New York Fabric and Trim Show - Updated!

You won't believe me when I tell you this, but the first picture below what you are reading is... fabric.  

Really.

It is.

There are no gems in the photo below.  This is a simple photo of the fabric, laid on the table. I took this picture with my phone. The fabric is a digital print.  I don't know if this print has a name, but I've decided to call it "Bling", and frankly, you've gotta see it to believe it.

Elliott Berman

I've been to this show (formerly called "DG Expo") before, but this time was different. I visited the show on Thursday (1/19), looked at the offerings of many businesses familiar to me from previous shows, noted the absence of many others I have seen over the years, but had very interesting conversations and creativity-fueling introductions and idea bubbles with businesses I had not encountered before, that really got my wheels turning. The fairly light attendance made the vendors hungry to talk and engage, and anyone visiting the show benefitted from that.

I'll just have to summarize the rest at this point, or this post will become a novel!

I ADORED so many of the fantastic offerings from Elliott Berman. The two fabrics below offer just a sliver of the great fabrics they have to offer.  Some sold out at the show VERY quickly, but believe me, there are still enough other choices to light anyone's fire.

Elliott Berman

Elliott Berman

While this was the true highlight of my experience there that day, I also discovered a few businesses I did not know about before. 

This post is being written gradually.  I am going through my notes and goodies, posting as I go... Visit again later, and there will be more updates!

Benno's Buttons

I found an interesting Texas-based business, Benno's Buttons and Trimmings, which had a really intriguing arrangement of steampunk buttons on the display table.  Beyond the steampunk collection, they had a lovely and interesting button assortment that drew me in.  While there is no shortage of button businesses in the garment district, the uniqueness of their offerings, friendliness of the vendor, new website, and tiny minimal order requirements make them particularly appealing to small businesses, and businesses outside of New York City. Be sure to visit the website, to get a feel for how well curated their button offerings are.

Rainbow Leather

Psst...They have a showroom in College Point, Queens, too... (By appointment... and that only matters to those who dare to venture, but I find it kinda exciting! )  Check out the website, and you will see that they do a lot with textures, painting, and perforations. Really interesting samples at the display table, and they are very serious about what they do!

Planet Bling

Normally, I really wouldn't care about this kind of stuff, but this business (in addition to having some really dynamic personalities representing them) had some very high quality transfer work on the display pieces exhibited at their vendor table.  Intricate detail, in vibrant colors, navigating tight corners and curves...  For promotional goods, patches and stuff, I would sincerely consider them.  Visit their website here.

Yara African Fabric

What a lovely display of sturdy African fabrics, which are hitting a trendy high note right now.  Website is absolutely worth visiting.

Basic Adhesives

Interesting for a variety of reasons.  Serving the handbag, belt, footwear, and leather good production process, this company provides environmentally friendly adhesives and edge stains.  As a sponsor of the Independent Handbag Designer Awards, they have plenty to share about what it takes to make a great one.  On display, was a recommended book by Emily Blumenthal, entitled "Handbag Designer 101" and an offer to try their adhesive and edge stain sample kit, which is only $24.95 INCLUDING shipping and handling.  Great and enthusiastic sales presence, from a confident, and, by all appearances, knowledgeable source!  Visit their site for more info!

So... in a nutshell, worthwhile and very interesting visit.  More information than I can take in, and creative fuel for thought!

Why you should create and/or design your own projects (To be followed by Why you should NOT create and/or design your own projects)

Previous (related) post: Why you should NOT hire a dressmaker

Why should you make your own projects?  Well, I assume you are reading this blog because you already know why.  But I'll gladly give you my opinion, too.

If you are starting from the very basics of sewing/designing/creating, you can take classes or find a tutor, although they are few and far-between these days.  And the beauty of the garment district is that it is full of resources and services that can get you to your finished product without investing in machinery or tools yourself!

