"Bleep" you, Gwyneth Paltrow! and a confession... (originally posted 9/12/16)

Pardon my French people, but let me explain how this goes...

Sometime about a year or two ago, I declared myself a Paltrow-free zone, refusing to utter her name for at least a full week, as she seemed attached to EVERYTHING I was doing and believed in for a time, and I just couldn't believe how often I was uttering her name.  Sensing that my involuntary fandom was bordering dangerously on worship, I cut the Gwyneth cord, and tried to go cold turkey.

But...

This summer happened.  My daughter went vegetarian, I supported/am supporting her choice, I opened my Gwyneth cookbook (and now it's looking like I'm gonna have to buy the others) to reveal even more exciting recipes and ideas than the ones I've already fallen in love with, I watched some great social documentaries about the way we live and what we consume...  (see Vegucated, Living on One Dollar, Chelsea Handler's Netflix show - grownups only - but very much worth watching, if you have an open mind a reasonable tolerance/willingness to ignore/allow profanity and delicate topics), my favorite episode of Glee (see above), the movie Shallow Hal, which I've now seen at least 10 times! and now, here I am... just head over heels again.  I wanna just scream "*** you!" (I'm not a profanity girl, so that's the best I can do) at her for reeling me back in again, sitting on my shoulder like some sort of nagging reminder that I have a responsibility to the planet, my family, and myself.  Grumble.

A paraphrase of her comment on a recent talk show was, "How is it that we allow ourselves to buy products and have no idea what's in them?  And the makers have no obligation to tell us, either!"  That is insane. Yes, we should know where our food comes from, anything we slather on our skin or hair, what's in it, what our clothes are made of, what chemicals are in the dyes and fabrics.  We should not be denied that information.  But... it's outrageous for us not to seek it, either.

Truth be told, there is a health component to what we are wearing, consuming, slathering on.  We can dismiss passionate people as goofy idealists, but this is our lives we are talking about... and more voices are chiming in.  

Another example of this sentiment below:

I’ve been on a journey as I’ve gotten older, of really thinking much more about the environment, about health and wellness. I think particularly because of my work around trauma, which is very focused on the body. It makes you aware of the impact the environment can have on your body and brain. The Columbia School of Public Health did a study recently showing that certain pesticides used in public housing products caused developmental delays in those children. Our first instinct is to blame parents for those delays, but it was the environment that really played that role. I started to see the impact of environment on physical well being, and think more deeply about what I’m eating, what I put on my skin. Even about the sun: when I was growing up you put baby oil on and burnt to a crisp. It’s the ongoing realization of how powerful environment is, and how it can impact your brain and body and what’s inside of you. I’ve noticed differences in how I feel when I eat organic food versus processed food. It’s an ongoing journey.

-Lyn Slater of Zady Lady


So, the point here... if you are a creative person who cares about the environment, extensive sourcing and questions of the buyer in the establishment will inform you about the fabrics you may wish to purchase to make your goods, but it still won't get you there entirely.  Research is important, for sure, and will educate you somewhat, but eventually, you will have to rely on limited sources for your goods if you want to be true to the mission.

In the garment district, the brick and mortar stores I have recently noticed carrying either organic cottons, bamboo, hemp, or other eco-friendly and sustainable fabrics are NY Elegant, B&J Fabrics, Mood, and Grayline Linen. It is a tough road to environmentally responsible choices, and nothing but consumer education will bring us any closer to healthier options overall.

Been around the world... within the garment district (Part I)

I go to things...

LOTS OF THINGS.

And when I go to these things, I get business cards.  Not just from anyone who wants to hand me a card, mind you.  I only take them when I am interested in following up, or if I see something that really interests me.  I'm curious by nature, so of course, that means LOTS of cards...

I now have a pile of cards I have not yet put away in the file, and I am fully immersed in my end-of-year/pre-new year cleanup.  Before putting them away, I check each, to make sure they are still valid, and, as I am doing this, I see some definite trends in this group.

