Just sayin'...
New York City garment district tours and maps for people who love to design, sew, and create. Sharing stories to inspire your own creations.
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
In a much better Mood...
Update 5/22/13: The Mood website is being revamped, as are some of the spaces within the store. Keep your eyes open for more improvements as they move forward!
For some New Yorkers and frequent garment district shoppers, Mood has become the tourist attraction of the the area. Arms crossed, squinting, scowling, people have complained that it is crowded, with inconsistent prices, long waits at the register, overwhelming...
But...
I really enjoy their leather and home dec departments, and ventured in to explore as I work out the design of a bag I'm currently working on. Boy, did I find what I was looking for, and boy, was has the shopping experience vastly improved!
With fresh eyes, I took myself on a bit of a tour around the place. At least 5 different employees must have asked me, in a completely friendly, gentle, and helpful way, if I needed help finding anything. The organization of the space was incredibly neat and inspiring, and appropriate tools could be found near the supplies related to them. Heavy-duty staplers, for example, are hung near the home dec upholstery fabric. Thumbs up!
The seminar offerings are ever changing, and ever growing. On the Mood website, the link can be found on the lower right, where the (small) word "classes" appears among the horizontal choices. Perfect for the tourist or the local, they are seminars, not hands-on classes, so you can learn without lugging equipment, or dedicating any large amount of time for multiple classes. Often taught by popular "sewlebrities" (like my new word?), they can fill up quickly. The free "Mood School" handouts with instructions for doing things like applying invisible zippers are fabulous. The button selection is amazing, and as always, the home dec section is wonderful.
In a nutshell, Mood can be a really great choice for the ambitious creative person who needs additional information or help. I have personally seen that management really listens and responds to the customer service feedback they have received. Mood is particularly great for the creative who craves order and instructions, and yes, it is a really inspiring place to be!
For some New Yorkers and frequent garment district shoppers, Mood has become the tourist attraction of the the area. Arms crossed, squinting, scowling, people have complained that it is crowded, with inconsistent prices, long waits at the register, overwhelming...
But...
I really enjoy their leather and home dec departments, and ventured in to explore as I work out the design of a bag I'm currently working on. Boy, did I find what I was looking for, and boy, was has the shopping experience vastly improved!
With fresh eyes, I took myself on a bit of a tour around the place. At least 5 different employees must have asked me, in a completely friendly, gentle, and helpful way, if I needed help finding anything. The organization of the space was incredibly neat and inspiring, and appropriate tools could be found near the supplies related to them. Heavy-duty staplers, for example, are hung near the home dec upholstery fabric. Thumbs up!
The seminar offerings are ever changing, and ever growing. On the Mood website, the link can be found on the lower right, where the (small) word "classes" appears among the horizontal choices. Perfect for the tourist or the local, they are seminars, not hands-on classes, so you can learn without lugging equipment, or dedicating any large amount of time for multiple classes. Often taught by popular "sewlebrities" (like my new word?), they can fill up quickly. The free "Mood School" handouts with instructions for doing things like applying invisible zippers are fabulous. The button selection is amazing, and as always, the home dec section is wonderful.
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| They have what i need for my bag! |
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| Now, look at those wavy stripes! |
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| Textures... colors... |
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| More cool buttons... |
In a nutshell, Mood can be a really great choice for the ambitious creative person who needs additional information or help. I have personally seen that management really listens and responds to the customer service feedback they have received. Mood is particularly great for the creative who craves order and instructions, and yes, it is a really inspiring place to be!
Monday, May 13, 2013
NYC notions store review: Top Trimmings... (This store is cool)
Top Trimmings
Wholesale and Retail (Custom production, too)
228 West 39th Street
New York, NY 10018
There are stores in the garment district I pass regularly, and have never venture inside. Despite recommendations from STGD friends and others, I had not been specifically moved to visit this store, since I am not a person who uses a multitude of flashy trimmings. The feathers and sparkles in the windows had never lured me in. But then, because I am working out the design details for a bag I am making, I decided to take a look, and found all sorts of fun stuff.
