Baltimore, MD Association of Sewing and Design Professionals conference

  Heading off to meet with colleagues, my fellow Board Members, and friends in Baltimore, MD for a few days of conference, meetings, and events. I'll share my personal experience on Instagram! (@shopthegarmentdistrict)

Fashion Unraveled Symposium... A mountain of things I haven't told you...

I don't want to exhaust you with this, but the symposium I attended this past Saturday set my creative and artisanal brain on ABSOLUTE fire.

Where do I even begin?

Okay, we all reach the creative point where we start to analyze why we do what we do.  Does it matter?  Is it silly or frivilous?  Why is this so important to me?

Maybe you bristle when you make something you feel is lovely (which, truth be told, is ALL that matters), and someone says something that indicates that they have missed the point entirely.  People are often impressed when I simplify an item I've made, by just stating that it was "custom made", and then, when they wanna know where to buy it, I reveal that I am the maker.  Then, I get the looks of "You must be crazy to make your own shoes!", or "Why aren't you doing this as a business?"

But, really, those are my own issues.  I do make things for people, lead tours, consult and source when I am the right person for the job, but this whole area of my life is so much bigger than that.  What i am beginning to tell you, could probably be a novel's worth of information, but I'll put it here, because I need to process and express it, even if it isn't widely read or commented on...  Sick with me, and I'll just add to this post in parts, until I'm done.  How long with that take?  I dunno.  Let's see....

Truly, Madly. Deeply - Rei Kawakubo

Part of the "War" grouping of pieces.

Where do I begin? Let's see...

Okay, let me begin by saying that I love Rei Kawakubo like nobody loves Rei Kawakubo.  We have a history, she and I.  I wrote (and kept) a paper I feverishly, passionately wrote as a high school student about her work and the magic I felt when I first viewed it. I went to this exhibit this weekend, with my kids in tow, and again, melted at the sight of her beautiful work. My son, not nearly as interested as I, sat just outside of the exhibit (for a great reason I will explain in a bit), and my artist daughter navigated the space by by side... well... kinda.

Where is it? The Metropolitan Museum of Art.  See link for more info.  Note: Remember that the entrance fee is only suggested, so don't let the price stop you. No need to be embarrassed, either.  They will let you in, with no judgement at whatever price you are willing/able to pay.  What is this kind of thing worth to me?  About a MILLION dollars, but that's just me!  And no, I don't have a spare million...

This exhibit is hardly navigable.  It requires you to squeeze through uncomfortable spaces, peer at important work through strangely shaped cubbyhole openings, gaze up uncomfortably from strange vantage points you must find on your own, and repeatedly murmur "excuse me" as you weave through the crowd.  

I had to ask myself, was Rei Kawakubo (if asked) happy with this layout?  My son, while completely respectful of my interest in it, opted not to join this tangled crowd to see the work, as it just "isn't his thing". (Well, that, and he really came along for the skateboarding opportunities in Central Park afterward...) What he did do (on his own), was pay very close attention to the reactions of the people who were coming out of the exhibit.  People were endlessly questioning why they didn't even think to put arrows on the floor, to give some guidance through this maze.  While it was (still is) a holiday weekend, did they not anticipate that it could be a bit crowded?

So there are what were most photographable among the pieces we saw:

This piece, while interesting to me, reminded my daughter of the "Turtle Shirt" skit from Saturday Night Live (below)

Scattered among the exhibit, were these titles... giving a bit of food for thought, with descriptions as cryptic as cryptic could possibly be.

Each section of the exhibit was labeled with a similarly contrasting title, like the exhibit map  below:

Reminded my daughter of an Ellen Degeneres act...

A folded, newspaper-like map and explanation of the "scenes" were handed to the guests upon entry.  I would have benefitted from a printed summary or video to introduce the ideas, so that I might have some time to digest it a bit before viewing.  I really don't think this exhibit could have been considered self-explanatory.

Birth/death/marriage were all presented with an artistically somber tone...

And... I am so happy that this work is also intended to amuse, because my daughter, a teenaged artist, who is also HILARIOUS, gave me a million reasons to laugh as we stumbled through the space.

"Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the In-Between" examines nine expressions of "in-betweenness" in Kawakubo's collections... It reveals how her designs occupy the spaces between these dualities - which have come to be seen as natural rather than social or cultural - and how they resolve and dissolve binary logic."

Mission accomplished.  I wholeheartedly endorse this exhibit.

I just think there should be direction arrows on the floor and an printed intro or video on the wall to help orient the visitors.

So... in a nutshell, see it.  If you have a curious mind, a giggle in your heart, and a moment to spare, just see it!

"99 Problems But a ___ ain't one" - On filling in the blanks -- A Teen's Perspective

Updated post

*Note: If you don't know, those are the lyrics of a famous Jay-Z song...

