NYC Fabric Store Review: Paron's Fabrics (revised) - now closed

In an effort to clean up old information on the site, I am revising old posts, and adding new, relevant information for those seeking what these old businesses once offered.

Looking for the Paron experience?  I suggest Fabrics and Fabrics (for fashionable beauty and variety), B&J (for quality), Metro (for price and unexpected finds) and Elliot Berman Textiles (for designer fabrics).

 Paron has since closed.  The post below was written on 3/5/08.

Address: 206 West 40th Street, New York, NYC
Phone: 212-768-3266
Hours: Monday -Thursday 8:30 am - 7:00 pm; Friday 8:30 am - 5:45 pm; Saturday 9:00 am - 5:00 pm; Sunday 11 am - 4pm
Online store: Manhattan Fabrics
Best for: the 50%-off deals in the sales annex

 

Reasons to wander over to 40th Street in the Garment District for a visit to Paron's:

• The staff is a friendly, cheerful bunch. They're eager to help you pull bolts off the shelf, and they quickly came to my aid when they saw me walking around with my hands full. I appreciated that they gave me a little extra fabric with each cut.
• You don't get that claustrophobic feeling you can have in some garment district stores. You know, that any minute you could get swallowed up in an avalanche of falling fabric bolts, never to be heard from again. In the main part of the store there's plenty of room to unravel bolts and play with your fabric.
• The sales annex part of the store features some great bargains. I spent most of my time in here marveling over the wide variety of fabrics and the wallet-friendly prices. 
• 
• Paron sells Kwik-Sew and Burda patterns. They also carry the latest BurdaStyle magazine, though while I was there they only had the plus-size edition.
• The assortment of fabric they have per square foot is pretty amazing—there's a little bit of everything, from silks and wools to cottons and knits. Wonderful prints and colors. And I appreciate how their labels identify the fabric content and the RTW company who produced it.

This store has a happy vibe. When I was in it I felt proud to be a woman who knows her way around a sewing machine. Sounds dumb, but you'll see what I mean when you visit Paron Fabrics in the Garment Center. (By the way, it's pronounced "pear-in.")

Planning your own garment district tour

*Reposted and updated*

Anyone can take you on a shopping trip.  Let's face it; a basic tour... "Here's a store! Let's go inside!" - That doesn't take much skill or knowledge.

Here's the thing.  Since I am in the district all the time, talking to store owners, looking at what's new, and discovering what's special, I curate a really useful selection of stores, respecting your time, their businesses, and recognizing their ability to cut special deals when appropriate. There are more stores than most people have time to explore, and while some of them are otherwise invisible, talk to enough people and you can find any of them... eventually. Below, I am offering a list of some stores for those of you who would prefer to organize your own explorations.  I made this list in 2012, and while much of it has changed, much of it hasn't...

Let's say you are in New York City for a week. Or a day.  Or a few hours.  Or even a few minutes... You may read this blog, and get jazzed by the descriptions of a variety of stores, but which ones do you visit?  Well, that depends on what you want to make.  Are you easily overwhelmed by too many stores and choices?  Are you on a budget? What season is it?  Do you know what you need, or do you need input and encouragement?

You can always plan to come with me on a guided tour.  My September 28th tour is full, but there are still plenty of spaces open for the November 2 tour (this was a long time ago...).  If you like the fun and support of shopping in a group, with an organized plan, discounts, and lunch, come with me!  Even if a guided tour is not your cup of tea,  keep reading...

With full awareness that I have been walking the district for years, and have grown very comfortable with these stores, I know that it remains a mystery and a maze for many others, and non-professionals are often intimidated by the frantic, constant hustle-bustle of the area. For shopping on your own, this blog gives you plenty of reviews and ideas for places to go, so I'll organize some choices for you, to make planning a little easier.  Of course, there are many more, but this will get your feet wet.  Click through the links for all details on any of these stores.

For the designer/fashionista type:

New York Elegant Fabrics
Paron
Fabrics & Fabrics (new, expanded Lace Star)
B&J 
Mood
Metro Textiles

For the crafter/accessory/home dec maker type:

New York Elegant (upstairs)
Leather Suede Skins
Leather Impact
Day to Day Fabrics
Botani
Pacific Trimming
Mokuba
Daytona
Beads World
Mood

Printed cottons:

Material World (window - front of store - Alexander Henry prints)
Rosen and Chadick (window)
NY Elegant (center aisle)

Shirtings:

Rosen and Chadick
New York Elegant

High quality, Classic fabrics:

Rosen & Chadick
B&J
Elliott Berman


For the Explorer/Adventurer/Bargain Hunter:

Truemart
Metro Textiles
Its a Material World


Formal/Bridal:

Sposabella
C&J
Fabrics & Fabrics
B&J

Costume:

Fabrics World
Spandex House
New York Elegant
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply
Dersh Feathers
M&J Trimming


Swim/Lingerie, Dance, Sport and Stretch:

Spandex House
Spandex World
Fabrics World

Notions and equipment:

Steinlauf & Stoller
SIL Thread
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply
Daytona
Panda

Buttons:

Pacific Trimming
M&J Trimming
Tender Buttons (not in the garment district, but not to be missed!)