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| Of particular interest were these lace neckline decorations (also in black). I can see ways to use them beyond bridal. |
I walked in, with a bit of time to spend, and saw all of the fun, unexpected stuff! There's also an arrow pointing up, inviting you to go upstairs. Follow that arrow. Fun bridal stuff up and more up there.
The store is quite affordable, not high-end, and it looks like it appeals to the costumer/artist types. At least, that's who I saw when I was in there. No pressure or aggressive salespeople while browsing. Just fun.
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Schmalberg's Custom Fabric Flowers
I've written an article on this business for the June/July issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine.
Click through to read it! When directed to the magazine itself, there are sample pages, and my article is free to read online. Then, if so inclined, go 'head and buy yourself a copy to read the rest of the issue!
Update: Martha Stewart thinks they're great, too!
Click through to read it! When directed to the magazine itself, there are sample pages, and my article is free to read online. Then, if so inclined, go 'head and buy yourself a copy to read the rest of the issue!
Update: Martha Stewart thinks they're great, too!
Sposabella Lace
Have I died and gone to heaven? Apparently not, if you're reading this. Unless of course, you're using a "cloud" reader... Ba dum ching!
Before I go on, let me just show you this... (click the link)
Go ahead, click it, and come back.
I'll wait...
No really, I'll wait...
When you walk into the brick and mortar store, reviewed on this blog in the past, the owner, Frank Sena will likely be there to meet you. I must say, the garment district is a less warm and fuzzy place now than it once was, and you get the feeling that there is a bit of fatigue with the endless browsing, questions, and dreamers wandering in. But then, when you get a layer deeper, a true interaction begins.
According to Frank, Sposabella holds the record for being the only garment district fabric store serving in same location continuously. We know the real estate leasing woes that have plagued so many over the years, and somehow, Frank has managed to avoid playing that game. So many of these stores are family businesses - fathers, sons, grandfathers who skillfully learned the trade, make great deals, and sell quality goods. They take the embroideries and surface treatments on the laces and nettings very seriously.
Who should go to Sposabella? You are likely a bride, dressmaker for, a mother of, a bridesmaid, or someone getting ready for a very big formal event that merits the expense. Your pockets need not be excessively deep, but Sposabella is not for the bargain hunter. It is also a great place for tiaras and veils, whether you sew, or don't sew at all. Because it is mainly bridal, you won't find a wide range of colors.
Let's take silk tulle as an example. Frank ushers me over to the counter, and pulls a small bolt from the glass case. "Now, there's what people will sell as silk tulle.... I mean, you don't really know the difference, right?", as he guides me to feel the fabric in my hands, "... and then there's actual silk tulle."
It was magical. Now, I generally don't fall for the Them vs. Us argument too easily. Everyone in the garment district does it. Everyone wants you to think they know something the other guys doesn't. Don't get me wrong, Frank is definitely a salesman...
But he also has the goods to back it up. Look around. The stuff is beautiful!
And here's another thought. Lace for men. A beautiful - and even expensive lace can be the magic element of a shirt when strategically applied to show off its beauty. Look to this fabulous post by Peter for inspiration!
Before I go on, let me just show you this... (click the link)
Go ahead, click it, and come back.
I'll wait...
No really, I'll wait...
When you walk into the brick and mortar store, reviewed on this blog in the past, the owner, Frank Sena will likely be there to meet you. I must say, the garment district is a less warm and fuzzy place now than it once was, and you get the feeling that there is a bit of fatigue with the endless browsing, questions, and dreamers wandering in. But then, when you get a layer deeper, a true interaction begins.
According to Frank, Sposabella holds the record for being the only garment district fabric store serving in same location continuously. We know the real estate leasing woes that have plagued so many over the years, and somehow, Frank has managed to avoid playing that game. So many of these stores are family businesses - fathers, sons, grandfathers who skillfully learned the trade, make great deals, and sell quality goods. They take the embroideries and surface treatments on the laces and nettings very seriously.
