Ancient inspiration

Note: The brick and mortar City Quilter has since closed...

I'm creating a garment that has no closures.  No buttons, no zips, and no fiddly mechanisms to manipulate. A garment designed and decorated with an appreciation for the people who will see it. Simple in structure, that can be passed down through generations. A garment that can be disassembled and reassembled for special laundering or repair, if desired, that can conform to a variety of body shapes. That can be equally elegant in "thin" or "fat" times... A garment that respects the body movements of the wearer, and offers some versatility regarding how it may be worn...

Oh wait, that already exists.  It is called the kimono. Incredibly practical.  Timeless in its beauty.  Insanely forgiving.

We are in a kimono phase right now in fashion, if you haven't noticed.  Google it, and you will see, fashion is all about the kimono right now. To make one, you need to know how to do it, but you do not need to know how to fit or alter, since the kimono requires neither.

If an American equivalent of the kimono were to exist, what would it look like?

Well, the fabric has to last.  Both the color(s) and the fabric itself need to endure.

My latest appreciation is for "yukata" cotton.  I was gifted this lovely piece of fabric by a friend of mine, who attended a Okan Arts trunk show at City Quilter.

To use it, I thought... I'll need to know what the characters mean, and which way is right side up and what is upside down...

So I asked my best friend to ask her dad to tell me what the fabric said.  And in his extremely thorough, wonderful way, he shared this...

From dad:

It is read "dai-naru-to" or "oh-naruto" in Japanese.   It means "great tidal whirl pool".大, dai = big.       ( 鳴, naru = ringing     戸, to = door. )鳴戶, naruto = 1. The eddy or whirlpool and its sound caused by the strong low tide and high                            tide hitting each other.                        2. (Not in this case)  The semicircular fish past on a wooden plate, kamaboko,                             which is rolled up white fish past and red fish past. When it is cross cut, the                             Intersection will show white and red whirl pool like a roll cake.                         3. A city at the north-east corner of Shikoku Island, facing Kobe and Osaka.                             A big bridge, "Oh-naruto bridge" connects it with the main island of Japan via                             an Island named Awaji-shima in between.Hence, Dainaruto or Oh-naruto may refer to the famous noisy great tidal eddy.Many tourists just go to the Oh-naruto Bridge, get off their vehicles, wait and watch the great tidal while pool.
Please note that the printed words on the top is looked from front, while the lower one is looked from back side.
By the way, do you know "yukata" means "bathing wear", by its words?However, in real life, it is evening wear, for both staying at home, or for out-going, or visiting, especially it is very comfortable during hot and muggy summer evening.
Is she going to make a yukata for herself?  If so, please remind her when she wears kimono, the right piece must be under the right piece.  Men and women wear kimono in the same way.Only the shrouds are worn left piece under right piece, men or women.  Some movies made in Taiwan once caused big laughter in Japan years ago, just because the female star was wearing kimono with the left piece close to her body under the right side, just like she wore Western style dress.

What a wonderful guy.  I love when people take this kind of time to explain.

Is imitation the sincerest form...? (A pleating story, primarily)

This is an older story, but now, we are approaching appropriate weather for my creation, so I submit it to you, dear readers.

Once upon a time, I fell in love with the dress pictured above, and asked the folks at International Pleating if they could pleat some fabric for me to execute my own dress, inspired by this design. Click the link for the beautiful story of this historic family business.  Click this link, and this one, to see some work they have done for me, personally. This time, I wanted to do EXACTLY the white dress pictured above.  I was sure of it. That was actually more than a year ago... but I haven't reported on this project until now.

Back then, I went searching for fabric to make EXACTLY that dress in my own color choice, and found this combo - both purchased from Metro Textiles:

So, International Pleating pleated the brown silk on the cross-grain, turning it into something so texturally beautiful and graceful, I was almost afraid to cut into it. It started to whisper to me that it wanted to be something else.

Pleated charmeuse fabric, after sitting, untouched and rolled for a few months...

I steamed it a bit to get the little "kinks" out, and the fabric obeyed beautifully. I was ready to cut.

And cut it, I did.  

