A Working Title

A few weeks ago, I spent a full week just thinking about the right buttons for a project, and then, a few days later, I spent full day on a hem.  

Really.

A hem.

*Ahem...

Not a huge, horsehair reinforced bridal hem, or a hand-rolled chiffon baby hem (which would explain that amount of time).  

No.

It is the hem of a relatively simple self-drafted blouse I started conceiving last year.  And this blouse isn't even for me.  It is part of an ensemble for an endlessly patient recipient, who knows I have been fighting through a professional and creative block for quite some time now.  Thank God I've known her all my life, so she understands, but of course, not fully... or she would tell me to just drop it, if it's too hard to complete.  She would just die if she knew how many hours in I am at this point. Frankly, I would refuse to drop it, anyway.

There are times when my hands simply won't move.  Times when turning on the sewing machine requires excessive preparation for me.  A deep internal pep talk, then deciding that I need a proper and wildly elaborate breakfast that includes a trip to the grocery store, then spending far too long scrubbing some unknown stain off of something that I've decided simply can't wait, all in an endless attempt to shut off the noise in my head so I can begin.  While my practical tasks are positively ON FIRE right now, many days, even that creative "beginning" never starts.

My brain is alive with far too many ideas right now.  I feel that I run the risk of exploding if I don't release them.   And this post is part of my exercise to find that release.  I am determined to find that release. My projects following this one are all lined up and ready to go, but somehow, the needle doesn't get threaded.  The scissors don't get touched. I have been wildly creative in our kitchen (and wow, has THAT been fun, and yummy...) and I've been intensely present and engaged for the Speakeasy tours, as well as in my writing, business life, sketching, pattern-making and conceiving.  My output has been enormous, but not my sewing output, the physical DOING of it, which feels like a clogged pipe. 

I know that this particular ensemble I'm making is uniquely beautiful.  It will be something really definitive in my life as a person who makes special articles of clothing. In fact, I am certain this particular ensemble is important work. My heart sighs as I see it develop.  I know I will feel as if I am parting with my firstborn when I turn it over to its owner.  I have to admit, I don't actually WANT to turn it over. I also know that if I were to keep it (in my size, of course) , it would simply hang in my closet, waiting for that occasion that never comes... and I do wish I could keep it for myself, but it really is specifically hers and only hers.  It looks like her.  It totally came alive on her in the fittings.  And yet, I'm fighting with my own hands to complete it. Every day, I swear to myself I'm almost finished, yet every day, I am not.  Sewing/creating/designing has long been my meditation and my joy, and the motivation to complete a project comes from something that isn't money or fear of the consequences of having an angry client, or any of the things that I would hope could just force me into action.  It comes from somewhere I can't even identify.  I've always been desperate not to become a temperamental artist-type, yet I'm scared that is exactly what I've become.

While I don't compare my talent to his, Charles James was rumored to have been difficult to rely on for completion of a garment.  While I do not use this information as an excuse to endlessly fuss over the details of a garment, I can certainly take comfort in the idea that there was at least one other person who could become obsessed with the minutiae and refuse to let go until satisfied with a garment's completion.  I will assume he often had to stop and wait for the creative muse to appear.

Creative people can often find themselves blocked.

I've been looking at other sources for creative inspiration, and the things I've found that resonate all seem to be shouting the same message to me right now.

A writer must write, a creator must create, and a craftsperson/designer must make/craft/design.  There is no other way.  Late last year, I tried to turn off my creative side, listen to my practical side, fall in line, and just march...  I thought I could do that.  Just to get a regular paycheck.  I was willing to just put on earplugs and march.  I sincerely was.  What I discovered, however, is that sometimes your ears have tuned into a certain frequency that is only your own, and your brain won't let you hear but one drummer.

I am no longer endlessly meandering down a creative path.  I can see that I am truly wed to a creative life, and I am finding my way.  The static on my internal radio will clear.  The cover of my own book is still a bit fuzzy, and I am squinting to make out the words. Now, my hands have to be on board too, please...

