$17 later... Curtains. (And my fight for curtain diversity)

Updated -Original post 4/27/15

The simplest of curtains.

*The details of the curtains are unimportant here, no special finishes or hems or anything of note... I just love the colors. On Friday, I was looking up at apartment windows, and noticed the glaring absence of interesting window treatments.  Mostly white, and not distinctive in structure or texture, it seemed, I just wanted to see something different. This random thought led me into a local fabric store on Saturday.  I had grown tired of my old, golden-hued curtains, and wanted an immediate change.

I went to a place one wouldn't likely know to go to... and you can only win there if you can distinguish the good stuff from the crap, because, believe me... they have too much of both.  While I can't say I would "recommend" this store (unless you really wanna beat Manhattan prices, and this place is likely a jobber, a big sign tells you all fabric is sold "as is"!), the prices, eclectic selection, and opportunity for thinking differently absolutely couldn't be beat.  I'm talking $1-4 a yard, mostly.  So, what did it cost me to make these curtains?

$17.

Yup.

I made them on Saturday.  Simple, cheerful curtains. Done.

So let's say you want to do the same?  You can spend more, of course, but the options are practically endless for simple panels.  At that price, you can change your curtains monthly, if you want. 

Note: Home dec fabrics adhere to flammability standards, but you can also spray other fabrics (not leather, though) with this stuff.

Wanna make your own?

Here are some ideas for where to buy the fabric:

NY Elegant (upstairs)
Prime Fabrics (upstairs)
B&J Fabrics
Mood Home
Truemart Discount Fabrics

I just did a rod pocket, but if you need grommets installed for hanging:

Star Snaps
Steinlauf & Stoller

When it comes to simple curtains, make them yourself, and you'll save a fortune.  Pay someone else to do them, and you'll spend a fortune.

If money is no object, you can really have some glorious things made.  Just keep in mind, there are more options in the world than just WHITE!

Ch-ch-ch-anges!

In B&J last week, I heard a woman in the next aisle lament to her friend, "Man, things are really changing around here.  I mean... I was in a store, asked for a business card, the man handed it to me, shrugged and said... 'We're moving soon.  Don't know where to, but you can use the info on this card in the meantime.' Pivot.  End of conversation!"

Her light humor and gestures illustrating her point made it a funny moment, until... I felt it for myself first-hand a few hours later...

At Steinlauf and Stoler.

So yeah, they don't owe me details or an explanation, but wow, they have a somber email list you can sign to get info when they move.  Call me crazy, but their tone feels more like "if" than "when".

No longer in its heyday, but fantastic for a variety of needed items for the serious professional or hobbyist, this place, in exactly this location will be missed.  Or, maybe it will move, refresh itself, and bet better than ever...?  Let's see!

And... remember Chic Fabric?  After they closed, their inventory went down the street to another store, and we breathed a sigh of relief... but now, there's a sign that the Chic alliance is ending (maybe sold all inventory?) and so, that is also a "wrap".

So, okay, we can deal...  There are still plenty of great places to go, and the bigger ones are still great... and I strolled past what was once... ummmm.... Leather Impact.

It was gone.  Empty.  No forwarding details. But wait!  Look their website!  They simply moved!  Look at their Instagram.  Whew. We're good.

Life goes on...

Psssst...About the "girls" and the "jiggly bits"

*Reposting*

Now, some 700 posts into this blog, I look at some older, but still useful posts, and pull them out again...

I was inspired to repost this entry (originally posted two three five years ago) because of a very timely article I read online today (three years ago).  Ever fascinated by the entrepreneurial spirit of ambitious young people, a skilled dressmaker's contribution, a great business idea, and a market and investors who respond and support the idea, I felt moved and reminded to "support" us all...

We all need support sometimes. Well, except for a lucky few... But as you create, sew,or simply style yourself or others, you find that you have to work your way around "the girls" and all the other bits that don't want to stay where you'd like them to be. You do know who I mean, don't you? Whether you are a member of the "committee", are very ample, pendulous, voluptuous or asymmetrical, you have to work with fitting them every time you get dressed, design and/or sew. Below, are body-shaping swimsuits I've made for a client with a HH cup.

