do have some very pretty things.

Spandex House.  Need I say more?  If you want to make a swimsuit, this is where you go for your fabric. The colors, variety, prices and quality are fantastic, so that one was a no-brainer.

DIY Fabrics for home dec fabulousness.  I am almost certain the sign on the store read "DIY", and I've even called it "DIY" myself, but I think their business card or something may have read "Day to Day"  In any case.  This post, and the one it is linked to, will still get you to the proper place on the planet.

Mokuba Ribbon.  A deep sigh.  I have written an article in the current Vogue Patterns Magazine about this land of wonder.  An audible sigh was heard from my client as she explored the beauty of their offerings.  Don't just look.  Touch.  You'll be a believer.

SIL Thread.  Because they have plenty of what you need when it comes to thread, among other things.

Panda - Because they have lots of supplies and tools people need.

Daytona Trimming - Because I've been going there since I was little, and it feels like home to me. I love their old-fashioned approach to business, and that they've got all the swim cup sizes, and crazy-wide elastic!

Steinlauf & Stoler - Because they have quite a range of interfacing types.  I buy my muslin and pattern paper there, too.

Joyce - Because they are all kinds of awesome! And they have all of the handbag stuff, swimwear D-rings and cool closures, feathers, and leather trims.

Metro fabrics - with a deep sigh.  Right now... and I mean RIGHT NOW. The texture and sheen of some of the new fabrics he's got are awesome.  Ask Kashi to show you the new turquoise silk... He'll know what you mean.  Heaven... Also, look at the dotted/spotted pearl shade of silk that looks like a home dec fabric or a jacket.  Absolutely to die!

Fabrics & Fabrics (formerly Lace Star) - Psst... Just take  a gander at the printed silks right now. Oh, and EVERYTHING ELSE!

So, yes.  We squeezed that into ONE day, and it was a FLOOD of information and inspiration.  We both loved every minute of it, though.

I haven't been pushing the Speakeasy tours lately, since both are nearly at capacity now, but you may still inquire, or ask to be notified about any trips to be planned for later dates.

Sequins and the holidays...

If you're anything like me, you have a healthy respect for sequins, and a genuine love for them, but SHUDDER at the thought of trying to cut them away on your seam allowances, dig them out of the crevices of your machine, manipulate them to fit your design and force them to lay the way they were intended. What a pain in the nether region...

Sequins, however, do have one absolutely stellar advantage: they make anything ordinary look festive.  They make you feel like a million bucks.  Here are some alternative thoughts on how to use sequins for your holiday finery. The following project was for a client of mine.

These are fabulous metallic sequins attached  to a mesh from B&J Fabrics.

This fabric is wonderful, but the application of those sequins looks so random, how do I navigate the seams efficiently with a sewing machine?

My solution?  You don't.  You pull out a hand sewing needle and thread, and go for it! (I did line this top with china silk, by the way, using my client's flesh tone.)

Minimal seams make it easier.

Why not show a little skin in the back, huh?

Okay, so you can also add sequin trim to a garment, or you can get hot-fix sequins you can iron on, which I imagine, can be problematic, so experiment a bit before committing to this.  For the truly committed, you can sew on your own sequins individually, but you'd also be amazed at how beautiful a delicately interspersed sequin embellishment with a Swarovski crystal center can be on even the very simplest silk tank! Add them to your shoes, you bag, your hair accessory, your hat... whatever!

From low priced to high end, there are LOTS and LOTS to choose from.  I'm feeling like an infomercial here. (Note: The above example is a high-end one.)

So where you can you find fun sequins?

Loose: M&J Trimming, Pacific Trimming, Daytona Trimming, Joyce

Trims: Joyce, M&J Trimming, Mood

Fabrics: B&J, Mood, Fabrics & Fabrics

So, it actually isn't too late to get started.  Don't be afraid to add a little sparkle to your holidays this year!

Lacemaking, and what we can learn from spiders...

