Shopping in the Garment District on a Saturday...

Not sure why I haven't noticed, but the garment district is no longer the ghost town it once was on Saturdays.  For those of you who aren't available to shop during the week, there are still plenty of stores to choose from.  And the hours aren't even significantly reduced, like they once were!  Many are open between 10 and 5 with some variations on both opening and closing times, and a much less hustley-bustley experience, to boot!

We have the insanely predatory landlord situation to "thank" for this. As rents have increased, many of the shops now know that (to quote one of the fabric store owners) "If you're not open on Saturday, you are guaranteed not to do any business, no matter how little." As the stores are now far more retail friendly than they once were, we can also "thank" the ever-decreasing customer base. These stores are happy to have all the business they can handle!

Who is the Saturday shopper?  Anyone who doesn't have time on weekdays, anyone who prefers relative quiet, anyone who is happier to "discover" what she/he needs than to be on a very specific search, since looking for something very specific may be tougher on a Saturday, and, lastly, not an intense bargain hunter, since the least expensive stores tend to be closed on the weekend, too.

So, I went to the district this Saturday (yesterday), on what was mostly a quick research run, to find the right complement to a garment I need to finish for a client.  

By the way, this is my photo of what the weather looked/felt like in Central Park yesterday...

Could this just take your breath away, or what?

I went to Rosen & Chadick.  They open at 11AM on Saturdays now, by the way - a bit later than some of the others.

Here's what I found:

This is a wool you've gotta see/feel to believe. Visit it. Buy it. Love it.

A mind-blowing  Loro Piana perfectly white (rare) cashmere to blow you away, some printed silks and some cotton prints that were just magical. Just lovely.

Then I stopped into New York Elegant.  By the way, you may be interested to know that the owners of this store were once fabric converters in Korea.  They really know how to choose great fabric, and, if you don't already know, this store is just HUGE.  Here's the thing though.  They can carry a lot of inventory, and keep it for a long time. There are times when fabrics have been around for 15 years before they actually have their "moment", when they are sold.  That is the beautiful thing about having so much room.

Here are some cool things I found:

Corduroy... seriously!

Pretty acrylic somethin' or other - loved it!

Wool sateen in a glorious regal purple at NY Elegant

Now, NY Elegant is selling more supplies for non-professional workrooms, too.  Near the front counter, you can pick up large sheets of carbon paper, small rolls of pattern paper, thread, magazines, and some general notions, too.   


Where to next? Chic Fabrics, where I found a sparkly-grey stretch knit, that would make a perfect holiday season Saturday shirt in my life, and a grey faux leather that calls out to cover a holiday dessert cart, accented with silver and glass ornaments.

And finally, Daytona Trimming, where I saw this loopy trim (below), in warm colors, begging to accent a mantle.  Just gorgeous.

Where else should you go?  A Saturday itinerary could easily include Paron Fabrics, where I found this great coating fabric:

And you should just feel it.  This picture doesn't do it justice.

Yes, you want this.

Are there more stores?  Of course, there are!  As you probably already know, Mood is wide open on Saturday, as is Gray Lines Linen, B&J Fabrics, A.K. Corp, and many of the trim and notions stores you know and love.

So, there you have it.  Now the only day you will see tumbleweeds in the district is Sunday.

The quest for pants...

On the recent "Speakeasy" tour, one of the journeys I noticed many in our group shared, was the quest for better pants.  Some are taking classes to learn better techniques, and some were looking for better fabrics. Some just needed some guidance to find the "right" fabric.

If you want to come on a Speakeasy tour, the next one happens pretty soon, so sign up!

Choosing the right fabric for your pants is very important.  You stress pants in ways that you don't challenge other garments.  When you sit for a time, you want your pants to be comfortable, and continue to look as good when you stand up again.  When you bend, make big movements, or walk, you don't want to need to "readjust", if you know what I mean.  Where they wrinkle, stretch, fade, and how well they'll launder are all things to consider as well.  The combined expertise of our group really helped the shoppers find what they wanted/needed.

There are plenty of places to buy great fabric for pants, but here are a few from my recent jaunts, where I have found places with great choices:

Classics:

Try Rosen and Chadick for wool, cotton twill, washed linen, corduroy.  Wool sateen makes particularly wonderful "dress up" pants.

Fun/Artistic/Colorful:

Try New York Elegant for exciting denims and great bottom-weight cottons (far back wall, kinda to your left).

Fashionistas:

Try Metro Textiles for great, affordable cotton twills... But get 'em now, because his inventory is ever-changing!

Try Fabrics & Fabrics for wonderful brocades.

Budget conscious/classic:

Try AK Fabrics for very affordable wools and poly-blends.

So, let's say you need some help making them.  Where to adjust, etc?  You can't find or buy this article anywhere (below), and it did appear in the Butterick Home Catalogue in the Fall of 1998, where I worked as an employee at the time. I just found my copy today, buried in a book I probably haven't opened in a year.  What is missing from the article, which I chose not to share, if the personal pant measurement chart.  Why didn't I share it? Because mine has my own measurements written in.  Here's what to record for your own chart:

Date: _____ (because you may need this later!)

Circumference measurements:

Waist ___
High Hip _____ (Measured ___" or cm down from waistline)
Full hip _____ (Measured ____" or cm down from waistline)
Thigh ____
Knee ____
Calf ____
Instep ____

Length Measurements:

Side length to floor ___
Side length to knee _____
Side length to calf ____
Crotch depth ______
Front crotch length _____
Back crotch length _____

If you have scoliosis, or any other left/right difference, take a left and right measurement for each affected area.  This may mean that you have to divide some circumference measurements into "left" and "right", and that if you are using a commercial pattern, you may need to make left and right versions or halves of pieces originally designed to be identical on each side. Make sense?