Padded strap elastic from SIL Thread, underwires from Steinlauf and Stoller (doubled in the channel for extra strength), powernet used as lining for a supportive body structure from Spandex House - made my client look like a Bond girl! But every body has different needs...
If the garment is already made, and you are simply getting dressed, every form of "help" you could ask for is available at Manhattan Wardobe Supply. Used by stylists and wardrobe professionals all over New York City, this place knows what you need, and has it in stock. Website or brick and mortar! Wanna make lingerie? There are lingerie and swim bra cups (same cups) sold at Steinlauf and Stoller, by the pair, for well under $10. Need hip pads or underwires? Boning? Stays? They've got that, too. In a wide variety of sizes, and all extremely affordable. And SIL Thread even carries a "separator"! But hey, if you've got a real challenge when it comes to fit, or if you just want that killer hourglass look, you can get a bra or shapewear you can swim in, a bra you can dance in, something that fits you... without having to make it, or have it made. A true specialty store within walking distance of the garment district... This is the "Pssst...." part. Bra Tenders Shhhh.... they're not on street level, and you wouldn't find them, or even know they EXIST otherwise. They really serve the theatrical community mainly, but they are also a retail establishment. Sizes AA to L. No kidding - I said "L". Make an appointment for a fitting. Be prepared to be eyed suspiciously by the guard in the lobby (or maybe that was just my imagination?), and being asked why you are there, and what the heck you want... They clearly don't want just anybody stopping in, which I did... today. "We're not set up for browsing", I was told. "We're really more of a showroom." Doesn't look that way, once inside, as it looks quite "browseable", but they make it quite clear that they don't want you to just "look around" or "explore", so know there are some gatekeepers involved here. They will not let you just buy without having a fitting first. Seriously. They specialize in undergarments and shapewear, and appointments carry no fee or obligation to buy, although you do have to secure your appointment with a credit card. In true New York fashion, they won't let you waste their time.

Now you know. Bratenders 630 9th Avenue Suite 601 NYC 10036 Tel: 212-957-7000

Fuse, glue, adhere

Reposting: originally posted 8/29/13 - some stores have changed, disappeared, popped up... I have discovered some new ones, and some more options have appeared since then...

Why write this post?

Because you can't deny the time and anguish-saving fabulousness fusing or gluing something properly can bring, as an alternative to hand-stitching...

AND...

I am glue-challenged.  My fear of adhesion, the process, my inability to properly launder, my disappointment when it fails, frustration when I press, maintain, and secure things to other things, has long made me seek other solutions, in an effort to  avoid all of the products associated with it.  But these are the things I have tried and loved/liked/dealt with, whether for clients, or for myself. 

Now, I share my experiences with you, and invite you to share your own.

So, here are some things I've tried, and how they have worked.  Chime in on this one, 'cause all input helps here...

One of the best sources for glue of all kinds is Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, because of their wide range of glue options and constant, healthy supply of products in the brick and mortar store!

The official spiel:

E-6000 is a unique adhesive formulated to meet high-performance industrial requirements. It adheres to more surfaces than virtually any other adhesive. E-6000 has exceptional adhesion to wood, metal, glass, fiberglass, ceramics, masonry and concrete. Not for use on Styrofoam. It also adheres strongly to leather, rubber, vinyl and many plastics. Because it is abrasion-resistant E-6000 may be used on high-wear surfaces. E-6000 maintains its flexible bond in cold temperatures and may be used to bond items subject to vibration. The clear E-6000 is not formulated for exposure to sunlight. For these applications, paint over E-6000 after it has cured.

In my experience:

This is great if you have a costume to assemble.  When stuff needs to stay put, without the real considerations of real life issues, like laundering and stiffness after adhesion, this stuff is great.  Not a lot of need for it in my life, but come Halloween, that stuff is gonna get a lot of use!