Some years ago, I had a wonderful client who commissioned me to make 4 jackets.  We had an instant rapport, and became actual friends throughout the process of our designing and finding textures and fabrics together.  Her classically English husband was an incredible motivator to me, keeping me on top of my game, as he would review the items, gently fondle the soft roll of her lapels, and offer his quiet approval as I shaped the cuffs, sleeves, and length of her jackets.  The garments were visually beautiful, but of course now, as I've matured in my craft, I can think of about a million ways I would/could have technically improved them, if I had the chance to reproduce them now.  She was an Academy Award winning movie maker/writer/producer, and we truly had a sincere respect for each other's talents.  I once asked her how she makes movies.  What an enormous undertaking. Does she see the movie in her head, or does she just start writing?  How does it all come together?  "Well, you do start with the writing, of course... " she said.  "But, above all else, you have to have a working title."

I guess that's not unlike anything, huh?  A garment, a career, a life plan... "a working title" is necessary.  I can't wait for the day my hands start responding.  I have to practice moving my hands until they can find pick up the rhythm again.  Starting RIGHT NOW.  And yes, I have already pushed the power button on my machine.

Now, if you'll excuse me...

So, what did we learn on yesterday's Speakeasy?

When it comes to Speakeasies, I'm always surprised at how a tour is ALWAYS  far more than JUST a tour.  

Yesterday was truly filled with great interaction, fun-loving, truly inspired and inspiring tour participants, and a great learning trip for all of us.  I had asked the participants in advance what they were looking for and curated the locations before our outing to match their specific needs.  I also took them to peek into and explore places that our conversations inspired along the way. We had a long, productive outing, and I think I learned as much creative and non-creative information from them, as they learned about the choices the garment district offers from me!

The specifics of the trip were specific to our group, and, while I could tell you where we went and why, the specifics are simply too specific, and the stories too unique to share in a way that will serve a wider audience.  This was truly a custom speakeasy for an intimate group, who really enjoyed themselves!

In fact (full disclosure), I have written and erased maybe three paragraphs while writing this simple post.  Either it is short and sweet, or an entire novel!

For the women who were with me yesterday, I offer my sincere thanks for a great day... My brain is still marinating in the inspiration and thought-provoking conversations/ideas we shared yesterday! From ice skating to summer camp, to bags and beads and buttons, to life/creativity/employment in other countries, to lynda.com, to cotton sateen and eyelet, to the "secret" to traveling from NJ, to the work/life balance, to ... well, on and on and on.... I really enjoyed your company, ladies!

Sometimes you have to walk away... Sometimes you need help... Sometimes you have to know what questions to ask before you can find the answers...

Glorious woolens - I'll show you where! (Or you may already know...)

This post was inspired by a recent private tour I did with a client.  I love to help people navigate and shop the garment district, and often help to teach them the garment district culture, so they know how to operate to get what they need.  Since the readers of this blog are both shoppers and proprietors of businesses in the district, I cannot share some some of the specifics with you here (I'd have to whisper... and you're not within earshot), but here is some food for thought. Some of you know many of these answers already, and believe me, it would be nothing but helpful for you to comment publicly below if you are so inclined... but I will also comment when I feel an answer is specifically incorrect and/or incomplete.

So... let's say...

You've found a great fabric for your project.  You need 3 and 1/2 yards of it.  When the sales assistant unrolls the fabric, you see that there are three full yards, and a 3/4 yard piece of it, perhaps with a jagged swatch cut from one corner.  Do you buy it anyway?  How much of it do you buy? What should the vendor offer you (if anything) as an incentive for you to buy it?  What factors do you need to consider?  What question(s) should you ask?

You see a fabric you love, and you are thinking of buying it.  You ask for the price.  The vendor asks how much you want to buy.  What is your answer?

You see a fabric you want to buy.  You ask for the price.  The vendor hesitates, and then gives a number.  What question do you ask next?  How would you get a sense if the price quoted is fair?

You are thinking of starting a line, or producing something in significant quantity.  You want to find the right vendors for your supplies.  Where should you start?  Do you go to your favorite fabric store? Do you go to the Fashion Kiosk? Why, or why not?