My son is a Jay-Z fanatic.  And well, frankly, I can't blame him.  His lyrical abilities are absolutely Shakespearian. I wish there were someone better with clean lyrics.  In my experience so far, there isn't. I really hate all the "bleeping".  It feels like a verbal assault on me AND my kids.  We know what you're bleeping.  Seriously, what's the point?

My daughter's sketch of my son

I'm not so sure that it isn't even a greater horror to hear my "wittle" 13 year-old girl sing ALL the words to Maroon 5's song, "Animals".

Perfectly...

I know artists love to say they don't write these songs for kids, but the songs are out there.  In the world.  And our kids are out there.  In the world.  The radio plays on the school bus, from cars driving down the streets, on the radio.  And not just once.  Over and over and over...

"Even when they bleep the words out," I said to her, "it's no mystery what they're saying.  There have to be more subjects to cover than all of this profanity and sexual stuff."

Yes, my inner "old fogey" is coming out.  I was a Prince fan at 13 - and, yeah, that's probably worse...

"But I don't think that's an example of a good song," she said.
"I agree," I said, relieved.
"No, I mean the actual QUALITY of the song."
"I agree," I sighed, even more relieved...

"It's kinda like those reading comprehension tests where they ask you to fill in the blanks.  Why would they think we don't know what words they're replacing?"

Time: About 9PM, January 13, 2015

See the idea behind "Teen Perspective" posts here.

See most recent "Teen Perspective" post here.

By the way, her favorite songs are also some of mine (examples here, here, and everything Pink could ever sing...), so I like her choices of downloads, to which we are (happily) privy!

The night began with a brainstorming session on the teen's IPod Touch "WaistCase" (her term).

"Let's call it a belt/bag hybrid" she said.

"The belt should still be a belt, even if I'm not carrying the bag.  But I should be able to wear it like a purse, too, since I'm not always wearing something that uses a belt."

Hmmmm...  An online search yielded nothing similar to what we were thinking.  Also, we decided it shouldn't be so limiting in its use and/or how it is worn.

"It should have a MetroCard pocket", I said.  (My fellow NYC peeps understand that.)

*Side note: Everything I make for myself has a MetroCard pocket.

Solid, dark color (like black).  No bright colors or designs needed or wanted.

Sideways orientation to easily access volume control.  Space for earbud cord to pass through.

Should close with a zipper.

Needs to be durable, with gentle padding. So it's a plan...

What supplies did we use?

I retired an old pair of black jeans that were falling apart for the fabric.  "Aged denim seems right." she said. 

Left-over bonded leather, purchased at Fashion Design Books (for a different project), makes a great protective layer, and gives the case more of a firm body. 

Bonded leather between the layers adds cushioning, to protect the device from getting knocked around...

We just eyeballed the measurements after tracing the ipod on the fabric and allow some wiggle room.
Not much thought/precision was needed.  Belt loops on back, reclaimed jeans pocket on front.

All done! We already have a black strap with clips attached, which can turn this into an across-the-chest pouch, too.

Happy kid.  After school, she put her IPod in the pouch and started her own personal dance party immediately. 

Are you a designer? Get inspired...

Imogene and Willie is a jeans manufacturer that could have grown anywhere.  Listen to the story, and get inspired.

I see this story as a direct response to my "As Yet Untitled" blog post.

After absorbing this information, I invite you to the seminar.

I suspect your objection may be that it can't be done here.  Allow me to correct you...

There's a "garment district" of sorts emerging in Brooklyn...  You can read about it here and here...

After all, we are all makers, aren't we?

A revelation...

This post is a continuation of the thoughts expressed in the As Yet Untitled post.

Since writing that post, and reading all of the comments, I have become aware of the fact that many Americans complain about the lack of quality, affordable, American-made clothing, but, if we really care as much as we claim, we would build factories, invest in quality equipment, training and technology, make an effort to gather ready and willing employees, and financial incentives to produce here... but we aren't.

Last week, I had the opportunity to meet with the CEO of a company working closely with a large textile and clothing manufacturing company in China.  A completely vertical operation, they seek American designers, run custom fabric production using those designers' desired prints, develop and produce those designs in China, and sell those completed designs in Asia, where the market is hungry for American style clothing.

Who would say no to this?

Labor, fabric, and distribution at a fraction of the cost to produce and try to sell it right here?  There is no economic argument for doing it here, unless you produce luxury goods at luxury prices.

After running the numbers, comparing an attempt to produce locally with this alternative, I can't see how anyone could argue for  trying to do any large-scale production here.  And the biggest companies - the very successful ones?  they are already moving on to Egypt.  Everyone just keeps pushing to find a new frontier. 

I haven't quite figured out whether this is a bad thing.  It does distribute wealth, after all...