The art of making lace in one form or another has existed from the earliest ages. There are scriptural references to various web-like fabrics, which were made of rude construction, no doubt, but whose general characteristics were identical with those productions of modern skill which have for centuries been known as lace. Homer and other ancient writers constantly mention net-works of fancifully embroidered materials; gold thread-work was nown to thee Romans, and as Egyptian robes of state are depicted upon the tombs of the earlier dynasties as being fashioned from a looped net-work or crochet..."

-The Art of Modern Lace-Making (Butterick Publishing Company, 1891)

In an old Greek story, Arachne (uh-rak-nee) loved to weave. Her weaving was so beautiful and perfect that the goddess Athena got jealous. To punish Arachne, the goddess turned Arachne into a spider. But Arachne still loved to weave, and continued to do so, as a spider...

So, here's my question for the day... if all spiders know how to spin webs (and let's assume all do), why don't they consolidate their efforts, and some work on spinning webs, while others gather the prey? Why don't they work together?

Lace and silk from Metro Textiles

Pictured above, is a fabric combo on its way to becoming  something unique for me, inspired by a dream I had, an unrealized idea from a client I had last year, and the "Spiders Alive!" exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History.

A spider uses its own body measurements to make its web, using a very practical and ergonomic design process. The spider starts with the most difficult part of construction -- the first thread, and creates an extraordinary silken net, often as beautiful as it is functional. It is also abolutely unique and personal.

We work to create our own intricate handmade patterns, using yarn, strings or thread and fabric, and our own human hands. There is something very natural about this. Something very real and tactile... Individuality is important. Personal expression, the need to share beauty, and this sense of accomplishment are vital.

There is something so unique and special about a spider's own ergonomic study that leads him/her to design and create their own custom web; it speaks so beautifully to our unique desire to create beautifully customized garments and furnishings for ourselves. It explodes from our souls in even the most dismal of environments and circumstances. It is a necessary communication, and, as much as we need to create, the things we create NEED to be created.

I say this to reinforce the following point: There is only ONE you. If you are creative, honor that fact with what you create.  Listen to your body; the way it wants to feel, be embraced by wonderful colors, textures, and variety.  If you want to celebrate that in the ones you love, make things for them, too.


Ready, set...  

sew!

When a simple trip turns into an adventure!

It all started so sweetly...

An Australian reader of this blog came to New York during the last week of October, and was extremely enthusiastic about shopping in the garment district.  No stranger to New York City, she already had her favorite stores in mind, as well as her usual haunts, and very sweetly offered me the opportunity to meet with her for a bite to eat, share her insights as an international customer, and... well, get some additional shopping tips, too!

With the looming hurricane threat (no biggie, right?), and my own busy schedule, I wasn't able to make concrete immediate plans with her, but we were able to correspond via email, with a tentative plan to meet up on October 29th. No worries... we could always bring umbrellas, right? I gave her some "must sees" to add to her schedule, and she explored those stores happily, with plans to continue her Manhattan fabric shopping spree after the weekend.

I suggested she visit Fabrics and Fabrics, which she did... and has since (rightfully) scolded me for sending her into such a tempting fabric wonderland without adequate preparation... or a sedative, at least...

I quote her here...

"A couple of guys at Fabrics & Fabrics yesterday will attest to you that yesterday when I was in the store I could be heard saying several times over “Oh no! What has that women done to me!!” --- meaning you, of course.  Wow, what a store.  I spent hours there...looking, talking to (the proprietor), looking, buying... a lot... To add to the excitement, they were having a sale, with 40% off silks (squeal) and 35% off woollens (all other fabrics discounted as well).  I got silks yesterday and took swatches for woollens on the basis that I would think over the weekend, work out what could go in a suitcase and what I might need to post, get postal rates, then go back on Monday to do my wool purchasing."

You've noticed the timing here, didn't you?

Her original plan was to fly back to Australia on Tuesday the 30th.