Who should go to Sposabella? You are likely a bride, dressmaker for, a mother of, a bridesmaid, or someone getting ready for a very big formal event that merits the expense. Your pockets need not be excessively deep, but Sposabella is not for the bargain hunter. It is also a great place for tiaras and veils, whether you sew, or don't sew at all. Because it is mainly bridal, you won't find a wide range of colors.
Let's take silk tulle as an example. Frank ushers me over to the counter, and pulls a small bolt from the glass case. "Now, there's what people will sell as silk tulle.... I mean, you don't really know the difference, right?", as he guides me to feel the fabric in my hands, "... and then there's actual silk tulle."
It was magical. Now, I generally don't fall for the Them vs. Us argument too easily. Everyone in the garment district does it. Everyone wants you to think they know something the other guys doesn't. Don't get me wrong, Frank is definitely a salesman...
But he also has the goods to back it up. Look around. The stuff is beautiful!
And here's another thought. Lace for men. A beautiful - and even expensive lace can be the magic element of a shirt when strategically applied to show off its beauty. Look to this fabulous post by Peter for inspiration!
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
Close to home
"Ma also gave me $2.99 to buy a paperback Webster's dictionary. This cost us almost two hundred finished skirts, since we were paid 1.5 cents per skirt. For years, I calculated whether or not something was expensive by how many skirts it cost. In those days, the subway was 100 skirst just to get to the factory and back, a package of gum cost 7 skirts, a hot dog was 50 skirts, and a new toy could range from 300 to 2,000 skirts. I even measured friendship in skirts. I learned you had to buy Christmas and birthday presents for friends, which cost at least a few hundred skirts each. It was a good thing I only had Annette as a friend."
- Kwok, Jean. Girl in Translation.
We lost all our money in the move to the United States. My family started working in a sweatshop in Chinatown. My father took me there every day after school and we all emerged many hours later, soaked in sweat and covered in fabric dust. Our apartment swarmed with insects and rats. In the winter, we kept the oven door open day and night because there was no other heat in the apartment.
-Jean Kwok
With all of my recent talk about foreign factory labor, unions, the importance of local suppliers, etc. Here's the kicker: I read the about the author page on the web, after seeing her familiar face with a link on a high school friend's Facebook page. The high school the author went to? Same as my own. I didn't know her personally, although the classes were small, (at least, I don't remember - my apologies if you see this somehow, Jean if that isn't true, but I certainly know your face!) since we were a year apart.
The fact is, this is about far more than clothing.
What can we do? Well, we don't need an official "movement", since everyone can take steps of his/her own. Here's what my (literal) sister is doing. How about you?
I laced myself up...
So, here's the skirt to go with my Yeah, Baby shirt (also known as the Ombré Hombre shirt). Topstitched and casually top-of-knee length, it is just what I want to wear. I decided that I really only want to wear skirts and dresses for the warmer months this year, so that's where I am nowadays... My dress form is flatter than I am, but kinda close to my size, so this is how I am showing it to you. On me, it is completely smooth.
Special credit to the following vendors:
Rosen & Chadick for dark (my new neutral) red cotton twill.
Elliott Berman Textiles for the very cool T-shirt fabric
Star Snaps for both the grommets and professional insertion
Metro Textiles, because many years ago, Kashi (owner) used to buy some factory notions as well, and I bought a huge roll of poly tape that holds lightweight edges and seams nice and even for me. You can't see it in my picture, because it is hidden on the inside...
I went to Daytona Trimming for my first lacing idea, holding up the illustration on my fabric for color agreement/harmony, and agonized over a few almost right shades and weights of cords for laces, ultimately deciding on one that I considered just right... The staffer frowned a bit, and asked me if I was sure. I was. Later, when looking at the nearly finished shirt, I wasn't so sure anymore. I knew didn't want ribbons, but the cord I bought felt too thin... Hmmm.... Nothing that says "little girl". Not going for "sexpot", either. Something that looks intentional, industrial, artsy, athletic, and strong...