You want a reversible invisible zipper.  Does it exist?
You want a two way invisible zipper.  Does that exist?
You need bra cups for an evening gown.  You are between a C and a D cup.  Do you buy the cup that may be a bit too large, or a bit too small?  Why?

You need buttonholes made.  How do you mark them?  Is there a correct method to get the results you need?  What are your options?

Where can I get handbag hardware?  Once I get it, will I be able to actually make a bag on my own?

Why aren't the answers to these questions listed above?

This marks 31 years that I've been shopping in the district  - and yes, I've been sewing and shopping here since I was a child (not joking), and I've learned a great deal.  It is my goal to help you learn a great deal, too! Click here to book a private tour, get a map, or or come on a Speakeasy, and I'll help you learn what you need to know!


  

Fabrics & Fabrics (and fabrics, and fabrics, and fabrics, and... you get the idea)

Now I'm in creative overdrive...

I ventured into Fabrics & Fabrics on a whim yesterday, feeling a bit nervous, knowing I would be tempted beyond my comfort level... And I was right.  While I could have taken hundreds of photos of things I love, I narrowed down my desire to plan for just these few additions to my Late Summer/Fall/Winter plans.  Here's what I found, and what I think know what these fabrics are saying to me specifically...

That store lures me into a fabric-lovin' trance.  The staff is patient, knowledgeable and friendly, the layout is roomy and exceptional... with perfect lighting and organization.  You just can't beat that.

Really F&F, really?  Surely, you are trying to seduce me. Beautiful, creamy white cashmere just beckoned...

...to be another Miyake coat, but this time, with black leather edging, and black leather buttons.

This wonderfully soft stretch knit with eyelet "stripes"

No inspiration photo exists to convey my dream here, as it only exists in my head, but a roomy, bias cut short dress with a drawstring waist and a center front seam, creating a chevron effect, which has to be worn over a snug-fitting singlet dress for modesty.  (That's right, I said "singlet".)  The singlet would double as workout gear or exertion wear (when worn with a loose T-shirt or tank - I'm not crazy!) for the rest of its lifespan in my wardrobe.

And an endless dreamy cluster of roses...

This pattern doesn't wanna be interrupted.  A long, straight duster style jacket, impeccably fitted and deliberately edged - to be worn over all black or all grey.

When good corduroy goes "plaid"

This corduroy has its plaid print on the bias, making for some interesting possibilities.  And yes, it calls out to be a jumper - can't help it.  It just is.  They may not be "in style", and maybe they are kinda for kids, but this one would be just for me! No apologies.

This photo is from Etsy, and is exactly the shape and idea this fabric wants to be...

A poet's garden

I generally hate... never mind, no, wait, that is EXACTLY right word - HATE poet's shirts, but this fabric calls out for it.  I see white eyelets, laced strings, a delicate placket that stops at bust apex level, roomy, but not "puffy" sleeves, slits at side seams to about 3" above hip level... lemme catch a breeze, and it will just be heavenly, won't it?

But denim's not tired of me...

I'm kinda sick of denim, so I like it when it kinda goes "just wrong enough".  Know what I mean? This denim is right on the edge of love/hate for me, in a way that would let me take it in a wild direction.  That brown flower tells me that this denim wants to hang somewhere.  Maybe not on a body... It should be part of a window treatment, with a brown leather flower crafted by Schmalberg and studs/rivets by Star Snaps involved somehow.

Grey flannel - hand me a pocket square... a red one.

Grey Flannel really says "man" to me.  I also feel that it calls out for a red pocket square.  I'd make a tailored "husband" jacket for me, and add a red pocket square... or, to glam things up, or perhaps a sparkly red boutonniere, crafted by Schmalberg

Embroider my poodle

Cozy and sweet, this "poodle-esque" wool fabric needs to be the simplest of simple cardigan style jackets, worn over a wispy deeper pink/lavender cowl-necked  all purpose top.

Feeling so reptilian...

This fabric has "rock star" written all over it.  Or for me... Saturdays. 

I just happen to really like Saturdays.