Nope.

I thought maybe I could hop into Manhattan and meet with her post-Sandy.

Nope.  No subway.  No driving.  No gas.

We had planned via email to talk to each other on the phone. But after the storm roared through, even that wasn't possible.

The next time I ventured out, is the day I wandered aimlessly in my post hurricane daze.  Sadly, I received this email from her...

"Sorry we didn’t manage to catch up with each other and I’m especially mortified as I have just seen your latest post on  STGD and, I too was wandering around the garment district on Friday and we could have caught up with each other. 

There were big problems with the communications systems at the hotel last week.  Their phones were down for a couple of days and internet too, so while the phone lines were up again on Friday, I didn’t see emails again until Saturday…and then that was all in a rush as I was packing, checking out etc.  The phones were a real problem as I (along with most of the hotel) needed to call airlines and do all other things necessary to accommodate a delayed schedule."

Whatta shame.

What we did do, however, was have a really LOVELY, long  VOIP phone conversation after she returned to Australia, during which, she gave me amazing bits of information regarding her post Hurricane Sandy experience as an accidental long-term tourist here in New York City.  While this part of the story and her impressions of the experience could fill pages on their own, I'll stick to the fabric information for this post. Because she knows first-hand just how hard/impossible it is for her to find all of the wonderful things she found here in a heartbeat were she in Australia, and she seriously LONGS for better access, I feel I NEED to share this information with you.

And, who are YOU?

Some of you, although you may not comment publicly here, are store owners, fabric vendors, and other fashion professionals. Some of you are international shoppers and American shoppers who simply aren't close enough to shop here in person! Vendors, I know that opportunities abound for you among the enthusiastic international buyers, and if you can reach, serve, AND satisfy them,  it will be a mutually beneficial relationship!  For this post, I strongly encourage comments and dialogue.  Shoppers, let your voices be heard... and vendors, let the shoppers know how to find you!

So, this lovely Australian is a particularly business-savvy woman, who adores fabric and the creativity it inspires, and just thrives on the wonderful array of fabrics available here in the NYC garment district.  During our conversation, we discussed online fabric sources, which, while meant to be a great convenience, have more than a few significant issues to overcome.  Among them...

Photography:

High quality photographs whet the appetite for fabric, just as beautiful food photography does. If you can accurately convey its softness, drape, fuzziness, stretch, or sheen in a photo, the viewer can "feel" it, and will be more likely to buy.

Shipping:

Shipping fees, carriers and charges are of GREAT importance to international shoppers, and if the vendor is only willing to do what requires the least thought, without doing at least a small bit of research/fee comparison for the client, that client will not make the purchase.   It is important to understand that shipping fees exceeding or coming at all close to the price of the goods purchased, make a customer feel disrespected and unimportant, and makes the vendor look like he/she is not on the customer's side.


Customer Service:

This goes hand-in-hand with shipping.  The best online vendors have excellent customer service.  Even if sent in the form of a standard script, the answer to a customer who has not received his/her goods yet, or wonders about your shipping procedure should contain at least the following:

• We sent your package via _____ on ______(date)
• Please allow _____ days/weeks for it to arrive
• If it hasn't arrived by __________, please let us know.
• At that point, we will ____________ OR ___________.

Accurate Fabric descriptions and fiber content:

Fancy terms and words that make the client wonder will lose the sale for you.  It is great to give a fabric a fun name, but care instructions and real-life words, like cotton, silk, or wool, are more easily understood.

Some stores in the garment district sell online, and those that my client has used have big challenges in at least one of the above-mentioned areas. Keeping in mind that selling internationally opens up the world as potential competitors, it is an area where you really have to bring your "A" game if you want to compete.  But here's the thing; the quality and variety the stores offer right here, gives many of them an automatic advantage, as she was just floored by the options available to us right here!

The international (and long-distance shopper) is real.  And special. And, perhaps... an untapped market??? And a boost to business and the economy of the garment district and New York City.  They should all get one, great, big virtual HUG!