Zippers:

SIL Thread
Steinlauf & Stoller
Daytona
Pacific
Panda
Botani

Patterns and books:

Paron
Daytona (very small, very haphazard selection)
Fashion Design Bookstore
Butterick (order online)
Onion (order online)
McCalls (order online)
Vogue (order inline)
Simplicity (order online)
Burda (order online/buy publication)
Folkwear (order online)
Vintage and Old Patterns (order online)
Vintage Pattern Lending Library (order online)


Linings:

Guide Fabrics

Services:

Getting snaps, studs, etc. applied
Getting buttons covered
Buttonholes
Grommets applied
Scissors sharpened
Pleating
Fusing
Dressmakers and teachers


Whew!  I think I need a nap... and this represents juts a SLIVER of the district.  Seriously.  Come on a tour (click the link at the top of the page) if you wanna hang out with the big kids...

Spare me the details...

* I love making/redesigning/altering things, and while I enjoy reading blogs that explore the making process in excruciating detail, here I'll simply share results/photos for inspiration, and guidance regarding where to buy the materials/instructions/supplies, when relevant.  If you have any specific questions regarding the HOW aspect of anything I show here, feel free to ask, and I'll answer!

After putting on her newly altered dress, she admired herself in the mirror... "Why don't they make dresses like this anymore?" she sighed.

The back of the pretty vintage dress.

Pictured above, is the back of a beautiful dress, owned by a vintage-loving client of mine, made of a dreamy metallic brocade.  Since it was made for a broader figure than hers, it needed to be altered it significantly to fit her figure, which I achieved by changing the seaming (adding a princess seams where there were none on the original dress), reshaping the bust and armholes, and added some side boning to give it a smoother look. My client will use it for a choral performance on Easter Sunday.

The dress itself, looks similar to the center view of the dress below, with a natural neckline, rather than the square neckline pictured.

This dress pattern, for sale on Patterns of the Past

The original dress was handmade, using two layers of fabric together as one.  There was no separate lining layer, and large seam allowances and perfectly pinked raw edges made this dress a dream to alter. The precisely cut organza layer had the perfect resilience and crispness to smoothly fortify the shape. 

"Well, THEY don't... but someone can!" I thought.  Fabrics & Fabrics has a particularly spectacular selection of brocades, and there, you can find a beautiful gold metallic brocade like this one, as well as wonderful organza to use as lining.

Now... let's say I were to make a similar dress for myself... all I need is a place to wear something that fabulous... Well, a girl can dream, can't she?

Not quantity. QUALITY

While there are lots of bargains and good deals to be found in the fabric and notions stores, not everyone is looking to haggle, dig through disorganized piles of goods, or question fiber content.  

If quality and effective time management is your goal, there is a new map I've made especially for you.  While three of the eighteen stores listed on the map are located outside of the district's borders, all are still within a painless Manhattan cab ride.

I have named it the "Best of the Best", and it lists the best stores and resources for quality-oriented shoppers, with descriptions of the strengths of each entry.

NYC Fabric Store Review: Metro Textiles

Repost: Original post 7/18/12
Still true (and updated): 05/08/14

Address: 265 West 37th Street, Suite 908, New York, NYC
Phone: 212-209-0004
Hours: Monday - Friday, 8 am to 6 pm
Best for: Any creative person with a keen eye

As you probably already know, the garment district is a bootstrapper's land of opportunity.  A wonderful place for people to claw their way up in business, working hard, providing quality service, and building relationships; and that is how many long-established businesses are staying strong in this dismal economy.

Metro Textiles was once reviewed on this blog a few years ago.  I am adding more info and a different perspective from the earlier post.

Kashi, as he is known in the Garment District, has got to be the warmest fabric store owner/host I've ever met.  A kind and loving personality, his hard work putting together the vast offerings in his crowded shop is evident from the moment you walk inside.  To better understand just who this mystery fabric man is, let me share with you, a little story he shared with me.

Long ago, as a young man in his home country, he lacked the fare to travel from his home to the university, so he would hitchhike to school. One day, he was picked up by a successful professor who turned to him along the way and said, "You know, I didn't pick you up for your beautiful eyes." After a pause, and some confusion on Kashi's part, he elaborated, "I remember a time when I was a poor student. Someone helped me, and now, I am paying back the kindness shown to me."

This is Kashi's philosophy.  And his personality.  You feel it in your interaction with him.  