Sobo
This glue is a general-purpose glue for school, craft, and household use. Sobo withstands multiple freeze-thaw cycles and dries fast and clear.

Got craft projects and/or kids?  This is the fiber artists equivalent of a stronger Elmer's Glue, in my opinion.  Works great, if that's what you need!

Barge cement

Great for leather, rubber, fixing your shoes, and in my experience, some home dec purposes, too!  This stuff is super strong, and professional quality.

Aleene's Tacky Glue

The official spiel:

Aleene’s® Original Tacky Glue™ is the most recognized and trusted crafting adhesive. The familiar gold bottle is found in almost every household in America, and the line of Aleene’s Crafting Adhesives includes glues for every imaginable purpose. The famous Original Tacky Glue™ is considered the ultimate in glues because it is incredibly versatile and reliable. This popular formula is also available in a jar with a built-in brush and an easy-to-squeeze tube. Aleene’s® Brush-On Tacky Glue™ gives you quality Aleene’s® Tacky Glue with the convenience of a built-in brush. And the easy-to-squeeze tube makes application super easy. Aleene’s® Original Tacky Glue™ * dries clear and flexible * cleans up with water * is the #1 choice of crafters! The nontoxic formula is recommended for all craft and hobby surfaces, including: * paper * fabric * ribbon * arts and crafts

In my experience:  A temporary craft glue.  Think holiday ornaments, kids' projects, and party decorations.

Other sticky stuff...

Interfacing

Just my own preference, but I don't use much fusible interfacing.  When I do get interfacing of any kind, I get mine from Steinlauf & Stoller. I am usually buying small quantities, so they are the best option for me. The rest of the time, I use woven interfacings, and sometimes fabrics that aren't necessarily sold as "interfacing", when I'm sculpting a garment.  Really depends on my opinion on whatever the garment requires.  Too much to explain here, but I do notice drastic differences in interfacing quality from store to store, so really, don't just buy it anywhere.  I've learned the hard way.

It gets far more complicated, though.  You might want to do something special, and you need something that only a really tough or specific fusible product can do for you.  I just had a very happy experience with thick, firm Fuse-A-Shade, which I bought from a local Jo Ann store (yes, really), and it was perfect!  Jo Ann is also good for shipping elsewhere, if you're not in NYC. Also easy to find Wonder-Under, Stitch Witchery, and spray-on or heat-set adhesives (turning something previously not fusible, into something fusible). 

A note about JoAnn, and why I mention the store here on this blog:

While the NYC garment district has a wealth of notions, tools, and things you can use, Jo Ann's products can help bridge the expertise gap, bringing some no-sew ideas to life, making use of the fabulous fabric you find in the garment district's stores. Not a betrayal of my mission here, but rather, a complement to it.

Also, see my post on Quick Fusing, if you want to bond or fuse yardage!

Rhinestones

There are an amazingly large bunch of people who glue rhinestones.  I won't even ask why... but I have do some ideas, people...  Anyway, Joyce Trimming has got you covered for that stuff.  If you can't go in person, see their website.

Crystal Rhinestones...

M&J Trimming is a wonderland.  Visit the Swarovski counter, and I defy you to leave without a bag of something.  Silver foil backing, with adhesive already in place.  Easy to apply! If you need a Hot Fixer tutorial, M&J offers an instructional video on their site! 

Monograms and well, just letters...

M&J and Jonathan Embroidery both offer some great fusible letters.  They stay on so securely, you don't need to worry!  And, you've gotta check out the rhinestone script letters M&J offers.  If it didn't require so many letters, I would love to spell out "High Maintenance" across a cashmere sweatshirt... but people wouldn't know I was kidding, so...

And a personal Mommy recommendation from me...

I have learned to pre-fortify the knees of my son's jeans with iron-on patches BEFORE the hole begins.  Yup.  That's what it is to have an extremely active boy!  (He's no longer a "little" boy, but man... it's still true!)

