Showing posts with label Botani. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Botani. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Peaceful warrior jacket

You know how I always say fabric has no expiration date?  Well, thanks, to Kashi in particular .... and here's proof... FIVE YEARS LATER.  The beige for the jacket lining was some leftover from lining my cradle bag, years ago.  My zipper was purchased in a Botani zipper craze (resulting the jacket I posted about some time ago, if you follow that link)...  And that pink fabric - I know it was a remnant once, which tends to be a rare choice for me.... but from where???? I remember it rolled, and such a gentle shade, with a warm fuzzy glow about it... 

So... I just made a jacket for myself that is MEANT to be strewn about.  It requires no particular care,  and looks fine rumpled and simply thrown on. Comfortable as any jacket could be, it has five main features:
  • A back slit
  • An "absent" collar
  • A flat bow
  • a collapsible/removable hood
  • Elbow crescent sleeve dart







May it stay with me forever. Or... just long enough for me to tire of it.

Saturday, April 15, 2017

Where to find coutil in the garment district

** Reposting (From hundreds (600) of posts, it is silly never to repost, right?)

We get stuck on names and labels for things. Armed with sewing books, dictionaries and lexicons, we scour the district, searching every store for the thing we've been told we need...


Coutil (or Coutille) is woven cloth created specifically for making corsets.] It is woven tightly to inhibit penetration of the corset's bones and resist stretching. Coutil has a high cotton content. Cotton has good dimensional stability, or a resistance to stretching, which makes it a good choice for such a stressed garment. Coutil may be made to be plain (similar to 100% cotton facing), satin, or brocade. It is common for coutil to have a herringbone texture, or a similar woven texture.
- from Wikipedia

Order coutil via mail from Richard the Thread or Farthingales


Shopper:
"Do you have any coutil for sale?"

Fabric store employee (annoyed):
"Cou- wha?"

Coutil, when sold specifically by name, is a firmly woven cotton with a herringbone weave, used for foundation garments.  

That's why no one knows what you are talking about.  

The fabric is specifically designed for use in corset-making. Can't find it? You'll have a hard time finding a good substitute, although some poeple use duck or twill when they only want to mimic the look of a corset, and not necessarily rely on its functional role in a properly made corset. Word on the street is that it has no equal. It is strong, it breathes, and not many other fabrics will serve as a suitable substitute.

So, where do you find coutil in the garment district?  In my experience so far, you don't!  Order online from Farthingales or Richard the Thread, but get the rest of your supplies right here in NYC.

Now, once you've got the  right supplies to make your garment function as it should, get as fancy as you like with supplies to make it beautiful from some of our favorite garment district haunts:  







Wednesday, January 25, 2017

Led a Speakeasy today (1/20) oh... and today (1/21) - oh and writing about it today (1/25)!

Took a while to begin writing this post... why?

Life's been a bit busy, I'd say!  Well, actually, that's a wildly inaccurate understatement, as I've done nothing but push through appointments, lead tours, and pound out piles of work over the past two weeks or so... but I digress...

I led two Speakeasies last week, and, just as an aside, I must mention my obsession with Wasabi, a UK based fast-food sushi place on the corner of 40th and 7th, that does their job so perfectly, I don't even know how to adequately express my fascination with it.  The lovely bites are always perfectly fresh (whether vegetable or fish) and beautifully presented in meticulously artful to-go (or stay) arrangements, and wonderfully priced for what is offered.  I really enjoy dining in or taking out, and just the speed and efficiency of this place make the whole experience enjoyable. Great energy food, by the way.

So... What happened on the Speakeasies?  Frankly, we all saw too many great things to crunch them into one blog post, so I will list the highlights... (Note: I'm mixing the days together, so not everyone saw the same stores... There's only so much time in a day!)

Botani - Have you seen their new fabric space? We (speakeasiers) casually walked past a sign boasting customizeable fabrics, just to take a peek... I asked the question, "What do your mean, customize?" - I got the answer.  All of the aspects you weren't even thinking were customizeable.  Color? Yup.  Your own color? Not a color card they give you?  Yup.  Fiber content? Yup?  Custom blend? Yup.  Okay, so they will go pretty far to meet your specifications.  When you're done you've got something no one can duplicate, because no one else had it made for them!  Totally unique.  Others can imitate, of course, but that takes time, research and investment... good luck with that, right?