A surprisingly busy and cheerful man, it appears he will give you all the time and info you need,  despite the ringing phone, and people constantly calling his name, with a warm patience you can't help but feel comforted by.  

He became an accidental fabric vendor about 12 years ago.  Kashi got into the fabric business because it seemed like something he could do to earn money, and his good eye for quality fabrics that will sell has really paid off.  With the regular advice of some advising designers, he uses his gut to choose fabrics, and then offers them at extremely fair prices.  Look around a bit, and you're sure to fall in love with something. I'd bet you money.

The store is quite crowded, without much walking space, but if bolts just jump out at you, like they do for me, it is a fun adventure!  Not only that, Kashi does most of his business with repeat customers.  Why? He builds relationships with people.  Once you go, you will be happy you did. And you'll be back.

By the way, he'll even ship your fabric home for you, so don't worry about how heavy your  bags are...

A collaboration with George of International Pleating has given some fabrics a new life as beautifully pleated lengths of fabric you can use for appropriate projects!

The above fabric has a very boldly colorful print, that tells a different story when pleated!  Examples of pleated fabrics hang from the ceilings of Kashi's fabric-filled room. (a fan was blowing the pleats back and forth - we're having a heatwave, ya know, so it was tough to capture a reasonably good picture, but you get the idea.) Unless you've been living under a rock, you have probably noticed that pleats are all the rage these days.

Check out his blog for more info... (As if you need any more convincing to just go there.)

And there you have it, folks.  Yet another reason to go "upstairs" in the garment district.

Psst... by the way, if you have plans to come shop in the Garment District soon, whether you are a New Yorker or not, click here...

NYC Fabric Store Review: Fabrics World USA

Originally posted 7/10/12 - Updated today

This post has been revised today (October 8, 2013), because the only experiences commenters have shared on this business so far have been negative ones.  True to my responsible blogging philosophy, I feel compelled to let you know what I hear about this store, too.  Please read viewer comments below this post, and caveat emptor, folks.

Once upon a time, when I was a college freshman who sewed alot of her own, quirky clothes, I earned the nickname "Stripes" among a group of people who later became friends ( a clique, really) because they didn't know my name. Then it became a joke, and it kinda stuck. In that very geometric, Bennetton, assymmetric bobbed-haircut era, I made lots of striped skirts, pants, and deliberately cock-eyed Issey Miyake inspired stuff, that I would still wear (although a bit differently) today.

And this is why I am reviewing a store into which I randomly wandered on a day when I was actually headed elsewhere.

This store has an uninspiring, but fairly organized layout, and a distant, distracted staff, but that's no biggie... In fairness, it was a brutally hot day, and brutally hot inside the store as well. I just wandered in to take a peek at the piles of fabric inside. Now that I think about it, what drew me in were the colors.

You may wonder why I am featuring such a store here, but, frankly, their complete, deliberate disregard for current trends was refreshing. If you were blindfolded and led into this store, and asked what year we were in when the blindfold was removed, you actually wouldn't know. No color stories or fabric types seem to dominate in this store. That's actually kinda cool, don't you think? Allowed me to hit the "creative reset button", so to speak.

Now, this is not an insult to the proprietors of this store, but if you like a bit of humor/personality in your clothing, or if you make costumes, this is really the place for you! Completely reasonable prices, and lots of things that S-T-R-E-T-C-H.

And then, I noticed the stretchy, t-shirtlike knits toward the back, and had my own personal 80's moment. Lots of stripes, in color combos that sang to me in a sort of Depeche Mode, Simple Minds, Breakfast-clubbian medley. Deliberate, bold stripes of color reminiscent of Molly Ringwald, John Cryer and Anthony Micheal Hall.

80's teenagers among you... can you feel it? And, remember the wardrobe of Mrs. Roper from "Three's Company"? She's been my muse a few times in the recent past. Seriously.

And then, against my will, I started to hum... and dream... "Don't you... forget about me..." I was in love. You can bet I'll snag a few things there. Don't worry; I'll update the look. Cue the music. (... "the look of love... that's the look... that's the look... the look of lo-uh-uh-ove... LOOK OF LOVE!")



Fabrics World USA
252 West 38th Street
NYC

So... let's say you're coming to visit New York...

Short post for the non-New Yorkers!

If you are traveling here from out of town, there are affordable places to stay. Really!  Now that someone has taken the time to write an entire article about it, I can just share the link with you, and you can make your New York City Garment District Tourism dream a reality!

On Swatching...

We all know that there are LOTS of stores in the NYC garment district.

With ever-changing inventory.

And you can get overwhelmed, or far too picky, or indecisive.