On the dress form, I shaped the lace portion of the dress differently, and created the beginnings of something that looked lovely on a dress form, but pretty awful on me. Note: the above dress design REALLY exaggerates a large bosom, and kinda makes you look like a kid.  Patent leather tap shoes and an oversized lollipop would complete the Shirley Temple look it gave me.  Basically, I wouldn't suggest it, unless that's what you're going for...

So, after a few other permutations, sighing, pacing, thinking, putting it away and taking out, etc., I sculpted a patternless top that I probably manipulated several hundred times in my head, on the dress form, and on my own body before it sang to me.

And sing to me, it did.

From the back, which is nearly identical to the front...

My husband loves the deep brown color, as do I... it works well on brown skin. The horizontal back seam was subsequently flattened by being very narrowly serged and pressed upward to the lace side, so it has a bit of a "shadow" at the edge of the seam, which is fine, in my opinion.  The top has lace extends beyond the shoulder, and curves at the at the cap to create a graceful bit of a sleeve. The top hangs to the hipline, and is extremely lightweight.  *Can only be worn with a strapless bra beneath.

So did I copy the dress?  No, I made a blouse.  I just kept the lace shouldered/pleats below inspiration.

Funny that I should EVER want to copy anything exactly, with all the possibilities that exist out there in the world.  After all, what would the point be, really? We've all read about Target copying that boring  t-shirt, when there is simply an unfathomable number of ways to decorate the blank canvas of a T-shirt! Why bother, Target?

On the process:

Because I appreciate the beauty of the pleating so much, I didn't want to interfere with, or complicate, the design.  The blouse is simply two rectangles for the body, and two rectangles for the neckline/sleeve.  Important to know: how to sew seams in pleated fabric so the seams are invisible in the texture of the pleating, and how to hem pleated fabric, if desired.  You can hem fabric before pleating, or use the selvedge edge, or hem the fabric yourself, and appreciate the "lettuce" effect it causes.  International Pleating will walk you through these considerations.  

Is this affordable?

Yes.  In fact, astoundingly so, in my opinion.

On Being original:

Is imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, or is using the art of others as inspiration an even more sincere form? When tempted to copy something you've seen exactly, (which usually comes with some inexplicable feeling of disappointment, somehow) it may be good to question whether you just too scared to leap into your own imagination.  These are some thoughts to ponder on your creative journey...


Side notes:

And when it comes to artistic pursuits, is anyone noticing the rush of sound-alike music playing everywhere lately?

Pharrell Blurred Lines Controversy

Usher She Came to Give it to You vs. Just be Good to Me by the SOS Band

Ed Sheeran Thinking Out Loud vs. Marvin Gaye Let's Get it On

Sam Smith's Stay with Me vs. Tome Petty's Won't Back Down

When it comes to the Garment District specifically, though...

Wanna take a tour?  Click the link to see dates and options.

Short on time in the district? Want a shorter, lower priced trip? Click here for another option.

Wanna go shopping for free? MPB Day  Peter of Male Pattern Boldness always hosts great  shopping parties!

Need more garment district services? There are many...

NY Embroidery Studio
First2Print
Star Snaps
Quick Fusing
Botani
Jonathan Embroidery
Steinlauf & Stoller
Westpfal (scissor sharpening)
City Sewing

So no, don't imitate anything exactly.  Do your own version of what you do, using whatever makes your interpretation special!  There are so many ways to do things, taking details to twist and turn and change, and it is great to make your own statement, whether the the people you encounter "appreciate" your version or not!

As always, there is just so much more to say... and I'll share more later!

Springtime/summertime has come again... The weather won't decide... but that's okay.

And I am wildly inspired by this video fashion show. I love the simplicity and old-fashioned-ness of this collection, and just how sweet, classic, and timeless it is.

Having said that, though, it isn't the way I dress, but it exudes a peaceful beauty that I truly appreciate.

A Teen's Perspective - I don't want holes in my jeans... And actually, now that I think about it...

"...I don't want jeans at all."

"What do you mean?  What would you wear instead? Don't you NEED jeans?" My 13 year old seemed nervous about this announcement.

"They're useful, sure... but they aren't making them for durability and/or function right now.  And what they are offering as fashionable, is too temporary, and stuff I don't like for myself.  Well, not today, anyway."