Pacific Trimmings had a delightful arrangement of clasps and wildly fun things as usual. The rainbow toothed RiRi zipper option was a fun sighting, as it always is!

C&J - wowza.  As always.  A special look at the prints and specials on the shelves made the visit wildly inspiring.

B&J - Do they ever disappoint?  Nope.  I don't think so. What a glorious selection of cottons, ponte knits, printed silks, unusual blends, and beautiful colors!

MJ Trimming - While they have reduced some space and inventory, they still have great stuff to offer!  The clearance area is also particularly interesting!

NY Elegant - Upstairs always yields surprises, the rack of panels always yields sighs, and the main floor... need I say more?

Fabrics & Fabrics - What a joy. Whoever is pulling out rolls of "special" goods to highlight on the floor is REALLY doing his/her job right!

Okay, while I could list about seven or eight more stores, it was a blast for all of us on both days! Really intense visits in a tight sequence with no wasted time, tired legs, and heads spinning! It was a true fabric lovers' celebration!




Monday, September 19, 2016

On seeking software solutions to hardware problems...

Inspired by a sketch I saw in an antique sewing book I own,,,
I decided to make my own bag, using that design aa a springboard for an idea

I called it my "cradle bag"


An idea that kept me awake at night some years ago, was this "cradle bag", with an interchangeable "shell" that could transform the bag into a million different versions of itself.  So I designed it.

But... the straps always made it feel amateurish and homemade to me, so I found myself not carrying it too often.  Depite being neatly sewn and efficient, they just weren't graceful.

One thing I have been finding lately, is that making projects has always made me seek sewn solutions to making functional appendages work, when in reality, the "hardware" already exists to give the project the polish it needs.

I had already used Star Snaps (316 West 39th Street - no website) for my grommet installation on the "cradle" shell you see pictured and some others (not shown).


That's where Botani comes in...

Clasps!


Lobster clasps from Botani (where my bag's beautiful zipper was also obtained) and ready-made bag handles from Joyce together are just what my bag needed to function with strength and beauty, and disassemble on command to change out the look!

Another example/thought:

It occurred to me that the difference between a beautiful piece of fabric I'm reluctant to cut and a beautiful, flowing skirt made of that fabric, is a great piece of elastic. A simple cylinder, pulled in to fit the waist with elastic, can be my favorite wardrobe staple, if well done. 

What am I waiting for?

Clearly, a trip to Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, where the elastic is of superior quality.  Am I just saying that?  No.  Geek that I am, I actually did a REAL test at home, gauging stretch, resilience, softness, and strength, using my own tools and supplies.  Manhattan Wardrobe Supplies won, hands down.

Not all elastic is created equal.
Can you get quality elastic elsewhere?  Sure. But here's the thing: you want BETTER for your garments, clients, and your own needs, don't cha? 

My point here is simple.  Sometimes I seek the sewn ("soft") solution for an area that may be better served with better equipment, materials, or even a hard ("hardware") component. That hard component can often give me the professional look I need.

Tuesday, November 24, 2015

The reveal (see previous post)

Not many words, really.  Just the photos.  I'm proud of it.  It isn't mine, and I nearly tear up at the thought of having to part with it.

As detailed in my previous post, the fabric was purchased at Rosen & Chadick (double faced wool), Metro Textiles (lining), fur (NY Elegant) and zipper (Botani).  I hand sculpted this jacket.  No pattern.

Many hours, lots of sweat, tears... a bit of blood, too. I took no shortcuts, and it was commissioned by a beloved friend/client, so I hope she loves it as much as I do!


My headless dress form wears a hood...
A magical, warm lining... this jacket is for cold Michigan winters!


To carry the weight of the hood on the shoulders while keeping the fur away from the neck, I created a "rolled stand" (my own term), and made the edges of the hood angle upwards (away from the collar), so it wouldn't be too confining.)


a bound pocket


Keep warm, everyone... and happy Thanksgiving!