A few years ago, I chose this silk fabric (on top) as a visible lining, to make with this chiffon a bridesmaid was given to use "pop"... Based on just a swatch, the bridesmaid was uncertain, but, trusting my gut, I hand draped and made the dress pictured below.  She really loved it, thank goodness. 

The garment district stores know that you may have to check the budget, match things with other things, get an idea of yardage, get approval, think it over... Those are all good reasons to take a swatch.  They also know that the fact that you can swatch may lead you to research endlessly, take swatches to compare, overthink, consult with a million different opinions of others, haggle endlessly with others offering similar goods, and possibly compile an overly optimistic wishlist.

Here are my suggestions for successful swatching:

• When you find a great swatch, attach it to the business card of the store where you found it.  Most stores will give you a card to attach it to.  Failure to do this will result in a pile of random swatches in your pockets, you will wonder why you collected later on. (Ask me how I know...) Write the price and date you found it. Write the fabric's name and fiber content, if needed.

• If needed, wash test your swatch (secure it with a safety pin to some other well-worn item in your laundry), burn test it, and/or check it in daylight.When you decide that you do want it, order it, or return to the same store to buy it.

• When you decide that you do want it, either order it, or return to the SAME STORE to buy it, within a reasonably short amount of time.

For the professionals among you, over-swatching can lead to client confusion, and the problem of just TOO MUCH information for a real decision to be made.  Fact is, there are plenty of "right" fabrics, plenty of acceptable ones, plenty of wrong ones.  Your gut (and experience) will often respond to what will work.  Trust it.

A client gave me a sketch for a costume she designed, and I submitted a bunch of swatches to her, indicating what I felt was a "right" combination of fabrics, and some others, in case she felt differently.  She did accept what i chose, and we were both happy with the outcome.

Swatches from New York Elegant

Costume

So yes, swatch when it is useful to you... but not to make endless fabric "scrapbooks".  Then, swatch your own fabrics at home, so you can keep track of your stash.  What?  You don't have a stash? No "someday" pile?  I don't believe you...

Garment District Info: Where does all of this fabric come from?

All over the place.  I'm sure that comes as no surprise. New York City is one of the hubs of international trade for our country, after all...

In my professional life so far, I have worked for three textile companies.  All of them had mills or production facilities right here in the USA. One was a cotton converter (meaning they printed on cotton) whose main advantage was the artwork created by their designers. The division of that company I worked for no longer exists. The second fabric company I worked for was an elastomeric (stretch) fabric company, who sold to most of the world's best known lingerie, swimsuit, and sportswear companies.  The last one I worked for was a wool, cashmere, and luxury fabrics company, who sold to luxury clothing and home furnishing manufacturers, and also had a clothing division of its own.

While working for these companies, I learned an awful lot about the fabrics they sold, the production process, and how the system works.  Lemme tell you... the process is fraught with potential disasters, scheduling problems, dye problems, overage and/or shortage problems, payment problems, equipment problems, shipping and documentation problems...  you've got to REALLY know what you're doing, on SO many levels, and know who you are dealing with, to stay in business as a textile company.  The amount of effort they put in is admirable.

Which brings me to my bigger point.  The rent these businesses have to pay to maintain a space in the garment district is HUGE!  What an effort a fabric store has to make to even SURVIVE, much less thrive in the district these days.  Seriously Herculean.  One store owner said to me, "If I could just get even three more customers a day, do you know what a big difference that would make for me?"  I mean, really, they are doing their best to offer us great stuff at great prices, and I admire them all for even being willing to try!

So where does all that great fabric come from? There are times when fabrics, produced by textile mills  are rejected by the intended customer for a variety of reasons.  The reason for their rejection does not always render those fabrics status as "second quality goods".  They just weren't suitable for the intended buyer. There can be quality issues, like oil stains from the machines, or dye problems, machine stop marks, streaky colors, thread or weaving issues... the list goes on and on.  However, when you personally need just a few yards for a project, these kinds of problems will likely not matter so much to you, especially if you can cut around them, or don't notice a small imperfection.  This leftover fabric is often taken by whoever will pay for it, and ends up being used by another manufacturer, or in a fabric store.  there can also be production overruns, discontinued colors and styles, and other reasons why the fabric is available to you as a retail customer.

Some fabric is specifically made for the home sewing market and retail customers not buying in large quantities, and is sold directly to the stores.

The fabrics you find are made in many different countries, with quite a variety of fiber content variations, and you won't necessarily know how to launder and care for it. Some stores have knowledgeable staff who will give you care instructions if you ask (New York Elegant, Spandex House, B&J, Mood, and Rosen and Chadick come to mind), but some will have no idea, and offer no assistance at all.  If you are already here in New York, and don't mind making more than one trip to the garment district, you can always get swatches (most stores allow this) and wash test the fabrics yourself for comparison.  You can also do burn tests at home, if desired.  Don't abuse the ability to swatch!  Try to only do it for fabrics you actually intend to buy.  Stores impose limits because of swatch abuse by the indecisive... and students... ahem.