Okay, so this dream needs feathers.  Deep green and/or black ones. I'd have to go to Dersh to make that happen.  Plus this wild eyelash fabric I found on a recent trip to Leather Suede Skins for the collar. No picture exists, because its still in my head.

You know what they say... Talk is cheap. 

Okay, so now... let's make some fun stuff!

Jonathan Embroidery - Where'd ya go?

Walking along 38th Street today, I stumbled past the address of Jonathan Embroidery, but...

something felt different.

Three of us, strangers to each other, but district regulars, apparently, all did the same double-take before turning around and doubling back to see what was going on.  

Was Jonathan Embroidery gone?

What was once a front crowded window, full of embellished, sparkly things, labels, patches, etc., looked like one large window, with only one entrance to the brightly lit full space, with today's bright sunlight creating a powerful glare.  Were they clearing out?

On the sidewalk in front of the door, a small sign with orange lettering and a few small arrows, indicating Jonathan Embroidery is still inside!

Upon entering the space, you will see that the left side of the store is still going strong, with a long line of people with  buttonhole and other specialty requests in their usual position.  It seemed the merchandise wall was much leaner.  I know the front window had been cleared out entirely.

Looks like a renovation, or possibly an expansion(?), but the few staffers on hand were too busy for questions.  I breathed a sigh of relief, and moved on... 

Archer Zippers - Where'd ya go?

While in the garment district today, I wanted to check in on Archer Zippers.  Guess what?  Gone.  Checked phone #, no answer.  Looked up website. Nothing.  Looks like they're gone.  If you know something different, let me know!

DIY vs. "DIFM"

C'mon...

There's no shame in it.  

You have fallen in love with an idea for a project.  You've imagined it, you know what you want the fabric to look like, feel like... You  know how you want the finished product to hang, to flutter in the breeze, to hug, to mold...

You just don't have the time/energy/skill to make it all happen.

"I wanna take a class!" you say.  You peruse the offerings of sewing schools, colleges, fashion schools and universities.  You ask friends who do amazing work if they will teach you.  Sure, on one of those leisurely Saturdays you so often spend lazing around in your spotlessly organized home, with kids, spouses and others so engaged in their own lives, who'll miss you for a couple of hours?  Yes, your copious amounts of free time should be spent learning to bead/embroider/knit/design/drape/smock/dye/applique.  And, if you're diligent, it should only be a decade or two or three before you're really good at it.

My own hand beaded fagotting, cut away from a blouse I made about 15 years ago... I loved it so, but Man, was that time consuming!

OR....

You can go to an professional, who will do the things that would take too long to do, that you haven't learned to do, or don't have the equipment to do properly.

A velvet covered button I had made at B&T Buttons.  I could never achieve this smooth, professional quality on my own - and I didn't have to try!

A grommet I had applied for me at Star Snaps for my cradle bag.

I love the DIY movement.  I also love the spirit of the Quilting Bee, DIO (Do It Ourselves).... but I'm also becoming a HUGE fan of DIFM (Do It For Me) projects, as well.  My creative brain is endlessly swirling with ideas that may never come to fruition without some very specific help.

I have long suffered the curse of trying to figure out how to make something look great while I "figure out" how to do it on my own. Mining the resources of the garment district has really helped me finish many "unfinishables" or long-languishing projects.  

Believe me, though... my stash is still pretty large, and I've got a long way to go before all of the dreams piled in those boxes, bags and hangers are realized!

Here's a quick resource list  of things you can have done for you, saving you time, and elevating the quality of your projects:

Custom Fabric Flowers (a place you've truly gotta see to believe)
Pleating
Zippers cut to size
Covered buttons
Snaps, studs, etc.
Grommets
Feather steaming, shaping, sculpting, applying
Embroidery, beading
Fabric printing
Smocking, tucking, general fabric manipulation

In a nutshell, stop kidding yourself... either go learn, do, and dedicate yourself to getting things finished, or pay someone who can.  I am following my own advice, and I have work to do at this very moment.

Ok - now that you understand your mission...

Check out the upcoming Speakeasies, and get inspired!