Thursday, November 19, 2015

And then what happened? (Today in the district... and a project that grew from a dreamy Rosen & Chadick swatch...

Yes, we've had some silence for a bit.  I've been VERY BUSY.

I'm in a great mood right now.  A truly fantastic mood. After battling flu-like symptoms and fatigue for who knows how long now (I honestly lost track of how long I've been sick, just caught up in the daily scramble of life), but today (11/17 when I started writing this) I woke up feeling like a million bucks in every single way.


Thank God. And I mean that sincerely.

The day before yesterday, these things were said to me:


  • "Don't you dare apologize for your process.  You are amazing!" (said to me by someone who was watching me show a jacket that has taken a long time to finish to its intended wearer.) He made my day.

  • "I was calling to thank you for recommending me... I got the job!" (said to me by a former design studio coworker, whose work is UH-MAY-ZING)



  • "Remember, you gave me some advice a year ago?  I followed it!  Thank you!" (said to me by someone who confidently asked her employer for what she needed... and got it!)



  • "You should take some medicine... This will help your symptoms." (That one was said to me by my husband last night (11/16) before giving me a cup of Nyquil-type stuff that finally put a lid on this cold!)



So, here's an idea of some sewing-related things that have been going on...







Remember the "Waist Case", profiled here and pictured above? It is now, officially, the cool alternative to the fanny pack of the 80's for our family. It has become a daily necessity in my daughter's life, outperforming all purchased solutions, keeping her daily essentials accessible. So glad we devised this, and that it works.



Remember when I told you I fell in love with the double faced wool fabric (above, right)?  Well, it has since married some other things (like the wonderful, cozy fabric from Kashi at Metro Textiles on the left, above, that will become its lining), got some good, heavy, separating zippers cut to size at Botani... (It only costs $1 per zipper to have it cut, with stops perfectly reapplied while you wait, by the way.)





and got a great fake fur to frame the hood... 


It took about 10 stores to find just the right fur, but I found this at NY Elegant

and it became... see next post...





Saturday, January 3, 2015

Happy New Year! - The January 2 Speakeasy Tour

Since there are no Speakeasies planned for the near future (as I work on the uber-project, the Grandest Speakeasy EVER, scheduled for this spring), I want to share some details from yesterday's event.  After yesterday's trip,  I remain really creatively inspired, and excited to share some of the things we discovered along our journey yesterday!

And a big special THANK YOU to Cindy, who helped lead the group, and offered her always brilliant, friendly, expert advice and encouragement to the group! I truly adore her, and have known her forever...

It amazes me every time, but I am often as inspired by my tour participants as they are inspired by the fabulous things we see in the stores, and yesterday was truly no exception...

Exhibit A:

One of the tour participants was really jazzed by a photo of a very expensive "glove clutch" she had seen.  Inspired by the idea, but intimidated by what could be a complicated labor-intensive project, I thought about ... (I have tried desperately to make great gloves in the past) I stumbled upon these in an internet search (link to original below)...  I adore this bag!

Perrin Paris glove clutches

Note: If I were to use this idea as a springboard for my own, I would go to Leather, Suede, Skins for the leather, Botani or Pacific for the hardware and such, and Joann fabrics (online or in person) for what I have found to be the best stabilizing materials for the bags I make (The fusible interfacing used for lampshades, and plastic mesh - I fuse the interfacing to a stiff muslin to make the structural inner layer of my bags.)


Exhibit B:

Let's say you make quilts, as two of yesterday's participants do.  Where to go in the garment district certainly isn't obvious, but there are many places that have lovely, creative offerings for quilters.  Now, there are some obvious spots to visit; Mood and City Quilter among them, but I must say that Rosen and Chadick, Chic Fabrics and NY Elegant had some awesome cottons suitable for quilting, too!

Exhibit C:


You can find silk gazar, like the fabric used to create this Oscar de la Renta Gown  in rich colors at Fabrics & Fabrics

What if you love bold colors and textures?  One of our participants was such a delightful enthusiast of very bold oranges, purples and greens -- she found plush velvets and wonderful prints that were so exciting! There are some stores with gasp-worthy colors, panel prints, and textures right now.  Check the display window of NY Elegant, and you'll see what I mean!  Paron, Fabrics and Fabrics, and Rosen and Chadick all had delightful offerings in these categories as well!