Sometimes you find something so inspiring, you simply MUST take a swatch, and figure it out later.  An example of this is below, from New York Elegant Fabrics.  I saw this puffy, weird, textural fabric, and wanted to squeal with delight.  I asked one of the staffers (who I know was a textile designer before her career at NY Elegant) I regularly chat with, what she thought this fabric could be used for.  She shrugged, and said "Jacket?"  Sounds like that could be pretty cool. I thought about this... until this morning.... when it hit me like a thunderbolt!!!!  In the spare time I don't have, I really want to recover my sofa (messily, on purpose) in an exaggerated, prehistoric animal print.  This is Flintstone cartoon inspired... bear with me here... I am often inspired by cartoons... and the "rock" pillows must be made of THIS FABRIC!   Oh, I just ACHE to make this happen!!!!!  Where oh where will I find the time?????

Secondly, with time I will make, I had to seize this fabric from Metro Textiles.  It is an oversized, blurry purple rose print charmeuse, that I almost hesitated to share with you guys because I love it so, and wish for no one else to have access.  Then, I decided that was silly.  After all, he's probably sold out of it by now... snicker... snicker...

A picture doesn't do it justice.  Had to be a video.

So there ya go.  Find your inspiration.  Go fabric "window shopping", and you'll find things that will haunt your dreams.  And see my previous post if you would like to join me on a garment district tour on November 2nd this year.

It's a Material World is Closing...

It's a Material World
257 W 39th St
New York, NY 10018

Yesterday, I happened by the door of this place where steep discounts abound, and saw the news... "Going out of business".  Looks like they are offering some pretty steep disounts while they push some inventory out the door. While there are a good few months left, there's time to skip on over, before you blow the chance to get what's good!  Literally, a place to just stop in and see what's good.  They do seem to have an AWFUL lot of denim, these days. (And hum Madonna songs while you're in there.  They love that... I'm kidding, of course.)

I've been there countless times over the years.  Fun place!

NYC Fabric Store Review: C&J Textiles

C&J Textiles
230 West 38th Street 7th Floor
New York, NY 10018

If you walk in wearing a t-shirt and shorts, you might feel underdressed.  This place is very much a bustling New York City office, with tidy professional "Account Executives" ready to help you.  When you enter, a cheery receptionist greets you, and asks you to state your business.

A beautiful showroom, with walls lined with gorgeous novelty fabrics, and an efficient layout of swatches and colors showing their VAST range awaits.  While a photo-worthy environment, I'm a terrible photographer, and probably couldn't get a good picture in there to convey its fabulousness.

But wait, don't leave - you're not in the wrong place ... psssst... lean in closely....

They have no minimums, the selection of fabrics is beautiful, and the prices are wonderfully reasonable compared to the street-level retail stores.

How would I have ever known this place ever existed, if my own friend hadn't mentioned that this is the best place to get silk solids?  I really don't know.  It seems no web search reveals them. Their website is a real yawner, and doesn't convey the level of quality that is so blatantly apparent when you go directly to the showroom. And, oh, they have so much more to offer than silk solids! See the sample index on the web.

They give you a full price list.  An honest, clear, straightforward price list.  This is eye-to-eye, hand-to-hand business, where they don't care if you are Chanel or Sally Ann - you'll be treated well.  They speak to you as if you matter.  And your business matters.

They also sell high-end novelty fabrics, suitable for one-of-a-kind, very special creations.  The prices of those goods reflect their quality and uniqueness, but if you need it, you will find it there.

Oh, and 81 colors on their color card, okay?  Not for everything, of course... but man, 81 colors????!!! C'mon!

And stuff I've never considered.  Water repellent silk poplin?  They've got lots of stuff. I used to be amazed when I would go to a street level fabric store, ask for something they didn't have, and then thought I was getting special treatment when I'd be asked to wait while an employee would run out for 15 minutes, and come back with some just for me from a "special" local supplier.  But now, I think I'm on to something here...

Now, this isn't really a retail experience like you would get at street level, and it can be intimidating and pressure-filled for people who aren't used to having to clearly articulate their purpose when they enter.  But if you already know what you need, this is a great way to get your fabric online or in person.  And they seem to be wildly efficient.  My friend who gave me the tip is fiercely loyal to this place!

Psssst... the Garment District "Speakeasy" tour

I'm doing a one-day only, "best-kept-secret" garment district shopping trip on Friday, September 28.  Friday is the chosen day of the week because all garment district businesses will be open.   You can still even catch a Broadway show or museum exhibit while you're here!  Space is limited.  Too big of a crowd is no fun. Registration requires advance payment.

This is a rain or shine event!

Update: There will be a second one in November!