Let me know if you can't see these.  I have a hard time with pictures and scans... Note: I can read them on my screen, and I can drag and drop them to my own desktop and enlarge them.  Can you?

* I am sharing copywritten info here, giving full credit to the publisher, who has no copies available to share.  If anyone knows where a person can purchase or obtain a copy, feel free to let me know in the comments.

Why Not Sew a Winter Coat for Your Dog?

McCalls 6455

If you read this blog with any regularity, you know I'm a big proponent of sewing your own winter coat. Why not make one for your beloved pet too? My dog has a Lands End fleece coat but it's just not heavy enough for the bitter cold we experienced in NYC this week. So I ordered this pattern yesterday from McCalls and am thinking about what fabrics to use to get the right amount of warmth for my Ralph. Probably some quilted nylon from A.K. Fabrics, possibly some neoprene fleece I bought two years ago from Mood Fabrics, maybe a little tweed for British style? (When I put Ralph's coat on him for a walk my husband always tells him the other dogs will beat him up for looking less than macho, but we just ignore him.) Pacific Trimming has loads of reflective trim in all sizes and colors, which is especially important for walks after dark.

Have you ever made a dog coat before? Any suggestions for me and other dog-loving STGD readers are greatly appreciated. Stay warm!

My colleague Marianne's dog Duchess wearing the fabulous coat that talented New Zealand sewer Christine Thompson custom made out of red leather and a sporty plaid lining. Christine is Marianne's aunt and this coat was a wedding gift for Marianne and her new husband. When Duchess wears this coat all the other fashionista dogs in NYC are so jealous of her!

Wool Coating Deals in the Garment District

$9.99 a yard is quite the price for wool coatings. Chic Fabrics, 225 W. 39th Street.

What's the key to surviving another brutal winter? Outerwear that makes you look and feel good, not to mention keep you warm. Sewing your own coat or jacket is a lot easier than you'd think, especially if you choose a loosely-structured style without a lot of tailoring and fitting demands. And when you make your own coat, you can customize it to meet your personal warmth needs.

To the best of my knowledge, Chic Fabrics on W. 39th Street has the most attractive deals on wool coating, at $9.99 a yard. Not a huge selection and the coatings tend to be on the lightweight side, but that's a great price. Do inspect your yardage before it's cut, as I found water spots on my wool coating after I got home. (Fortunately I could cut around them.)

You can find more wool coatings on W. 39th Street at the stores west of Chic but on the same side of the street. The selection gets better but the prices do go up, starting around $18 a yard. Also, Mood Fabrics has a large selection of wool coatings at a range of price points, as do B&J, Paron's, NY Elegant and Rosen & Chadick.

Don't forget linings. For warmth, I like the flannel-backed satin linings at B&J, or the quilted satins and nylons at AK Fabrics. For a luxurious touch, add a fur collar from Mood or Prime Fabrics (W. 35th).

Happy sewing and happy holidays!

Ready-made fur collars at Mood Fabrics. Add one to that coat you're going to make.

Here's my coat in progress: Wool coating from Chic, fur from Prime, quilted lining from AK.

Found: Coach Fabric at A.K. Fabrics

If you are a fan of all things Coach, check out this Coach canvas fabric I found today at A.K. Fabrics on W. 39th Street. Heavyweight, it would be perfect for a tote bag. I didn't ask the price, but I'm guessing it falls somewhere in the store's general $6-$12 a yard range.

[Update: Cidell of Miss Celie's Pants just bought the last of this Coach fabric. Ya gotta act fast, people!]

There are also several attractive cotton prints here, though far too many have a Hawaiian or beach theme for my tastes. I did like this print, though:

And A.K. is by far the best option in town for denim of all weights and colors. Have you shopped here yet?

NYC Fabric Store Review: A.K. Fabrics

Address: 257 W. 39th Street, New York, NYC
Phone: 212-944-5693
Hours: Mon-Fri: 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.; Sat: 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Online store: A.K Fabrics; akfabricscorp@yahoo.com
Student discount with ID? Yes
Best for: Basic fabrics at affordable prices

A.K. Fabrics is the Gap of the garment district: When you want the fabric equivalent of a plain white t-shirt or a pair of khakis, this is the place. Stocking the basics in mostly natural fibers, A.K. Fabrics carries cottons, denims, wool, silk and velvet.

And the customer service is first-rate. Sali Raddani, whose father opened A.K. Fabrics thirty years ago, helped me with the fabric I bought, and her cuts were generous. (Love a store with generous cuts, don't you? Paron's is also good this way.) As I browsed the store, her two brothers Azam and Khan asked if I needed any help but then didn't hover when I told them I was just looking. A couple of times, people walked in off the street asking for fabrics and if they didn't have what they were looking for, Sali, Azam or Khan pleasantly directed them to other stores in the area.

A.K. Fabrics has an online site, though it really represents only a fraction of what the store on W. 39th has to offer. Sali says you can call and describe what you're looking for and they'll be happy to send swatches or fabric to any state or country. Daytona Braids & Trims is just a couple of doors down from A.K. Fabrics, so you can get your fabric and trim in one fell swoop. If you don't need to be wowed by designer fabrics and want quality basics at affordable prices, check out A.K. Fabrics the next time you're in the area.

That's Sali Raddani in the corner. Her father opened A.K. Fabrics 30 years ago.

A.K. has an ample selection of cotton prints, many with stretch. Some of the prints look a little dated.

I also saw wool suitings, gabardine and cotton shirtings at A.K. Fabrics. Fabric prices range from $1 to $35 per yard, according to Sali Raddani.