As always, I'd love to hear your thoughts....

The quest for pants...

On the recent "Speakeasy" tour, one of the journeys I noticed many in our group shared, was the quest for better pants.  Some are taking classes to learn better techniques, and some were looking for better fabrics. Some just needed some guidance to find the "right" fabric.

If you want to come on a Speakeasy tour, the next one happens pretty soon, so sign up!

Choosing the right fabric for your pants is very important.  You stress pants in ways that you don't challenge other garments.  When you sit for a time, you want your pants to be comfortable, and continue to look as good when you stand up again.  When you bend, make big movements, or walk, you don't want to need to "readjust", if you know what I mean.  Where they wrinkle, stretch, fade, and how well they'll launder are all things to consider as well.  The combined expertise of our group really helped the shoppers find what they wanted/needed.

There are plenty of places to buy great fabric for pants, but here are a few from my recent jaunts, where I have found places with great choices:

Classics:

Try Rosen and Chadick for wool, cotton twill, washed linen, corduroy.  Wool sateen makes particularly wonderful "dress up" pants.

Fun/Artistic/Colorful:

Try New York Elegant for exciting denims and great bottom-weight cottons (far back wall, kinda to your left).

Fashionistas:

Try Metro Textiles for great, affordable cotton twills... But get 'em now, because his inventory is ever-changing!

Try Fabrics & Fabrics for wonderful brocades.

Budget conscious/classic:

Try AK Fabrics for very affordable wools and poly-blends.

So, let's say you need some help making them.  Where to adjust, etc?  You can't find or buy this article anywhere (below), and it did appear in the Butterick Home Catalogue in the Fall of 1998, where I worked as an employee at the time. I just found my copy today, buried in a book I probably haven't opened in a year.  What is missing from the article, which I chose not to share, if the personal pant measurement chart.  Why didn't I share it? Because mine has my own measurements written in.  Here's what to record for your own chart:

Date: _____ (because you may need this later!)

Circumference measurements:

Waist ___
High Hip _____ (Measured ___" or cm down from waistline)
Full hip _____ (Measured ____" or cm down from waistline)
Thigh ____
Knee ____
Calf ____
Instep ____

Length Measurements:

Side length to floor ___
Side length to knee _____
Side length to calf ____
Crotch depth ______
Front crotch length _____
Back crotch length _____

If you have scoliosis, or any other left/right difference, take a left and right measurement for each affected area.  This may mean that you have to divide some circumference measurements into "left" and "right", and that if you are using a commercial pattern, you may need to make left and right versions or halves of pieces originally designed to be identical on each side. Make sense?

Let me know if you can't see these.  I have a hard time with pictures and scans... Note: I can read them on my screen, and I can drag and drop them to my own desktop and enlarge them.  Can you?

* I am sharing copywritten info here, giving full credit to the publisher, who has no copies available to share.  If anyone knows where a person can purchase or obtain a copy, feel free to let me know in the comments.

What happened to Lace Star????

I received a call from a professional dressmaker friend of mine, who had sent a particular client to Lace Star on 40th Street for inspiration and shopping, only to find that the store was no longer there! In this dismal economy, stores are shuttering faster than you can blink, and she was certain that this store had gone down the sudden, sad path that so many others have taken... that is, until she checked the internet, and discovered that they had moved!

Well, I was relieved to hear this, since they truly are a gem of a store, and I stopped in at the new location this week. On the third floor of a happy building on 38th Street, I stepped out of the elevator, made a quick left turn, and discovered... FABRIC WONDERLAND!



Okay folks, not only did they move... they have improved, expanded, and have the greatest, and most organized selection of delicious fabrics anyone could ask for! Take that, economy! They now have a new division/company, quite aptly named "Fabrics & Fabrics", which carries many new fabrics including brocades, cottons, silks, laces, woolens, velvets and more. The delightfully kind and polite salesperson, Rahman, was there to greet me and explain the selection and layout to me in such an incredibly patient way, that frankly, I wondered if I was still in New York City. Maybe I had taken the elevator straight to Oz (as in, the place where that famous wizard lives)?