These cards take me all over the planet... This industry is clearly global, and modern technology is making it possible to be more closely connected every day.  What that allows for creatives and any industry types right here in NYC, is access to these amazing suppliers who have representatives and local stockists who bring their phenomenally creative wares right here for our use.  Some are as close as New Jersey or Maryland, while others are as far-flung as you can imagine.

With an emphasis on eco-friendly businesses, I have highlighted a few who will remain in my card file.

• PAPER No9

For example, check out Paper No9, which is a very cool Brooklyn company, making amazingly interesting sustainable fabrics for the apparel and accessory industries. I learned about this company and sampled/fondled some of their products at a Be Social Change event earlier this year.

• ZenTex

ZenTex is an eco-friendly NY company with a garment district showroom, selling in stock fabrics with minimums as low as one bolt. 

• Indigo Handloom

Indigo Handloom is a company that makes such breath-takingly beautiful Ikats and other fabrics that you will think you have died and gone to heaven when you see them.  Their fabrics were on display at the DG Expo this year, and their goods are just amazing.

• THINX

I wrote a blog post a while back about Miki Agrawal, an "underwear activist" who impressed me greatly with her THINX line, which is just about the greatest thing since sliced bread, in my opinion.  Her company is an absolutely beautiful example of eco-friendly, passionate, heart-driven work that I sincerely adore.



I will offer a glimpse into some other companies I have discovered in a follow-up post.

Apparel, Sustainiblity and the Environment? A very REAL post...

You must treat the earth well. It

was not given to you by your

parents. It is loaned to you by your

children.

- Kenyan Proverb

I'll be real, here...

This is too broad of a topic to even try to address in a single post.  There are far too many tendrils involved to even make a dent in the bigger issues here.

But... this post does come with resources, ideas, and reference tools. 

Why do I even bring this up?


I recently attended a special premiere for an HBO documentary, that, while specifically created for and about children, it presented environmental challenges in a unique, digestible, and hopeful way. Believe me when I say it is equally valuable for adults and children alike.

To view the short trailer for the program, click here.  The documentary is called "Saving My Tomorrow", and it features some phenomenal kids, some great music (Check out Joni Mitchell's song Big Yellow Taxi, performed by Lennon & Maisy - *you can also find it on ITunes or Spotify), wonderful visuals, celebrity readings... and, what I would lovingly refer to as "gourmet food for thought".

After seeing the film, I understood that while we can always talk about what we (collectively) are doing that is environmentally irresponsible now... (and... yeah...yawn, right?) what we will HAVE to talk about eventually, is what we CANNOT continue to do.  Eventually, we will be FORCED to make different decisions, because so many choices we are currently making are not sustainable ones.

Now, if you're still with me, here's my next point:

When it comes to apparel...


Let's consider the Higg Index.  What is it?  Officially, it is an open-source...

"self-assessment tool aimed at creating a standard industry approach to measuring and evaluating sustainability impacts of all apparel and footwear products for the industry, while informing business-to-business decision-making that identifies ways to improve products and processes.  The Higg Index looks at sustainability from an environmental and social/labor standpoint."

Blah, blah, blah...

These are just words right now, but these words will grow louder as time marches on. I've never been a tree-hugging environmental activist, and in fact, have long appreciated the artificial obsolescence of fashion trends.  But, even I will say that this subject is worthy of your time, careful consideration and attention.


On artificial obsolescence:

Have you ever noticed that trends are just created and sold to you?  You didn't actually just happen to love skinny jeans, they just got used to seeing many permutations of them, until, eventually... you bought/made/coveted a pair?

On Squawk Box this morning, the financial reporters commented on low retail numbers for apparel are due to a trendless season in fashion fight now.  No prevailing colors or styles pushing people out to buy new stuff is a real problem for retailers.

In the UK, however, they are busy trying to push sustainability as its own fashion trend.  Is that possible?  Can it be done? Can it be cool?

Yes, it can...

Check out these links:

First eco-fashion week  in New Zealand.

Sustainable fashion from Pharell.  Yes, the guy who sings "Happy" wants to clean the ocean...