Itinerary below:

10AM - 2PM - Shopping (Will include several very special fabric stores with a wide variety of offerings suitable for many different purposes/types of garments.)

2PM-3PM - Lunch (included in your fee)

3PM - 5PM armed with your "Secret Map", you may visit more garment district stores if you wish, and give unique codes (that you'll get from me) to vendors who will give special assistance/discounts.

The cost of this guided tour is $75 per person. If you use this trip to shop and participate in what NYC has to offer, you will save at least as much as you are paying, and probably far more.

Wanna come?  Click below, and the details on meeting time/place provided. From outta town? If you need hotel and/or travel help, I will advise some of the BEST NYC secrets I know! Also, you can click on hotels above (this page - to your right) for the most standard and convenient choices. Payment is only accepted via PayPal (you do not need a Paypal account), credit or debit card. No cash, personal checks, or additional payments will be accepted on the day of the tour. The trip will involve a good amount of walking, so come prepared, and healthy.

Update: As of 8:06 AM New York time today (7/24), the tour is full. I will likely do another in the future.

The payment link has been removed.

There is always SO much to learn... (Part 2 of.... who knows how many?)

Clearing my throat... Following my mother's advice on "If you don't have anything nice to say..." I try to avoid reviewing stores whose business practices are questionable. Not wanting to specifically steer anyone away from stores who are clearly struggling to make a buck in this economy, I try to keep those thoughts to myself. I find myself torn as I write this post, because, located just across the street from one another in the garment district, are two stores with WONDERFUL fabric surprises inside... but I'll give you all of the details I feel need to be shared before suggesting you go there. I'll preface my statement by telling you what I am particularly drawn to right now, and why this matters to me. Then, I will tell you why you might love to go to these places, and what to "watch out" for, so you can make your own, informed decision. (Pulling out soapbox and grabbing megaphone...) Living in New York City, I have the incredible luck to be exposed to people of many different nationalities. One of the enormous benefits that comes with living here, is that I am constantly surrounded by a wonderful, swirling, eclectic fashion show on endless parade right in my own neighborhood. The incredible hand embroideries on the clothing from Africa, India, and other exotic points can be simply magical. One thing that has struck me recently, are the textures, colors, and finishes on many of the African fabrics. Specifically, how beautiful they look when sewn up as men's shirts. And, oh... the sari fabrics are gorgeous. The metallic shimmer, the large-scale, boldly confident embroidered motifs... Just to die for. I have lots of Americanized adaptations in mind for such fabrics, and picture incorporating them into my family's wardrobe in the coming months. Having said that, I slither into stores where such fabric is prominently featured, as if lured in by a snake-charmer's flute. Sometimes, the prices for these fabrics are ASTOUNDINGLY low, considering their beauty. And sometimes... "Oooh... so pretty! How much?" "How much you pay?" This exchange can go back and forth for a while, usually culminating in, "Normally, $40 a yard, but for you..." "What fabric is this?" "All silk. 100%. Best quality." Whatever. Guess they didn't consider that an important enough detail to hang a sign over that section of the store. Who cares, right? Well I do. For reasons beyond the obvious desire not to be overcharged, I want to know how to launder, care for, if it will take dye, what to use as lining... basically, what to consider. Now, you can't always be sure what you're getting. I can tell you, however, that the stores I love the most have never steered me wrong. I do think it is important to tell you that it is clear from the purchases dressmaking clients of mine have made, that when they bring me some "special" silk they found, they either heard what they wanted to hear, or were being outright lied to. Luckily for me, one of the stores has already been reviewed by another blogger we all love, so Ill let her make the points I am having a hard time trying to articulate. As for the other store, Yelp does a fine job of telling you what you need to know. I feel kinda dirty, giving you a "You didn't hear it from me..." But hey, you didn't! So here are some ways to know what fabric you're dealing with: Get a swatch for testing. If not possible, start with a smell test. It probably comes as no surprise to you that you can sometimes smell the chemicals in the synthetic fabrics a mile away. So pick it up and smell it. If taking it home, conduct a burn test. I've done this several times to prove to clients that what they bought isn't what they think it is. You can find many burn test guides on the web by Googling "Fabric burn test", but I highly recommend Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide (p. 475) for a complete, thoughtfully arranged chart. This book is absolutely well worth the investment. Claire absolutely knows what she is talking about! If important to you, cut your swatch in half, and test launder with your next load of laundry. (I safety pin a swatch to a garment in the same load, so I can find it later.) Leave the other half of the swatch out as your "control" swatch, and compare it to the one you laundered. That way, you can see what level of shrinkage, pilling and fading to expect. Note: Almost any fabric will last longer and behave better if dry cleaned. So, let's say you've made your purchase, created your masterpiece, and now need to care for your sewn project. Janie Bryant, the costume designer known for her work on "Mad men", has penned a downloadable Fabric Care Guide with the Downy company, giving some good tips to help you consider the care of your garments. A VERY well-respected dry cleaner here in New York City, Madame Paulette, offers what I consider to be the MOST ingenious stain kit ever. Can you believe that there are DRY CLEANING STAIN KITS, which give you the proper solutions for different stain types (protein, earth, oil) in one portable package? I do have some of these myself, and they work! And lastly, but not leastly, you can always put content labels in your garment. Heaven forbid someone else does the laundry or transports your handiwork to a dry cleaner who takes an incorrect guess at fiber content, ruining it completely. Cautionary tale: I was at a designer client's home studio, when a member of her housekeeping staff (yeah, she's pretty wealthy) machine washed a jumpsuit, which needed to be hung to dry. She ended her shift for the day without hanging the jumpsuit, and another staffer arrived and placed it in the dryer. The designer's own handmade design was ruined. No garment care labels were inside. Such a simple addition could have saved the day. Note: Next paragraph is no longer current. I ended the auction described below, because one buyer wanted a significant quantity. Great! Done! I do often put custom care labels on things I create, but if you want to be "official", the best garment labels are sold in bulk. Most of us, not being large scale manufacturers, need manageable quantities, and we want variety, since we sew different fabrics.

