Showing posts with label shoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shoes. Show all posts

Sunday, October 27, 2019

On shoemaking

*Originally published 1/16/17


Well, here we are. I am OBSESSED, and frankly, it is just an endless, bottomless, chasm.  Having said that, I can't really form this particular dispatch into one neat, cohesive post, so, please, my fellow mad creatives... please appreciate this weird romp along with me.  Where the heck do I begin?

Well, I found a book at the library on shoemaking.  Let me not forget to say, for the record, that I asked the woman at the information desk in the creative/art section of the library if they had any books on shoemaking, and she literally ROLLED HER EYES, as if that would be a ridiculous pursuit for ANYONE to embark upon.  She referred me to a section, not a BOOK, and I was eventually able to find, after diligent internet searching (on my own!), a book that they needed to retrieve from their basement!


click photo for Amazon link

And I have now studied almost every single word of it. I would like to own it, but, as you can see, if you click on the above link, it has a ridiculously high price on Amazon.  Truth be told, I'd spend less by pretending to lose it, and pay the library for it... hmmm...  I won't do that, though.  It would be dishonest. Darn it.

So... my fascination begins at the point that I really love unique shoes, have very few pairs (by choice!), but there are a million ideas in my head, so I want to experiment and explore.  After about two months of research and supply sourcing, I must say that one can learn the technical challenges and common techniques, but the rest, much like clothing making, is unique, sculptural and magical.

What I love the most, is that while watching a professional make a shoe using factory equipment and tools, finding creative ways to construct something like a carpenter would, using your hands, and carefully planned pieces, calling on your local shoemaker to do the soling part for you (toxic glue fumes, professional equipment) if you want to do something truly special, you discover that you can indeed create something lovely and lasting for yourself!

This video would be wildly ambitious for anyone who has never tried to sew sneakers before, but it is a great education in what all of the shaping and sewing entails.


I like to assemble failing things, toss them all, and replace them all at one time.  More practical than crazy, I would argue.

And here's another thing.  If you're anything like me, you long for some favorite pair of shoes that you had long ago, or are no longer made.  You can't duplicate them exactly without the tools and materials, but you can absolutely use them as inspiration!

Now, explaining how to make a pair of shoes is as complicated as trying  to tell someone how to make a dress.  There are endless levels of quality, complications, etc.

So, let's say you just want to do the sculpting and artistic side of things... you can leave the soling up to your local knowledgeable cobbler or shoe repair person!  If you want to do the soling yourself, you can buy soling sheets and cut them (try Manhattan Wardrobe Supply or Amazon), and/or you can buy pre-made soles, ready to glue.  You can also buy insoles, rather than make your own.  There are many options for comfort. Explore the options online, and you will find some great supplies to help get you to a beautiful result.

I was happy to learn about a great shoe supply resource (in Brooklyn), named Brooklyn Shoe Supply, and will visit once I have completed my first pair/several pairs, so that I will be able to proceed with a bit more confidence.

As for the drooling/shoe eye candy aspect of things, I made a Pinterest Page with ideas and inspiration, and I have watched some wonderful You Tube videos for ideas and thoughts. 

Wrap shoe.  Food for thought:




About ballet shoes (not because I dance, but informs my shoe thinking):






The video below begins the process of making a very basic ballet flat, but if you read the book I mentioned at the beginning of this post, you'll see what advice is given there, and you can improve on/deviate from the suggested methods given here, if you like.  No matter what you choose, it seems some trial and error/discovery will be necessary to your development.


Over the past few weeks, I have explored and learned a lot about fabric choices, leathers, dyes, closures, leather stackable heels, looked at shoes in museum exhibits...  I have DEVOURED every bit of information I have found inspiring, and cannot wait to use my hands to sculpt some shoes.  I will share results when appropriate!

Note: Now there is a shoemaking map on my maps page, if you'd like to know where to go!

Monday, February 13, 2017

Museum at FIT - Paris Refashioned 1957-1968





This weekend, I visited the Museum at FIT again... see my recent post for the other exhibit, currently on view.

This one was lovely, and definitely took a scholarly approach to what could have been a very standard subject matter.  We all understand the 1950's-60's "look", and, love it or hate it, we can identify it, whether we are of the era or not.  But there was a great deal of food for thought here...


  • Studying the demographics and appealing to the lifestyles of the actual women with the ability to spend.


  • The role of Paris in the international fashion scene.


  • The importance of youth and innovation as partners in propelling fashion forward.


  • Challenging tradition, new designers, collaborative work, and the importance of ready-to-wear at the dawning of a new age in the fashion system.





Just one of the many gorgeous and well-made ensembles on display.


Well worth seeing.


Wednesday, April 10, 2013

The Current Exhibits at FIT Museum


Yesterday, I stumbled into the Museum at FIT to see the "Shoe Obsession" exhibit.  I do not consider myself to be among the shoe "obsessed", but as a sculptural exhibit, wow was it beautifully curated, and definitely food for creative thought.  While one extraordinary pair of shoes relentlessly called my name, I wandered the room, listening to the conversations people were having.  Amid the gasps and purrs, I heard "You'd need to have  a big, strong man next to you to walk in those shoes."  and "No... no... you can't buy them.  We're just looking at them.  No, there is nothing to buy here!"