This photo was taken in a DRESSING ROOM of a store I was in recently.  These are NEW jeans. I feel old saying that, but man, I have jeans that look just like these from natural wear and tear...

"So, what would you wear instead?"

"Do you know what I mean when I say 'artificial obsolescence'?" I asked, as she climbed into bed for the night.

"I think so... Like when some business wants to convince you that something is outta style so you'll buy all new stuff?"

"Well, yes..." I replied.  "Here's why it's important to recognize that. Trends will continue to come and go. You don't have to pay attention to them at all. You can have your own sense of style, and never worry about whether or not it is IN STYLE or not.  It's YOUR style."

I'm decluttering my fashion ideas.

Much like Marie Kando's book, which is the current mega-popular choice for anyone trying to declutter with a system of rolling your clothes, making categories of tasks, and buying organizational systems and tools, when you could simply just decide to have less, but useful stuff. (Not that I'm any better at that than anyone else.) Personally, I think if you can clear the mess in your head, you can clear the mess in your home. As I sit here writing, the look of the area surrounding my creative work space completely contradicts what I am saying right now.  But, believe me, that won't continue to be the case...

Right?

Every time I look up at any type of advertising lately, someone is screaming about a sale. A sale is always trying to convince you of artificial scarcity. Time, money, products... Don't miss out!

Ads and magazines screaming about fashion trends? Artificial obsolescence. You're not cool enough!

My kid?  A real person. With a real life. Let's try to protect her from all that superficial stuff as much as we can.

"What do you wanna wear to your prom, Sweetie?"

Note: Why they have proms for 8th graders is just beyond me.

"Hmmph..." (shoulder shrug) "I dunno.  I don't really care." 

Guess what?  She doesn't.  End of conversation.

I'm currently in a highly creative mode, making things all the time.  I'll be showing them when they are both finished to my satisfaction and ready to be shown. Will I rush?  Nope.

So, coming soon, I will show you some of the things I've been working on, and what they required from the garment district or related services. This is gonna sound like a quirky, weird/boring list, but my daughter was in on all of them.  In ways you won't expect.  Stay tuned for...

Ball of yarn
Bamboo fabric
Stumpwork embroidery
Shisha mirrors
Washability
"Twirling"

I'll show you pieces as they are ready to show themselves.

Ever think about how weird it is... ?

Up next... a story explaining this picture...

...that in our beloved NYC, we can explore so many fabric and notions stores, stacked to the rafters with creative tools, supplies, and services, simply extract our sliver of inspiration from that abundant mess of choices, and take it all to your home/studio to create something unique with your own hands? 

I fear that this is unsustainable.

Over the holiday weekend, at a family cookout, we were lamenting the loss of a big Barnes & Noble bookstore  in our area, when I stopped to ask, "Now wait, when is the last time any of you bought something there?"   We all want to browse endlessly, and despite all of the reading I do, I hardly EVER actually SHOP in a Barnes & Noble.  And, really, as much as I love books, if even I'm not a reliable customer for them... really, who is?

So, with that, I say... if we don't shop and create and do, why should we expect this overflowing abundance of fabric stores to remain? 

Here's what we can do:

Visit Save the Garment Center  and follow at LEAST one of the suggestions, many of which are practically free...

Make something, or teach a class of your own.  When someone asks you "What Do You Do?", tell them the important and creative stuff, and follow up with "Why Do You Ask?"  Then, make sure you watch this wonderfully inspiring talk and creative sermon of sorts, given by the great founder and leader of Creative Mornings. 

In fact, I have already posted about Creative Mornings in two past blog posts, which you may remember, if you have read them (links below).

Related posts:

How I won the lottery... and asked about buttonholes

A Welcome Bear Hug from Someone I've Never Met Before

Planning your own garment district tour

*Reposted and updated*

Anyone can take you on a shopping trip.  Let's face it; a basic tour... "Here's a store! Let's go inside!" - That doesn't take much skill or knowledge.

