Trend-ology (the exhibit at FIT)

As if you weren't tired enough of hearing how FIT's brilliant exhibits move me to tears these days...

 Here comes another one.  There is too much to say about this exhibit here, and if you have a chance to see it, please do.  If you won't be able to see it, I'll do my best to help you live it vicariously.

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of visiting this exhibit, after a quick swatching trip to the garment district.  This was my first chance to see the show, which began December 3, and will run until the end of April.  And wow... again... wow.

So many elements compete for your attention, the moment you enter.  The exhibit began with a quote, nestled in the introductory statement on the first wall.

"As soon as fashion is universal, it is out of date."

-Marie Von Ebner-Eschenbach (Austrian psychological novelist)

An IPad mounted on a pedestal for your manipulation, showing a set of pictures for you to swipe through, depicting the fabric trends for Fall/Winter 14/15.

A video, featuring artists/scholars/fashion experts sharing their knowledge, plays quietly on a loop on the front wall.  Bits of wisdom catch your attention, as you stare at the garments positioned on the surrounding platforms.

Visionaries such as Carol Lim, Simon Doonan, and Claude Sabba, give pleanty of food for thought before you explore the show, which covers 250 years of fashion.

"Trend" is used as a verb here, exploring fashion in this case, but expanding to include everything from urban hip-hop to art, to music, to film, to... well, any creative pursuit, really.  The grand question it all seeks to answer here, is "Where do trends originate?"

And, if you're like me,  your own mind takes you to... "And once that trend strikes, what happens next?"

In the introductory video, Carol Lim (Opening Ceremony) hits on an important shift that has taken place.  People buy cheap and in quantity now. "Here today, gone tomorrow" has never been truer. We see Margiela for H&M, Rodarte for Target -  High-end names, producing for the masses.  Its the democratization of fashion we're seeing now.

And the clothes are wonderfully illustrative of this point.  The best examples of some Rei Kawakubo shoes, an Issey Miyake dress, a Poiret dress/robe thing, a Claude Sabba chiffony-number that made my heart skip a beat... I fell in love with so many of the pieces, pieces that typified particular moments in their specific trendy fashion movements that were familiar to me. 

The exhibit gave me memory "beats", like a fashion stopwatch, beautifully curated and cohesive, despite covering such a broad spectrum of looks.  Perfection.  

"Fashion is not a subject of deduction, like a system of logic.  It is made up of a thousand different influences.  Fashion is a living thing and, in consequence, evolves from day to day, from hour to hour, and from minute to minute."

- Jean Patou, 1920's

So, what about this exhibit makes me all weepy? All my life, I have been taught that fashion is a silly, light, unimportant pursuit.  My heart knows that it is not.  In order to make my recent career change, I had to work on convincing myself that my fascination with clothing construction, history and business is indeed a frivolous pursuit.  When I'm in the garment district, however, the voices still whisper to me.  This industry is a part of me.  And, you know what? I don't think it will ever leave me.  It looks like I'll have to be okay with that.

No comment...

Update: This blog is on hiatus for the holiday season.  The new job (see below) and family obligations have made it very hard to keep up, and I intend to make sure this blog is a quality one, with well-researched posts.  I must say... I don't want to jinx it, but I am really enjoying the new job, and the beauty of having coworkers again. While I get used to my new schedule, it is too ambitious for me to try to keep up with this blog, the kids, and life all at once... so the blog is taking a little rest.  I will pop in again at the end of January or so, to give a fresh perspective.

Today, November 4, 2013 (when I first started this post), I am beginning a new job.  Many things have changed for me this month.  All of them good, as far as the big picture is concerned, but I am now moving into a new season in my career, in motherhood/familyhood, and in my life.  

So I got a bit quiet for a moment, (now it is November 17th as I write this) as I always try to remember that while the blogosphere often feels like mass friendship, is actually a bullhorn of sorts.

Here's the thing: 

I got a new job without looking for one.  I saw one job that interested me, put in one resume (written for that job only), interviewed at a few levels a few times, and I got it.  I felt it was a sign from the universe, so I took it!  To do this, I had to undo some agreements I had already made, not take on new projects, cancel some pretty expensive obligations, and make some people wait longer than they wanted to for me to honor some promises I had already made, and made some people angry, all because I couldn't spill the beans on a job I couldn't be sure would turn out as I expected.  So, yes, it was a bit messy, but had to be done. (Note: I did negotiate in the time for the Speakeasies I had already scheduled, although tomorrow's speakeasy is now cancelled, due to very light interest.) If you are waiting for any answers from me, and haven't heard anything by late this evening, just reach out to me, and I will respond.

So, now, here we are... and things are just lovely.  This is not a fashion job, but it makes use of skills I have acquired over my career thus far, and gives me a much more predictable schedule.

So, what about the Speakeasies?  They will continue to be carefully scheduled, whether led by me, or by a beloved sewing colleague, and as valuable and focused as ever.  Due to limited interest in the Spring Speakeasies, I have removed them from the blog until people start asking about them again. 

By the way, thanks to the garment district, I also have a killer work wardrobe (and more supplies to expand it) now, too!  We are business-casual, which is just perfect.