Example:

Grommets installed in my "cradle bag" by Star Snaps

Top zipper cut to size by Botani

Have you ever thought about what it means to be unique?  How about "ladylike"?  Well, if that is important to you, you may find it difficult to find in stores without being dowdy, or weird, given today's fashion offerings.  If you want the freedom not to be ladylike or standard, you can find that too, but are you finding what you want?  I am a huge advocate of buying what you love when you find it, but so much of what I've seen is positively yawn-worthy, lately.

Speaking of freedom, how about freedom from wallet-busting current trends?  I am not getting much of what's going on in the fashion landscape right now, but, thank God I can continue to make my own stuff and ignore the rest entirely.

And, well, because HALLOWEEN will come again.

Let's say you haven't been making your own stuff, or you haven't been as productive as you planned to be when you bought all of your supplies, or your poor, neglected stash is screaming your name lately...  Where do you start?

Well, many people start with profoundly ambitious goals, and stop when they feel they have fallen short or failed.  To avoid this cycle, I recommend a very unambitious, unconventional start.

Go to the garment district, WITHOUT planning to spend any money (Yes, ON PURPOSE!).  Treat the stores like a museum visit, and gather ideas.  While in the district, visit the exhibits, idea inspiring spots, and bookstores for images and new inspiration. You will have ideas for embellishing things, ideas for making things, ideas for having things made for you... just ideas.  Buy only what you cannot live without, and, for the rest of it...  sleep on it.  Yes, leave it right there. For a night, a week, or whatever amount of time you need.  The things that really stick with you will still be in your head, and you will need to go back and get them.

The last step of the above detailed plan is dangerous, though.  I'll tell you why...

There are a few stores, and sections of other stores, where you'd really better buy what you fall in love with, because it seriously may be gone later, and I'll tell you which stores those are (based on my own experiences), to save you some heartache:

Paron Fabrics

Metro Textiles

Elliott Berman

Here's the good GREAT thing: Fabric has no expiration date!  So, if you buy it, and practice good storage methods, you are not limited to any short timeframe at all.  Ask me know I know... (smile)

Next post: Why you should NOT Create and/or design your own projects 

Elliott Berman Textiles...

Buckle your seatbelts, folks...  

On my birthday, after attending the David Kelley Talk, I hopped over to the garment district to curate the goods available in the stores I wanted to recommend to my Speakeasy participants.  With the wonderful assistance of Eugenia (below), I found beautiful things at Elliott Berman Textiles. (I was also wearing one of my favorite tops that day!)

I looked at all they had to offer, as their beautiful selection of fabrics grows, and I found some truly exciting things!  Among them, a new collection of organic scarves.  Yes, you heard me correctly - scarves - you can simply wear them just as they are (and they are breathtaking), or you can use them as border yardage on other projects.  A perfect way to make a border for a skirt, tunic, or home dec project, these jacquard weaves are quite elegant, and unusual in color combinations and textures. This is a collection you need to see in person to truly appreciate.

The prevailing themes at E.B. right now are double-faced fabrics, really exciting COLORS and prints, and rich textures.  The wools are out of this world (don't wait until Fall to buy them), and the knits are wildly exciting, too.  Go see them. The quality and resilience of their knits is particularly stellar.

The pictures below (my personal favorites) represent a mere sampling of what beautiful fabrics await you at Elliott Berman right now...

So... there's this black and white basketweave (above) that just sings when seen in a wide expanse or yardage.

I imagine it becoming something like this... (Simplicity 2444 photo below, with edging in a bright, very saturated pop of color).

What colors... oh the colors!

More exciting colors!

blah, blah, blah (meaning, who cares what words I can put to this... the pictures tell you all you need to know!)

Double faced knit

This double faced knit came home with me...

Inspired by this photo (below - can you picture it?) - a contradiction of a casual shirt - using the reverse as a tuxedo-like "dickie" on a very plain shape. i'll have to show the finished product for you to see what I mean, I think...

blah blah blah - who cares?  Again, no words do them justice - just Look at these pictures!

A shimmery denim you really have to feel and see for yourself to know its magic...

A double-faced denim... hmmm....

This (above) could be a two-tone reversible denim jacket for Fall - (I have a unique design idea for reversible pockets in mind for this one) with flat-fell seaming, to make it all flow.