From the beginning...

page from The Pattern Cookbook, 1890

Can you imagine stocking a kitchen from scratch in the 1890's?  So many expectations to fulfill, so many procedures to learn!  With a book like the one from which this page was copied, you could set a budget, complete the list to the best of your ability, and then, follow the recipes confidently.

Something like this list should be made for sewing supplies.  While I'm sure there are some somewhere... (Think Vogue Sewing, or the US Government Sewing Book from 1969), there are so many other options and alternatives nowadays, that even making decisions is daunting.

Stocking your sewing supplies as a newbie is not an easy task, and is made even more complicated by the insane barrage of new-fangled products available to us.  I've collected many old sewing and home-making books over the years, and noticed how they all seek to help people organize their priorities and tasks in the most efficient manner possible. But if you look to newer publications, they all seem to be "selling" something.  And, I suppose, it is because most of them in fact, are trying to sell you something. 

Inspired by the newbies who participated in my recent garment district tours, I offer some of the following ideas to get started.  These resources are all located in the district, but you can, of course branch out to whatever suits you as you gain confidence.

First off, let's make sure you have the right marking and cutting tools:

Fabric scissors (quality varies, so let your own budget and quality requirement be your guide)

Anywhere from $24 and up 

Marking pencils

White is always safe, but get whatever colors work for your project. ($2 - up)

Carbon Paper

assortment - $6 - up

Pins

Variety of options - $4 - up

Tracing wheel

$2 - up

Hand sewing needles

$4.00 - up

Thread

$2 - up

Interfacing

If beginner, start with woven, sew-in - rather than fusible.

Muslin

$2.50 yd - up

Pin cushion

$4.00 - up

Sewing table

Fancy or not - must be right height and strength for the job $70- up

Sewing chair

Anything will do, but be sure to consider comfort and ergonomoics

Sewing machine

Free, used, new, fancy - $35 and up, likely

Measuring tape

$1 - up

Ruler/Curve

$21 - up

Seam ripper

$3 - up

A reference book, with definitions

Example - $20 - up

I'd also suggest a subscription to a quality sewing publication or social networking group for encouragement and information.

Where do you find the things pictured above?  Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, Pacific Trimming, Steinlauf & Stoller, Around the World Books, and SIL, to start.

Everything else is optional, or to be considered on a case-by-case basis.

So, if you had NONE of the above items, you would expect to spend at least $250 on the low end, if you are not buying a new machine.  However, the value in the adoption of this new pursuit/craft/art/hobby is priceless.

10 Sewing Supplies You (actually I, really) Can't Do Without (and where to get them)

*This is a repost*

First of all, let me tell you that I know that this is a *trick*. Internet gurus tell me that people like lists.  Personally, I tend to ramble. 

 Why 10 things?  10 is as good a number as any... right?

Right?

10 Sewing Supplies You Can't Do Without

1. Household sewing needles, not just ORDINARY sewing needles.  These curve, stab, and manipulate strange terrain.  (Similar ones are linked here, available at Manhattan Wardrobe Supply) - The curved needles help repair a sofa, carpet, bind a book, seal a pillow, sew a slipcover, fix any awkward and unweilding shape or tough fabric!

2. Great scissors - I really love my own scissors, and can't be convinced otherwise, but the right scissors for a dedicated sewing enthusiast is like the right pencil for an artist, or instrument for a musician.  Frankly, though, I wouldn't say there are too many great choices.  There are only poor, mediocre, good enough, and PEERLESS!

Mine are about 30 years old, but they are still magical!

Where to get them: The advice on this is more than just a list of store names.  See this post for more information.

Also, know where to get them sharpened.

3. A ham

A necessity for sewing curved and hard-to-reach areas.  A good ham is a solid, heavy, densely packed tool that will last a lifetime.

Where to buy one: Steinlauf and Stoller

4. Silamide thread - for hand sewing and beading, especially.

Where to buy it: Manhattan Wardrobe Supply

5. A dress form (or, in my case two)

Where to buy one: Look at this post for suggestions.