Oh, and let's add some more starpower to the mix...

The CFDA Sustainability Initiative, and the no-brainer featured designer...

There's a lot more to explore out there.  I can't imagine where this will take us in the future, but it is absolutely the beginning of a broader movement.

Eco-friendly fabrics

The ecologically-minded folks among you will be "Happy" to read this article, highlighting the mission of the artist pictured below:

Recording Artist and Creative Director of Bionic Yarn Pharrell Williams greets Chief Marketing Officer, G-Star Thecla Schaeffer at the event to announce "RAW for the Oceans", a long-term collaboration between Bionic Yarn and G-Star turning ocean plastic into Denim, at American Museum of Natural History on February 8, 2014 in New York City.

Today's post is in response to a specific reader (and professional colleague's) question... 

 I've been meaning to ask you about eco-friendly fabrics since last year. I'm curious and concerned about the fashion industry's move towards sustainability. Our industry is the second largest polluter in the world according to research. Between textile waste, polluting natural resources and social abuse, the industry is making a huge impact. Have you heard discussions about sustainability in fashion? Also, what steps are industry leaders taking to improve the enormous waste associated with cheap fashion? I've vowed not to design another piece of clothing unless it is made from recycled fiber or textile. It is difficult to stay away from polyester since it's the cheapest thing on the market and abundant. However, it's made from plastic and highly toxic especially when place in dryers. Most people don't have a clue. My question to you is? Which fabric stores sell recycled textiles or work with factories recycling fibers to weave new textiles. I may not get into the business of custom making textiles but I want to support businesses who do. Is it possible to find a list of stores or distributors contributing to eco-fabric? I would love to have this knowledge or find research. There are a few professors at F.I.T teaching sustainability in fashion but it's a new concept. What are your thoughts? 

Thank you for asking about this, Stacia.  If you care about the environment and our collective future, you may care to know that there are some companies specifically focused on providing Eco-Freindly fabrics, and to my eyes, it doesn't look like the NYC Garment district is leading the charge.

First of all, I want to emphasize that I truly believe that durability is the absolutely best way to make responsible use of the fabrics we purchase.  Make something that will last until you have either worn it to pieces, hand it down, pass it on to friends or family, or donate it to a thrift shop.  That is the best we can ask for, no matter what a garment is made of.

Aside from that, I have noticed bamboo Fabrics at NY Elegant, which are delightfully soft and wonderful to touch.

I also visited a few eco-friendly fabric suppliers at last year's DG Expo.  The businesses are not local, but they do sell in smaller quantities, so you would be able  to obtain and sample their offerings that way.

KenDor Textiles is a Canadian company, offering a variety of Eco-friendly fabrics, including:

Organic Cotton
Bamboo
Hemp
Recycled Polyester (Repreve*)

Zen Tex is a company with a New York Garment District Showroom, selling wholesale (1 roll minimums) to the trade. Among their offerings are:

• Broadcloths
• Voiles/Lawns
• Yarn Dyes
• Oxfords
• Gauze/Double Cloths
• Twills/Herringbones
• Canvas
• Dobbies

Other items include:

• Recycled Polyester
• Hemp
• Linen
• Lyocell/Tencel® (from wood pulp cellulose)

Indigo Handloom, spotted at this year's DG Expo, offers some heart-stoppingly beautiful eco friendly products.  The company's own mission statement is below:

Indigo Handloom has thousands of unique handwoven fabrics in its collection. We work with several different areas in South Asia and work in all natural fibers including all varieties of silk, cotton, wool and linen. Our fabrics require no energy to be made - besides the energy and expertise of our master weavers. By choosing handloom fabrics over machine-milled fabric, reduces the carbon footprint of your products as well as employs nine times as many people.

What this shows, in my opinion, is that responsible manufacturing and sustainability are not fads, but the way things are moving. For that, I am glad.

I have spoken at length on this subject in a recent post, detailing a local event on "The Future of Fashion", and challenging people to thing differently about how/what we wear/use/create/consume.