Holiday gifts for the sewing enthusiast!

Much like last year's post (2012), similarly titled, "Holiday gifts for the sewing enthusiast..." Yeah, okay, the only real difference is the ellipsis and some updated information...

Let's say you know and/or love someone who loves to sew or craft.  There are some gifts guaranteed not to disappoint.  Time is short, life is busy.

Maybe you want to gift yourself with something sewing-related.   Maybe you want to gift yourself, and then hand the bill to someone else (ahem...) for reimbursement for your Christmas gift... Offensive? Maybe.  Efficient?  Definitely.  (You'll thank me later for that idea...)

Did you know there are some fabric stores, sewing studios, and websites who offer gift certificates and other gift possibilities?

Well, here are some ideas for you.

Gift Certificates:

Elliott Berman Textiles (online)

Mood Fabrics (online or in-store)

Emma One Sock (online only, for online use)

Gorgeous Things (online only, for online use)

Classes (in person):

Manhattan JCC

Knitting Classes at School Products Yarn

Books and Subscriptions:

Around the World Fashion Publications

If you know of any other NYC garment-related stores  offering gift certificates, don't hesitate to chime in!

Shopping in the Garment District on a Saturday...

Not sure why I haven't noticed, but the garment district is no longer the ghost town it once was on Saturdays.  For those of you who aren't available to shop during the week, there are still plenty of stores to choose from.  And the hours aren't even significantly reduced, like they once were!  Many are open between 10 and 5 with some variations on both opening and closing times, and a much less hustley-bustley experience, to boot!

We have the insanely predatory landlord situation to "thank" for this. As rents have increased, many of the shops now know that (to quote one of the fabric store owners) "If you're not open on Saturday, you are guaranteed not to do any business, no matter how little." As the stores are now far more retail friendly than they once were, we can also "thank" the ever-decreasing customer base. These stores are happy to have all the business they can handle!

Who is the Saturday shopper?  Anyone who doesn't have time on weekdays, anyone who prefers relative quiet, anyone who is happier to "discover" what she/he needs than to be on a very specific search, since looking for something very specific may be tougher on a Saturday, and, lastly, not an intense bargain hunter, since the least expensive stores tend to be closed on the weekend, too.

So, I went to the district this Saturday (yesterday), on what was mostly a quick research run, to find the right complement to a garment I need to finish for a client.  

By the way, this is my photo of what the weather looked/felt like in Central Park yesterday...

Could this just take your breath away, or what?

I went to Rosen & Chadick.  They open at 11AM on Saturdays now, by the way - a bit later than some of the others.

Here's what I found:

This is a wool you've gotta see/feel to believe. Visit it. Buy it. Love it.

A mind-blowing  Loro Piana perfectly white (rare) cashmere to blow you away, some printed silks and some cotton prints that were just magical. Just lovely.

Then I stopped into New York Elegant.  By the way, you may be interested to know that the owners of this store were once fabric converters in Korea.  They really know how to choose great fabric, and, if you don't already know, this store is just HUGE.  Here's the thing though.  They can carry a lot of inventory, and keep it for a long time. There are times when fabrics have been around for 15 years before they actually have their "moment", when they are sold.  That is the beautiful thing about having so much room.

Here are some cool things I found:

Corduroy... seriously!

Pretty acrylic somethin' or other - loved it!

Wool sateen in a glorious regal purple at NY Elegant

Now, NY Elegant is selling more supplies for non-professional workrooms, too.  Near the front counter, you can pick up large sheets of carbon paper, small rolls of pattern paper, thread, magazines, and some general notions, too.   


Where to next? Chic Fabrics, where I found a sparkly-grey stretch knit, that would make a perfect holiday season Saturday shirt in my life, and a grey faux leather that calls out to cover a holiday dessert cart, accented with silver and glass ornaments.

And finally, Daytona Trimming, where I saw this loopy trim (below), in warm colors, begging to accent a mantle.  Just gorgeous.

Where else should you go?  A Saturday itinerary could easily include Paron Fabrics, where I found this great coating fabric:

And you should just feel it.  This picture doesn't do it justice.

Yes, you want this.

Are there more stores?  Of course, there are!  As you probably already know, Mood is wide open on Saturday, as is Gray Lines Linen, B&J Fabrics, A.K. Corp, and many of the trim and notions stores you know and love.

So, there you have it.  Now the only day you will see tumbleweeds in the district is Sunday.

All about Kashi... An update on Metro Textile

Metro Textile

265 W 37th St # 908

New York, NY 10018

(Standard business hours are Mon-Fri 9-6)

212-209-0004

Well, we know what pictures are worth...

Fall is here in New York City.
This lovely sueded grey fabric, perfect for a dress, skirt, or pants, just called my name...

Metro was the source for this fabric before pleating (on top) and then...

Became this skirt!  If you've been following this blog, you remember.

A while back, I found  a deliciously brown charmeuse and lace combo...

And, using this photo as my inspiration...

I chose to pleat the charmeuse at International Pleating 
and create a blouse inspired by this dress! 
(I decided a blouse was better. I want to sit without crushing the pleats.) 