What did I learn?  Above all, shoemaking is an engineering challenge.  You have to understand the anatomy of the foot, the balance points, and the motion of walking, running, and standing to create a show that actually works.  To give it beauty, on top of all of that effort?  Now, that's a feat!

My advice is to watch the video upstairs before seeing the exhibit, because it will help you to think differently before you enter.  This is an exhibit you can appreciate just on its surface, as in "Oh, look!  Pretty shoes!", and well as "Whoa.  Maybe those aren't just expensive shoes after all... Maybe they are works of art."  Either way, great for your brain and heart. Oh, and your pocket.  You can't buy them! or even try them on!

Not in New York?  Watch the slideshow.  Wanna see it? It closes this weekend, so hurry up!

There's a book, too!




Then, I stumbled upstairs to take a peek at the Fashion and Technology exhibit.  The name of this exhibit didn't inspire me, but I just thought I'd check it out.  And wow... Wow.  What I saw, was an amazingly well curated and explained collection of inspiration, design "magic", and innovation, that I was totally blown away.  Can't get to NYC?  See the the online version.

Fashion "will renew itself through technology, new fibers, new ways of making clothes.  Without risk, nothing changes the world."

-Ariele Elia and Emma McClendon, curators.

"Bravo!"

-Me

Every single time I decide that fashion is frivolous, silly, and I need to think about other things, I am re-energized by this amazing museum.  I think about how many exhibits there have just moved me practically to tears, and I am just thankful that they exist, educate, and remind me of the importance of this art form. I'm in.  Yes, I'm still in.

Friday, February 8, 2013

After the DG Expo...

Frankly, the biggest surprise that came out of my trip to the DG Expo this week, was how affordable so many of the wonderful things I discovered are!  And the low minimums are surprisingly manageable!  And the prices were generally awesome! My big revelation, after meeting, greeting, and viewing all of these fabulous fabrics and notions, was simply this: There is more fascinating stuff out there than you can possibly imagine.  There were many vendors located elsewhere in the country, but many of them also have representatives right here in Manhattan.  Some were in Manhattan, and some have taken a recent jump over to Jersey, but are still very quickly commutable.  True to the title of this blog, I will direct you to the garment district companies on this blog, while my dressmaking Facebook page will feature some of the others.

I'll be gentle with you, featuring one business at a time, mentioning the ones who made the biggest impression on me, and had the most interesting offerings. I am particularly excited about sharing with you, the stuff I didn't think I could find at the retail or low minimum level.  I am extremely jazzed about that!

And while I'm rambling...

Oh, and have any of you seen the shoe exhibit yet - well, today is your first opportunity, I guess! Apparently between 12-3 only!  If you see it today, you are a rock star, to be sure, and tell me, tell me all about it!  I'm in blizzard mode, and can't/won't go anywhere today!

And folks, if I can just give a bratty "Told ya so" for a moment, there is a good reason why I scheduled no Speakeasy tours for February.  See what a Fashion Week rescheduling mess this blizzard is causing?  Hmph... think I'll make a cup of tea now.

Monday, January 28, 2013

Shoe Obsession at FIT


I love looking at fun shoes, and happened across this blog tonight, which showcases some particularly fun ones.  Do you appreciate sculptural shoes as well?  Well, you're in luck... because...

Very soon, it will be time for what promises to be another great exhibit at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology.  If you haven't heard, the Shoe Obsession exhibit will be opening on February 8, 2013, and will continue until April 13, 2013.  Shoe obsessed or not, the sculptural masterpieces offered in the press release are enough to make you swoon.

Featuring nearly 150 examples of footwear, crafted by company names you know and avant garde names you likely have yet to explore, the exhibit will be accompanied by a book. The book, also titled Shoe Obsession, is full of photographs for you to keep in your personal inspiration/dream corner.  All royalties from sales of the book will benefit the school.

Admission to the museum is free and open to the public Tuesday-Friday, noon-8pm, and Saturday 10am-5pm.

Can't get there?  No worries, you can always come a bit later for another exciting event - the Boots exhibit March 5- April 26, 2013!

The Museum at FIT 
Seventh Avenue at 27th Street New York, New York 10001-5992 
24-Hour Exhibition Information Line is 212 217.4558. 



So, let's say you see the exhibit, get all excited and curious about making your own shoes?  You can enroll in a shoemaking course at the Manhattan JCC, where they do some AMAZING stuff.  Follow this link to read all about it.

Or maybe you're a designer, or an aspiring shoe designer, with some pretty exciting ideas of your own, but lack the tools and skills to bring them to life.  If your pockets are sufficiently deep, you can have shoes custom made for you, by a brilliant custom shoemaker located just around the corner from FIT, who can literally do just about anything!

(Psst... If you want to find more fun places to go in the garment district, sharing the creative energy of a group, come along on a Speakeasy tour.)