Basic idea,  a masculine looking men's jacket, but for  for me... a woman!

So, all in all, found some great things at Elliott Berman, and I suggest you go there, too!  They are open Monday through Friday only, and are located in an office building.  Take the elevator to the 7th floor and go to your right.  Read this primer before your visit, because the setup is unusual, and it is best to be prepared...

Elliott Berman Textiles

225 W. 35th Street, 7th floor

New York, NYC

Not in New York?  Visit the website! And... be sure to tell us what you found there!

Why a Speakeasy tour is good for you...

Note: My aging eyes are telling me to write a little bigger. Saving things for later because my eyes are tired, is slowly becoming a bit of a habit.  Anyone else experiencing this?  Oh, and yes, I now have my first pair of reading glasses.  A "light prescription" I was told.  (I suspect it's all downhill from here.) Now, if I could only remember to put them on, that would be great...  Actually, where are they????

But I digress...

Years ago, probably about a decade ago now that I think about it (tapping my forehead in amazement!), I read a great book entitled, "The Art of What Works". There is no Kindle copy available, and there are only a few new copies on Amazon.  It is also out-of-print now.  But I bring this subject up to say that the greatest point this book made is that there is "nothing new under the sun", and that successful ideas come from combining ideas that have worked in different combinations to create a new presentation of what are, basically, recycled ideas.  I am particularly jazzed by that concept, and stirs my creative soul.

Every beautiful thing I find in the fabric stores inspires another idea, another thought, or triggers a memory. The stores and services you find there are exponentially more fascinating because of what they do in combination with each other.  I nearly jumped out of my skin with excitement over a fabric I saw at Elliott Berman last week, and I know a fabric I need to buy awaits me at NY Elegant to complete the look.

Because of the beautiful things textile and notions designers have created, and the special skills and machinery many garment district businesses provide, we can use it all as a creative springboard, making new and exciting combinations using this wealth of resources in one special geographic area.

Here's how this applies to the Garment District Speakeasy tours I run. Using only our feet as transportation, the tour is an adventure, an inspiration, and an educational trip to places you wouldn't otherwise know to explore. I have learned that, for me, it is truly not enough to assemble a group of people who love to sew, and lead them in and out of stores.  Much like an art exhibit, to really achieve its goal, the trip has to be a curated journey through stores that work well in combination with each other.  

For example, you may not think you want to sew a coat.  Maybe you've never tried. But a flame may be lit if you see a divine waterproof cashmere (not a myth, there is actually a beautiful camel-colored waterproof cashmere at  B&J Fabrics), and, with the help of the buttonhole makers at Jonathan, or the twist-lock closures at Star Snaps, and the fantastic leather trims at Leather Suede Skins, you've got yourself an amazing garment plan. Suddenly, an idea starts to really take shape (and perhaps haunt your dreams until it is made!).  

Can you find these places on your own?  With much searching, I'm sure you can find these and many more.  There are, after all, approximately 450 garment and sewing related businesses in the district, capable of all sorts of things. If you read this blog, you can find anything that has been recommended here.  If you can avoid visual stimulation overload and garment district creative paralysis, you're good!

But... if you come on a Speakeasy Tour, you get a curated selection of stores, a group of other excited people, personal attention and fabric consultation, lunch, and all the creative fuel you can stand.  Armed with your Speakeasy Map and your own curiousity, you may continue the journey after lunch on your own.

Come along on a Speakeasy, and find out for yourself!

The day schedule for each trip is the same:

10AM - 1PM - 

Shopping (Will include a specifically selected set of stores with a wide variety of offerings suitable for many different purposes/types of garments, appropriate for the theme of the day's tour. Relevant additional information, suggested additional resources and appropriate on-site expertise will be available.)


1PM-2PM


Lunch (included in your fee)


2PM - until end of business day


Armed with your "Secret Map" and your own interest in or desire to visit the many other stores you see or have learned about, you may visit more garment district stores if you wish, and give unique codes (that you'll get from me) to vendors who will give special assistance/discounts.