What I learned in this meeting was interesting.  The general public wants inexpensive clothing in quantity. It has to be the right clothing for your lifestyle, needs, and budget.  

Wanna be artistic?  Wanna march to the beat of your own drummer?  Make things for yourself (if you can do it well, do it, since this is a very economical choice, vs. locally made!), or, if you are a designer, do small production or truly artistic pieces locally, assuming your products can attract a price that the right customers will pay.

On a thoughtful note, read this article about Nannette Lepore, notice that it was written two years ago, and look at this one from a year ago, noticing where the company produces their more intricate items now (15% of production), and noticing what their locally made dresses cost.

We have to care enough about local production to buy it, don't we?  Is that locally made promise enough to make those of us who can, open our wallets a bit wider?  Only time will tell...

Where are the jobs?

A better question... Where is the work?  It is everywhere.  And there is lots of it to be done.

Recent weeks have connected me with some truly talented people in the district, and given me opportunities to learn about what they do and why they do it.  It has been a fascinating education.  People spend so much time lamenting the demise of the garment district, its real estate woes, and the economy. While all of these are valid concerns, there are some really beautiful businesses employing workers whose heads are down, immersed in serious work, earning pay, fully engaged in the art of making things, or the business of doing so.

Truth: Some of us just love to make things, somehow being professionally involved with companies who make things, or have something to do with the fashion industry here in New York. Learn the names of the jobs you want to do.  Production assistant?  Design Assistant?  Patternmaking?  Know what the job you seek is called.

I read a book long ago, since destroyed after one of our NY hurricanes or something - I forget which recent disaster created the random basement flood... entitled, Zen and the Art of Making a Living.  A beautifully peaceful book about life and all of the challenges and joys associated with making a living, it really speaks to the working creatives among us.





I also read a book entitled The Business Side of Creativity, where, even though the book isn't about the garment industry, much of the information applies, and one particular sentence impacted me profoundly (paraphrased),

"Remember, while you are looking for opportunities, opportunities are looking for you."

• Think about freelancing

Lots of businesses need the help, but cannot find the talent. Sometimes they aren't full businesses, but large, intense projects, where freelance help is needed.  Find out about unions for costume designers and productions, so that you know when the question, "Is this a Union set?" applies.  There are lots of reasons why that is important - I could write a blog-novel on that stuff alone...  Where do you find internship opportunities?  If you're not in school, leave the house and ask.  Find the places you want to work, learn about them, go in, and start conversations.  And no, the conversation is not, "Are you hiring interns for this summer?  No?  Okay..."  It is asking about what they do, how they do it, whether they can always find enough help, if they need help, need an intern, need YOU?

• Think about internships

Ahhh, internships. You have to evaluate internship opportunities with a careful eye.  An internship is meant to serve an educational benefit for the intern, and a work benefit for the company.  When the two don't meet, you can end up with a situation like the one detailed in this article , detailing an internship gone wrong.

Once you've done your homework, try these resources.

Consider an interview to be a MUTUAL exchange of wants and needs, so they can see the real you, the value you bring, and the opportunity you seek.

Then, visit your school's internship placement office/site/bulletin board (if you're a student), and/or visit these sites:

www.internsushi.com
www.linkedin.com
www.internQueen.com

• Think about what you can do for yourself

Since 1996, I have owned and managed a website listing self-employed dressmakers and sewing professional across the United States and abroad.  If you want to list yourself on my Find a Dressmaker site, list yourself by following this link.  Note: Listings are paid, not free, and for a specified length of time.

• More resources:

WeConnectFashion is a site with plenty of links for job seekers and fashion professionals alike.  A wealth of information available to you there.

NYC Fashion Info The name says it all, right?  Visit the page to learn more.

Above all, think positively, keep dreaming, and know that no matter what, people will continue to get dressed every single day.

Ivy Style exhibit at FIT... oh wait... a book fair!

Although I had known about the exhibit for quite some time, I just managed to go visit the FIT museum recently, to experience the Ivy Style exhibit.  I wasn't particularly jazzed to see this one, since I don't really get the aesthetic, the meaning, the significance... even after reading the blurbs on the walls of the exhibit, and supporting information.

However, I will say it was beautifully curated, and the design of the exhibit itself was a beautiful display. But I just wasn't into the clothes. That Thom Browne did do some interesting modern interpretations, though... I must say that was pretty cool! So is his website.  Definitely worth a visit!

But, after it was all said and done, I found out about something else at FIT.

Did you know there was a three-day book fair going on? The description and mission are clearly explained here.

Now, this is something that really jazzes me... wish I had known to plan for this fair. It does have a fee, but, apparently, you can also pay at the door!  Because it doesn't start until tonight, you can actually still go, and not miss a second of it!