Here's the thing.  Since I am in the district all the time, talking to store owners, looking at what's new, and discovering what's special, I curate a really useful selection of stores, respecting your time, their businesses, and recognizing their ability to cut special deals when appropriate. There are more stores than most people have time to explore, and while some of them are otherwise invisible, talk to enough people and you can find any of them... eventually. Below, I am offering a list of some stores for those of you who would prefer to organize your own explorations.  I made this list in 2012, and while much of it has changed, much of it hasn't...

Let's say you are in New York City for a week. Or a day.  Or a few hours.  Or even a few minutes... You may read this blog, and get jazzed by the descriptions of a variety of stores, but which ones do you visit?  Well, that depends on what you want to make.  Are you easily overwhelmed by too many stores and choices?  Are you on a budget? What season is it?  Do you know what you need, or do you need input and encouragement?

You can always plan to come with me on a guided tour.  My September 28th tour is full, but there are still plenty of spaces open for the November 2 tour (this was a long time ago...).  If you like the fun and support of shopping in a group, with an organized plan, discounts, and lunch, come with me!  Even if a guided tour is not your cup of tea,  keep reading...

With full awareness that I have been walking the district for years, and have grown very comfortable with these stores, I know that it remains a mystery and a maze for many others, and non-professionals are often intimidated by the frantic, constant hustle-bustle of the area. For shopping on your own, this blog gives you plenty of reviews and ideas for places to go, so I'll organize some choices for you, to make planning a little easier.  Of course, there are many more, but this will get your feet wet.  Click through the links for all details on any of these stores.

For the designer/fashionista type:

New York Elegant Fabrics
Paron
Fabrics & Fabrics (new, expanded Lace Star)
B&J 
Mood
Metro Textiles

For the crafter/accessory/home dec maker type:

New York Elegant (upstairs)
Leather Suede Skins
Leather Impact
Day to Day Fabrics
Botani
Pacific Trimming
Mokuba
Daytona
Beads World
Mood

Printed cottons:

Material World (window - front of store - Alexander Henry prints)
Rosen and Chadick (window)
NY Elegant (center aisle)

Shirtings:

Rosen and Chadick
New York Elegant

High quality, Classic fabrics:

Rosen & Chadick
B&J
Elliott Berman


For the Explorer/Adventurer/Bargain Hunter:

Truemart
Metro Textiles
Its a Material World


Formal/Bridal:

Sposabella
C&J
Fabrics & Fabrics
B&J

Costume:

Fabrics World
Spandex House
New York Elegant
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply
Dersh Feathers
M&J Trimming


Swim/Lingerie, Dance, Sport and Stretch:

Spandex House
Spandex World
Fabrics World

Notions and equipment:

Steinlauf & Stoller
SIL Thread
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply
Daytona
Panda

Buttons:

Pacific Trimming
M&J Trimming
Tender Buttons (not in the garment district, but not to be missed!)

Zippers:

SIL Thread
Steinlauf & Stoller
Daytona
Pacific
Panda
Botani

Patterns and books:

Paron
Daytona (very small, very haphazard selection)
Fashion Design Bookstore
Butterick (order online)
Onion (order online)
McCalls (order online)
Vogue (order inline)
Simplicity (order online)
Burda (order online/buy publication)
Folkwear (order online)
Vintage and Old Patterns (order online)
Vintage Pattern Lending Library (order online)


Linings:

Guide Fabrics

Services:

Getting snaps, studs, etc. applied
Getting buttons covered
Buttonholes
Grommets applied
Scissors sharpened
Pleating
Fusing
Dressmakers and teachers


Whew!  I think I need a nap... and this represents juts a SLIVER of the district.  Seriously.  Come on a tour (click the link at the top of the page) if you wanna hang out with the big kids...

Moving target

“The best time to plant a tree (or make that shirt) was 20 years (or, in this case, 2 months) ago. The second best time is now.” – Chinese Proverb

Luckily, fabric does not expire when kept under the right conditions.  

Sometimes I plan to get to something right away... And it takes weeks (months?) instead.  Here is one such example. 

The only piece of himself in the hoodie he will allow to be photographed...

I made my son a hoodie with the weird liquid fabric, described in this post.  My constantly-moving kid has two requests:

1 - Please don't share pictures of me online with your friends.

2- Can I wear this every day?

He will NOT take it off.