Exhibit C:



And seriously, shop with a rolling suitcase.  Or you'll learn the hard way... That's how the pros do it... am I right???  And, when you get home, you say to anyone who has a problem with the amount of fabric you bought.... "You should have seen what the rest of them bought!!!!  FAR more than I did!!!!" (giggle...)

If you are longing to go fabric shopping or browsing, here are some must-sees for you right now:


  • Check out the fabulous chunky cut & sew sweater knit at Paron Fabrics(immediately!)
  • Look at the fabric panels on the long wall of Fabrics & Fabrics
  • Check out the double-faced wool (green/charcoal) at Rosen & Chadick
  • Check out the special panels hanging on the rack near the counter at NY Elegant
  • Check put the great houndstooth wools at Chic Fabrics
  • Check out the variety of unique zippers, pulls, buttons and other notions at Botani
  • Check out the novelty button offerings and hot fix crystals at Joyce

Happy New Year, and enjoy your creative adventures, whatever they may be!





Wednesday, July 10, 2013

The cradle

I'll start with the reveal.  Slouchy leather inner bag, with a firm outer "cradle".  This is not one bag, but, potentially 10 (more, if I go crazy!), since I can change the cradle as my whims dictate! 

While I could go on and on about the details, the mistakes, the challenges... in the immortal words of Sweet Brown, "Ain't nobody got time fuh dat!"  (Just YouTube it if you don't know... yes, complete nonsense) So here goes...

My new bag, below:





I had been long inspired by this illustration, in a sewing book from the late 1800's...

Featuring this divine matelasse from Elliott Berman Textiles ...

Note: It was the fabric from Elliott Berman that cried out to me to make this bag. I adore the look and texture of this fabric, and just felt it should never hide from anyone, EVER.

Some fabulous, soft leather from Mood...

And this fabric I used as a lining from Truemart

Grommets/eyelets added at Star Snaps

Lampo zipper from Botani

Assembled bag, with removable "cradle"
The cradle slides through the reinforced base, which is permanently secured to the bag.  The handles travel through the grommets on the cradle, and are attached to the exterior of the leather bag.  The straps are removable, to allow coordination with different cradles.

Not easy, not cheap... but for about $140 worth of materials, and any other fabrics I may want to incorporate in the future, I can make as many bags as I like.  So, while I am not a person who buys pricey bags (and this one, in materials AND labor, if made for a client, would be quite pricey!), it becomes quite a bargain once I've made 5 or more of them!

By the way, it is HILARIOUS to see it all in just a few simple pictures here, compared to how many fits and starts it took to make it!
Side note: Another great strap option for a different "cradle".  These straps are sold at Joyce Trimming. 

So, whaddya think?  I'm interested in the full spectrum of comments, so feel free to say what improvements you think you would make as well!

Wanna fabric shop with me?  Come along on a Speakeasy tour!




Wednesday, January 9, 2013

NYC Notions/Fabric/Unique Service store: Botani Trimmings Inc.

Note: Botani Trimmings has been reviewed here in the past, but I am seeing this place in a new light after last week's visit.  Read on for why...

Botani Trimming, Inc.
263 West 36th Street
New York, NY 10018
www.botanitrim.com
(212) 244-3222
Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM

Ever feel like you're missing something?  I certainly felt like I was, when I heard the occasional chatter about Lampo zippers.  Quite pricey by comparison to your standard YKK and other garment district offerings, I believed that their appeal was that they are fancier, indulgent, and sleek-looking, almost like jewelry on a bag or garment, which explains the higher prices (be prepared to spend at least $13 or more for one, depending on the type).

But... no.  I was wrong. That's mot really it. And now I get it.  And realizing that now, there are garments I made in the past that I wish I could reach back to retrieve and improve with these fabulous zippers.