I really love different versions and color combos of camouflage, 
and this is one I particularly adore... it will be another fall/winter jacket.

And of course I love this... the softest, coziest stretch knit ever...

Hey, I liked the purple, too...  That became a shirt I love.

Here's what you need to know about Metro Textiles' proprietor, Kashi.

No longer a "secret" of the district, it seems, his curatorial eye is just wonderful, and he treats his customers like royalty.  Go in, tell him I sent you, and see what happens... seriously.

Here's the kicker. No one pays me to write these things, run this site, or promote their businesses.  I do it out of genuine love for the businesses and creative supplies the vendors offer, and then I talk about them here. 

I must tell you specifically, that Kashi, the person, is a special case.

Ask him "How are you?" and stay for the story.  He is a deeply caring and faithful man, who has a great, uniquely philosophical outlook on life.  There are plenty of places to go in the garment district, to pick up this or that, but he's got some seriously awesome choices stuffed into that little space, at outrageously great prices.  Visit this store, make your purchase, ask him what's great, what's new, what's special... and he will tell and show you.

To shop here, think garment sewing primarily.  While crafters and home dec enthusiasts will find things there, too, the garment sewing fabrics are far more plentiful.

When you decide to go in and see what he's all about (whether for the first time or as a visitor), do me a few favors please.  Swatching, and we know you mean well, is an incredible time waster.  Fabrics have no expiration date.  You love it, you buy it, that's it.  No need to think endlessly, swatch and sigh, wonder and consider.  Just take the plunge.  I've done that plenty of times. I haven't regretted it.  A good sized stash fuels my creativity. And frankly, a good sized stash is good for you.

It can be overwhelming to be in a small space with lots and lots of fabric, and you may need someone who helps you focus, relax, and isolate what you love.  The store is generally quiet, and Kashi will guide you to what you need/want.

So, here's the thing.  Go.  Don't call, don't call to swatch, don't ponder... just go.  He has got an enormously wide range of things to see.  And crazy affordably. Tell him I sent you. I just have a sliver (but considerably more than I've shown here) of what he's got, but I am truly a fan of that store, and after a visit, you will be, too!  

East Coast Trimming

A store that is a bit off my usual beaten path, but became part of my excursion last week, as I was picking up something oh-so-exciting from the garment district!  

(more info on that journey to follow in near-future posts...)

The window is decorated for Halloween!

Why East Coast Trimming?  Halloween is coming.  That's one good reason. I wasn't sure why I stepped in when I went last Friday.  Somehow, that garment district fever just grabbed me. But now that a weekend has passed in-between, I can certainly tell you how it all tied together.

And then... on Saturday, I was walking along Columbus Avenue, just behind the Museum of Natural History, when I saw a quiet little street fair.  I stopped and looked at their offerings, just astounded by the quality of work presented there. The prices for most of the things I loved were higher than any amount I would casually carry (or even have at the moment... who am I kidding...?), but I did get business cards with thoughts of Christmas gifts in my head.

One such vendor was Michal Lando, who offers some of the most exquisite jewelry, that I wanted to jump up and down fanatically at the mere sight of it.  She was wearing her won work, and it really had a wonderful lightness to it. Works of art, really... inimitable, as her techniques, choices of colors and materials are where the magic really happens... but I recognized a mystery material that I frequently fondle in various garment district shops, but have no idea how to use. The pictures on her site are beautiful, but you need to see how these pieces come alive in person, to truly appreciate them.

She was my link to a clue...  Click on this link, and come back to me.  I'll wait...

"What do you call this stuff?" I asked her, touching the tubular necklaces. "It is a mesh, typically used by milliners, I think," she replied.

Ahhh... there it is! That tubular stuff I've seen in many notions stores, but most recently at East Coast Trimming, where I really liked the colors they had in stock. Keep in mind, that this stuff comes in different strengths, with different amounts of springy-ness, then can be stiffened with millinery sizing.  It is also dyeable.  So, what is this stuff called?

Found on Ask.com:

"Sinamay is a type of natural fibre that is made from a plant called musa textilis found in the Philippines. Sinamay is usually dyed and stiffened, and is mainly used for the production of hats, fascinators and other clothing accessories."

A YouTube search for sinamay will lead you to a plethora of tutorials on fascinators, hats, tutus, decorations, and holiday ornaments. As if our brains weren't full enough of ideas already, right?

So, let's say you do to East Coast Trimmings.  Maybe you aren't going there for sinamay.  But maybe you'll spot those great buckles and closures, those beautiful dyed ribbons handing in the back on the left side, some buttons, some feathers... just gasp and sigh, and dream...

A picture is worth...

6 rectangles (two sleeves, two neckline border pieces, a front panel, and solid black back panel). Two hours. Made and worn in one weekend. Went to a great lunch with some fabulous sewing goddesses on Saturday, and had a chance to wear my new friend...

Yes, my "London Eye" panel became a shirt.  If you've been following the blog for a while, you may remember how/when I found her. She absolutely looks better worn on a body than on the dress form, but you know how I hate to pose.  She needs a breeze, a context, an environment to show her true personality.  I am very happy with her.