Why shop at Rosen & Chadick?

In sharp contrast to so many other stores in the garment district, here is a second generation owner-partnership that actually CARES. A great retail shopping experience in a place that mainly serves the trade, they are so knowledgeable and well connected that if they don't have it, they can certainly find out who does, or suggest a great substitute.

They also have a candy cup that holds Twizzlers. (My weakness...)

So, what do they have?

What everyone else doesn't. Seriously. If you come out of there unimpressed, tell me. And I won't believe you.
Having said that, you can't just walk in, asking "Whatcha got?" and expect to find something fabulous to buy. Their clients have a vast variety of needs. Summon your inner New Yorker and cut to the chase. Wanna see some cashmere? Some washed linen? Soem shirtings? They have them... in colors and patterns TO DIE for. Just don't waste their time.

Now, I know that on the subject of this store, there have been posts in the past, but I respectfully disagree with some of the points, and while many of my reasons are historical, I will explain here:

They know a heckofalot about fabric. I remember about a decade ago, when this store was a HUGE ground level establishment, next door to what is now NY Elegant, and the original owners were helping customers personally. I gasped at the beauty... and then the price, on a hanging piece of silk velvet. "Teddy" Chadick, sensing my horror, walked over to me, and, in the most patient, passionate, and kind way, explained to me fully the difference between poly velvet and silk velvet, showing me all of the subtleties that made this fabric "worth" the price. I did return and buy that velvet, making the most painstakingly careful, gorgeous jacket I own. A decade later, it remains in my wardrobe - the color is still as lusciously smoky lavender, the napped texture as softly plush, as delightful to wear as the day I bought it. I can also see and appreciate the differences between fabrics of the same name sold elsewhere, but different qualities.

They can explain what makes something special and desirable, which, frankly, sometimes isn't important to a home sewer. But it is indispensable to the designer clients they serve. Don't get me wrong; they want your business, but they don't make their money selling two yards of denim to home sewers. They've got people ordering 1000's of yards, and the home sewer is gravy. Good gravy, but gravy...

The benefit of shopping there, is that when you need quality, you know you can find it there. The washed linen pants I made in 2006 look as crisp as the day I made them... and that is thanks to great fabric.

My wool/cashmere Miyake-inspired coat. The comfiest, coziest fabric around - like wearing a blanket in the winter. Only I know how cozy it is, but, what people say, is "Oh, that COLOR!"

Now, THAT"s a reason to shop at Rosen & Chadick.

561 7th Avenue
2nd AND 3rd Floor
at 40th Street

Update on Paron Fabrics' Relocation, Plus Moving Sale

Note: Paron has since closed.

Paron Fabrics is leaving its W. 40th Street location for a spot on W. 39th.

[Note: As of 2/7/12 Paron's is still at its 40th Street location. A person who answered the phone at Paron's said they will be there for another two weeks.] 

Paron's is getting ready to pack up and move to their new location at 257 W. 39th Street (across from Dakota Braids & Trims), and all fabric has been reduced. Everything in the main room is 30 percent off, and everything in the Annex is 60 percent off. You can tell they haven't added any new inventory in awhile, and the pickings in the Annex are really slim, but I was able to grab the last 2.5 yards of a patterned wool I first coveted months ago, now 30 percent cheaper. Store employees tell me Paron's will open in its new location around the beginning of February, and that this week is the last week they'll be open at W. 40th. I'm looking forward to visiting the new location, and fingers crossed that they keep the Annex.