Then, a random fact popped into my head. I live in what is arguably the fashion sneaker capital neighborhood of New York City. Just an aside here, but my neighborhood is actually, officially a test market for high-end blinged-out sneaker fabulousness. So, without a doubt, there are bound to be shoelaces that are exactly what I need!
Ready-to-wear similar options are largely absent on the 'net... so maybe I'm in the minority for liking this one?
That's okay. It is just for me, after all, and I'm the only one who has to like it! Well, if people start throwing tomatoes at me while I walk down the street in it, I may reconsider. Generally speaking, everything I make gets a few glances and/or comments for a year or two... and then people LOVE it three years later. So, either I'm ahead of the curve, or simply out-of synch. We'll see if that's the case here, too. I have a bit of ManRepeller induced "fashion-phobia/philia" these days. After all, sometimes I just love something other people hate. Or vice-versa. We've gotta let that be okay.
My new shirt was inspired by this picture and tutorial, if you are wondering how to make one, and need some direction.
My skirt is a variation on an old Vogue pattern (9773 - not similar enough to the original pattern to merit its inclusion here). I've been using the old, significantly altered tissue forever (or since 1997, judging from the pattern envelope). I like princess seams in my skirts, so I can just mold the skirt to my (practically nonexistent) hips and rear.
Anyway, the ensemble makes me happy.
![]() |
| A hearty cotton twill, very denim-like in durability, in a shade of red I desperately needed. |
![]() |
| A durable pocket, just right for a MetroCard and whatever sliver of paper I might wanna carry.. |
![]() |
| My color story |
Special credit to the following vendors:
Rosen & Chadick for dark (my new neutral) red cotton twill.
Elliott Berman Textiles for the very cool T-shirt fabric
Star Snaps for both the grommets and professional insertion
Metro Textiles, because many years ago, Kashi (owner) used to buy some factory notions as well, and I bought a huge roll of poly tape that holds lightweight edges and seams nice and even for me. You can't see it in my picture, because it is hidden on the inside...
I went to Daytona Trimming for my first lacing idea, holding up the illustration on my fabric for color agreement/harmony, and agonized over a few almost right shades and weights of cords for laces, ultimately deciding on one that I considered just right... The staffer frowned a bit, and asked me if I was sure. I was. Later, when looking at the nearly finished shirt, I wasn't so sure anymore. I knew didn't want ribbons, but the cord I bought felt too thin... Hmmm.... Nothing that says "little girl". Not going for "sexpot", either. Something that looks intentional, industrial, artsy, athletic, and strong...
Then, a random fact popped into my head. I live in what is arguably the fashion sneaker capital neighborhood of New York City. Just an aside here, but my neighborhood is actually, officially a test market for high-end blinged-out sneaker fabulousness. So, without a doubt, there are bound to be shoelaces that are exactly what I need!
Ready-to-wear similar options are largely absent on the 'net... so maybe I'm in the minority for liking this one?
That's okay. It is just for me, after all, and I'm the only one who has to like it! Well, if people start throwing tomatoes at me while I walk down the street in it, I may reconsider. Generally speaking, everything I make gets a few glances and/or comments for a year or two... and then people LOVE it three years later. So, either I'm ahead of the curve, or simply out-of synch. We'll see if that's the case here, too. I have a bit of ManRepeller induced "fashion-phobia/philia" these days. After all, sometimes I just love something other people hate. Or vice-versa. We've gotta let that be okay.
My new shirt was inspired by this picture and tutorial, if you are wondering how to make one, and need some direction.
My skirt is a variation on an old Vogue pattern (9773 - not similar enough to the original pattern to merit its inclusion here). I've been using the old, significantly altered tissue forever (or since 1997, judging from the pattern envelope). I like princess seams in my skirts, so I can just mold the skirt to my (practically nonexistent) hips and rear.
Anyway, the ensemble makes me happy.
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