There's space to move... to dance, even... which is exactly what you will want to do when you see all of the beautiful things they've got. This is definitely not another "more of the same stuff" store.

What appealed to me specifically, was a to-die-for beaded lace that was whispering my name softly from one of the shelves on my right. Apparently, Rahman heard it first, since he pointed it out to me, based on my loose description of what I was looking for.

I was also impressed by the lovely array of colors available in that elusive fabric, silk gazar. I love silk gazar for its sculptural quality, and just last year, was able to get up close and personal with a beautifully executed Valentino dress I was rearranging for a client which featured a silk gazar ruffled skirt, and inspired some design ideas of my own.




So, here's where you'll find them:

270 West 38th Street
3rd floor (between 7th & 8th Ave.)
And yes, they have a website.

And, correct me if you've had a different experience... they also have another fabric I love, but have trouble finding... cotton organdy! Call me old-fashioned, but what lovely, feminine dresses (for women and girls alike) can be made using the stuff!

Here's the deal. Daunted a bit by the prices, I did a bit of comparison shopping. On purpose. Looked in a few more stores to see what similar fabrics I could find. Guess what? Couldn't find comparable stuff. I had fallen in love with so many things, other stores felt like a let-down.

A little more eye-candy for ya... Is it for the bargain shopper? Nope, but you also won't keel over. You'll want to shop here mainly for your special occasion fabrics, but you will need quite a bit of time to commune with the aisles full of bolts, so plan to spend a good while there.

Lace Star is Looking for Salespeople

Lace Star, 215 West 40th Street

Lace Star is looking for salespeople who "know fashion fabrics." I got an email from the store manager saying they are having a hard time finding people who are qualified (what, you mean not everyone knows the difference between a brocade and a jacquard?). Contact Payam Hezghia, 212-840-0555, if you're interested.

Sale at Lace Star: 25%/40% Off Everything

Head over the Lace Star pronto (215 W. 40th St., NYC) if you want to catch the final days of their 25%/40-off sale. I popped in at lunch today and it was only because I exercised great restraint that I didn't walk out with anything. Brocades, laces, trims and anything with beading are 25% off; the rest of the store is 40% off. This means you can get silk charmeuse for around $10.80/yd and 4-ply silk around $23/yd. I don't think you can do better than that in the Garment District right now, so grab your shopping bag and get over there fast.

NYC Fabric Store Review: Lace Star

Address: 215 West 40th Street (opposite Paron's Fabrics), NYC, NY
Phone: 212-840-0555
Hours: Monday - Friday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; closed weekends
Online store: n/a
Best for: "Exclusive, one-of-a-kind, hand-beaded French laces, and embroidered fabrics," but they actually have a lot more of ladies-who-lunch type of fabrics, like bouclés, silks and brocades.

Lace Star on W. 40th in NYC is the place to go for special occasion fabrics. Or if you just want to make something drop-dead spectacular.

I've known for awhile that Lace Star is the go-to store in the Garment District if you need fabulous lace for special occasions. But it wasn't until Susan Khalje took me and my sewing classmates there on a field trip that I discovered Lace Star has much more beyond exquisite lace. There are bolts and bolts of wool bouclés, brocades, jacquards, silks and more. And it is all the most splendid stuff. Really top-rate, to-die-for designer fabrics.

I should warn you that this store is pricey. (And I've gotten reports that the sales staff is a little on the snooty side, although the woman who assisted us couldn't have been more helpful.) Most of the fabrics sell for more than $50 a yard, but I did see abundant bolts of silk charmeuse priced at $18 per yard. Keep in mind, however, that anything you make out of fabrics from Lace Star will look five times as expensive as what you actually paid.