Current Kwik Sew and Burda patterns are not on sale, but you can find out-of-print Vogue, Butterick and Burda patterns for $2 each in the Annex.

Shopping Online for Fabric at Garment District Stores

B&J Fabrics' new online store says Navajo prints are hot.

It will probably take forever, but one by one the stores of the Garment District are catching up with the rest of the world by adding online shops. B&J Fabrics recently beefed up its online shopping site about a month ago, and while you can tell that tweaking still needs to be done (there's no way to judge the size of a print motif or the drape of a fabric, for example), I think they're clearly heading in the right direction. The fabrics B&J has on its online site are a decent representation of what's available in the store. What's really attractive about shopping online at B&J is the "free ground shipping on all domestic orders, and $50 Priority FedEx shipping on all international orders." Nice!

Other NYC Garment District fabric stores with online retail sites include Mood Fabrics, Elliott Berman Textiles and Paron Fabrics (Manhattan Fabrics online). I wish NY Elegant and Rosen & Chadick would join the others and venture online too.

My online fabric buying experience is very limited, because why shop online when I can walk a block and buy fabric in real life, right? But do tell me about your online fabric shopping. Have you ever bought fabric from a Garment District store's online site? How would you rate the experience?

Make Your Own Sequin Dress for the Holidays

DKNY Sequin Dress, $345, Bloomingdales

Sequins, sequins, sequins! Holiday Fashion 2011 is one big sparkly mess. You, you smart little sewist you, can whip up your own little one-of-a-kind sequin number for far less than you'd pay in the better stores. Just head over to NYC's Garment District, specifically the north side of W. 39th Street. Most of the stores there have loads of sparkly sequin fabric priced between $10 and $30 a yard; feel free to negotiate your way to a lower price with the sales staff. The stores I'd start with are G&R, Gate 232 (this store keeps changing owners and names; just look for lots of tacky signs in the window and on the street), and Logo. And if you have any tips for sewing sequin fabric, please comment here. I may be sewing my first sequin dress and I could use some help!

G&R Fabrics

G&R Fabrics

Watching Project Runway with Mood Fabric's Sauma Family

Robert Stolarik for The New York Times

The New York Times recently ran an online feature about the Sauma family, owners of Mood Fabrics in New York's Garment District. Read the entire article here.

"What began as a family store has become an empire with a wholesale division, a home décor wing and a Web site started last year to supply internationally. The expansion is partly helped by the show, which does not pay to film in the store in exchange for mentioning Mood on air. (Yes, designers do pay for the goods they carry out.)" —The New York Times

Attention Fabric Shoppers: Cotton Prices Going Up

"But at the mass-market level, every garment is as much a product of a spreadsheet as the muse, and right now the former is showing cotton prices up 126 percent from last July. That translates to about a dollar more per raw pound—a jump of approximately $2.12 for a pair of dungarees." —New York Magazine

Whenever I have a rare chance to talk with fabric store owners, this is what I hear: The price of fabric is going up. And up. For a better researched perspective, read Trouser Math: Cotton Inflation Means More Skinny Jeans in this week's New York Magazine. And while I'm personally not a proponent of building a fabric stash, now's the time to buy if you see fabric you like at a reasonable price….

Fabric Store Visit: Prime Fabrics on W. 35th

Address: 212 W. 35th Street, New York, NYC
Phone: 212-465-0780
Hours: Mon-Fri: 9:30 a.m. - 7 p.m.; Sat: 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.; Sun: 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Online store: none
Best for: One of the few stores open on Sunday

I made a quick drive-by visit to Prime Fabrics yesterday and scored a bright cotton print.

I didn't intend to stop in this fabric store on W. 35th Street yesterday, but the retro cotton prints in the window caught my eye. I bought two yards of the fourth print from the left in the photo above, and am thinking I might cut out some of the big roses and sunflowers and appliqué a dress à la this Lilly Pulitzer dress.

At any rate, what I thought of this Garment District fabric store: It's open on both Saturday and Sunday (points for that); it has a wide variety of fabrics, from laces to suitings to jersey knits; it has a big selection of ethnic prints; and it has a lot of junky fabrics. Don't venture into the far rear of the store unless you've called your mom and told her where you are; the precarious walls of bolts could fall on you and you might have to cut off your arm to escape. There was only one staff member in the store when I was there, and since he was assisting customers I didn't get to ask my usual questions. I get the feeling this is not a store where you're going to get any great deals. For example, my cotton print was $15 a yard, comparable to what Mood Fabrics would charge for it. But if you're in NYC on a Sunday when most of the stores are closed, I'd definitely stop at Prime Fabrics.

Lots of laces in all colors.

My designer label-seeking eye spotted this Missoni cotton print in the store. It wasn't exactly what I consider attractive, but hey, it's Missoni!