How did I come to this revelation?  On a whim, I walked into Botani Trimmings, Inc, which I never pass on my usual routes in the garment district, and asked the question I had been sorta embarrassed to ask. I mean, when someone says "Chanel" to you, you normally just shut up, assuming it is out of your league, right?  Note: Visit the site to see better pictures of the place and products than I am capable of.

The lovely salesperson who greeted me, enthusiastically ushered me over to a wall of zippers, inviting me to test and experience the smooth flow of the zippers, check the teeth, appreciate the weight and durability of the tape.  Yes, it is obvious.  These are quality zippers.  The pull is definitely there to stay.  The open end, closed end, and double slider zips and vast variety of tape colors can certainly satisfy your quality zipper needs.

While standing there in the store, my mind jumped to a client for whom I made a 60's style Steve McQueen-like racing jacket.  He wanted his original duplicated, which had been made in Italy, and was now just impossible to find.  One of the first things my client mentioned, was that the right zipper was key to the project.  I found a quality zipper, which he vetoed, so we used the one from his original jacket... but THESE zippers... oh THESE zippers, were clearly what he meant, had I known.

Original racing jacket, made in Italy

Original racing jacket, well-worn, but perfect.

Duplicate I made with modern materials.


So, who uses Lampo Zippers?

Referred to as the "Ferrari" of zippers, Lampo has been used by designers like Balenciaga, Chanel, Prada, and more.  High-end designer bags often use Lampo zippers.  Check the pull, and you may find the engraved "Lampo" name.

When would it make sense to use a Lampo zipper?  

When you expect the item to last a long  time, and you don't want to ever replace the zipper.
When it needs to be durable, and of quality.
When you want the quality of the zipper to match the quality of the materials used to make the item.
When you want to replace the zipper in an item that used this type/quality of zipper.

The company clearly has a long, rich history.  Enough so that you feel like you've attended a lecture after visiting their website. An odd little Fellini-esque video can be found on the Italian site, too, with some Italian poetry included... but really, you don't need a Rosetta Stone course to appreciate it.

Since their expansion, in addition to their fashion hardware (aptly named) selection, Botani has a leather department, and will now, not only provide the supplies, or even perform the repair on handbags, but they will actually create a custom handbag based on your design.  I can feel a collective push from you readers as you scream "Get outta here!", but no, I'm serious! The particularly elegant layout may feel a bit intimidating to the uninitiated, but you can totally go in and ask any silly question you want, and get treated with complete respect.

So, now you know.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Botani Expands, Adds Leather Department

Botani Trimmings is wooing the handbag design market with a sophisticated new leather department.

[Apologies for going so long between posts. I've been on vacation in the antithesis of New York City—rural northern Maine.]

Botani Trimmings, known for its luxury trims and buttons, has expanded and added an extensive leather department to woo the handbag design market. The Garment District store is now an entire block wide, with entrances on W. 36th and W. 37th Streets. According to Botani's website, handbag sample making and production are available without minimums.

This new leather department is an attractive addition to the Garment District. If you're thinking about handbag design or sewing with leather, I'd add Botani to your list of must-visit suppliers.

Speaking of leather, I've been thinking about sewing with leather this fall and so am trying to make it around to the places that sell leather in the Garment District. I've been to Leather, Suede & Skins on W. 35th and to Mood's small leather nook, and I plan to visit Leather Impact on W. 38th soon. A complete write-up to follow here.

Readers, have you ever sewn leather before? Any tips you'd care to share here?

You can get leather overload at Botani—there's so much to see.
Reptile looks are hot for fall.


Wednesday, November 10, 2010

NYC Trim Store Review: Botani

Address: 263 W. 36th Street, NYC
Phone: 212-244-3222
Hours: Monday - Friday, 9 am to 6 pm. Closed weekends.
Online store: Botani Trim
Best for: Handbag hardware, and buttons, and for anyone who appreciates a well-edited and well-lighted trim store

Trims and fashion hardware are obviously selling well in the Garment District. Mood Fabrics expanded its trim department about a year ago and now Botani, long known for its buttons, has leased the retail space next door and added a new fashion hardware section. Plus they've turned some office space in the back of the store over to Lampo zippers and trims.