The cost of these guided, efficient tours is $75 per person, or $90 per person for "Hard Stuff" and "Notions" tours, due to additional professional help and education. If you use this trip to shop and participate in what the NYC garment district has to offer, you will save at least as much as you are paying in supplies and education, and probably far more.


Wanna come? Click below the date you wish to attend, send payment, and the details on meeting time/place will be provided.


From outta town? If you need hotel and/or travel help, I will advise some of the BEST NYC secrets I know! Payment is only accepted via PayPal (you do not need a Paypal account), credit or debit card. No cash, personal checks, or additional payments will be accepted on the day of the tour. The trip will involve a good amount of walking, so come prepared in weather-appropriate gear, and healthy.


Regarding cancellations:
If you have paid and wish to cancel 7 days or more before date - 100% refund
Fewer than 7 days - 50% refund
If you don't come on the scheduled date or cancel within 24 hours or less - you will forfeit your refund, but can switch reservation to a future tour date.
If I cancel a tour for reasons not related to weather, newsworthy acts of God or other emergencies, you are entitled to your choice of a full refund, or a future tour.

I laced myself up...

So, here's the skirt to go with my Yeah, Baby shirt (also known as the Ombré Hombre shirt). Topstitched and casually top-of-knee length, it is just what I want to wear. I decided that I really only want to wear skirts and dresses for the warmer months this year, so that's where I am nowadays... My dress form is flatter than I am, but kinda close to my size, so this is how I am showing it to you. On me, it is completely smooth.

A hearty cotton twill, very denim-like in durability, in a shade of red I desperately needed.

A durable pocket, just right for a MetroCard and whatever  sliver of paper I might wanna carry..

My color story

Special credit to the following vendors:

Rosen & Chadick for dark (my new neutral) red cotton twill.
Elliott Berman Textiles for the very cool T-shirt fabric
Star Snaps for both the grommets and professional insertion
Metro Textiles, because many years ago, Kashi (owner) used to buy some factory notions as well, and I bought a huge roll of poly tape that holds lightweight edges and seams nice and even for me.  You can't see it in my picture, because it is hidden on the inside...

I went to Daytona Trimming for my first lacing idea, holding up the illustration on my fabric for color agreement/harmony, and agonized over a few almost right shades and weights of cords for laces, ultimately deciding on one that I considered just right... The staffer frowned a bit, and asked me if I was sure.  I was.  Later, when looking at the nearly finished shirt, I wasn't so sure anymore.  I knew didn't want ribbons, but the cord I bought felt too thin... Hmmm.... Nothing that says "little girl".  Not going for "sexpot", either.  Something that looks intentional, industrial, artsy, athletic, and strong...

Then, a random fact popped into my head.  I live in what is arguably the fashion sneaker capital neighborhood of New York City.  Just an aside here, but my neighborhood is actually, officially a test market for high-end blinged-out sneaker fabulousness. So, without a doubt, there are bound to be shoelaces that are exactly what I need!

Ready-to-wear similar options are largely absent on the 'net... so maybe I'm in the minority for liking this one?

That's okay.  It is just for me, after all, and I'm the only one who has to like it!  Well, if people start throwing tomatoes at me while I walk down the street in it, I may reconsider.  Generally speaking, everything I make gets a few glances and/or comments for a year or two... and then people LOVE it three years later.  So, either I'm ahead of the curve, or simply out-of synch. We'll see if that's the case here, too. I have a bit of ManRepeller induced "fashion-phobia/philia" these days. After all, sometimes I just love something other people hate.  Or vice-versa. We've gotta let that be okay.

My new shirt was inspired by this picture and tutorial, if you are wondering  how to make one, and need some direction.

My skirt is a variation on an old Vogue pattern (9773 - not similar enough to the original pattern to merit its inclusion here).  I've been using the old, significantly altered tissue forever (or since 1997, judging from the pattern envelope). I like princess seams in my skirts, so I can just mold the skirt to my (practically nonexistent) hips and rear.

Anyway, the ensemble makes me happy.