6. A great (not good, but GREAT) mirror.  
You should be able to see your (or your intended wearer's) full body clearly in it.  Bonus points for portability and ability to tilt, like a cheval mirror. Added benefit; you can capture BOTH the front and back of a garment from the right angle in a well-positioned mirror.

This one is similar to mine, which is about 15 years old now.

Where to buy one:  This is an extreme solution, I know... but King David Gallery is the best place to get the best mirrors EVER.  Find your mirror, but it, the grab a taxi or have someone drive in to meet you to pick it up.  The prices are good, (so is the customer service) so you should even get a not-so-fancy mirror here, because it will be the BEST not-so-fancy mirror.

7. A good (but great is better) iron.  Depending on your space, you can get a fancy-schmancy gravity feed, or work with a lovely Rowenta or other quality brand.  It should steam well and with considerable "oomph", and it should have a pointy tip, perfect for getting into corners and difficult spots.

My own Rowenta - the third one I've owned in 25 years or so.

Where to buy one: Manhattan Sewing Supply (basic or fancy),  or City Sewing (fancier)

8. Quality muslin for test garments. What, you don't do this???  (LOL, I know we've all skipped this step when we can afford to)  But if you drape your own designs or test out your design before you sew with pricier fabric, your muslin needs to be on grain and mimic the weight and behavior of the fabric being sewn.  When working with woven fabric, and accuracy is important, quality muslin is a must.

Sturdy, medium weight muslin from S&S

Where to buy it: Steinlauf & Stoller or Guide Fabrics (larger quantities)

9. Quality interfacing.  Fusible, woven, black, white, heavy, light, tailoring canvas... you need the right interfacing to sculpt the shape you need, and stay strong throughout the life of the garment.

Where to buy it: Steinlauf & Stoller

10. Revolving leather hole punch.  This works for tough fabrics and leather!  I use mine "awl" the time!  And not just to sew - Sometimes a belt needs another hole, or I want to install grommets in something, or I have to attach leather tags to stuff to prevent it from being lost- I've used this contraption a million times for a million different reasons!

Where to buy one: M&J Trimming


So fine, yeah... in reality, there are more than ten supplies you'll need, but we've gotta start somewhere, right?

Right?

Is imitation the sincerest form...? (A pleating story, primarily)

This is an older story, but now, we are approaching appropriate weather for my creation, so I submit it to you, dear readers.

Once upon a time, I fell in love with the dress pictured above, and asked the folks at International Pleating if they could pleat some fabric for me to execute my own dress, inspired by this design. Click the link for the beautiful story of this historic family business.  Click this link, and this one, to see some work they have done for me, personally. This time, I wanted to do EXACTLY the white dress pictured above.  I was sure of it. That was actually more than a year ago... but I haven't reported on this project until now.

Back then, I went searching for fabric to make EXACTLY that dress in my own color choice, and found this combo - both purchased from Metro Textiles:

So, International Pleating pleated the brown silk on the cross-grain, turning it into something so texturally beautiful and graceful, I was almost afraid to cut into it. It started to whisper to me that it wanted to be something else.

Pleated charmeuse fabric, after sitting, untouched and rolled for a few months...

I steamed it a bit to get the little "kinks" out, and the fabric obeyed beautifully. I was ready to cut.

And cut it, I did.  

On the dress form, I shaped the lace portion of the dress differently, and created the beginnings of something that looked lovely on a dress form, but pretty awful on me. Note: the above dress design REALLY exaggerates a large bosom, and kinda makes you look like a kid.  Patent leather tap shoes and an oversized lollipop would complete the Shirley Temple look it gave me.  Basically, I wouldn't suggest it, unless that's what you're going for...

So, after a few other permutations, sighing, pacing, thinking, putting it away and taking out, etc., I sculpted a patternless top that I probably manipulated several hundred times in my head, on the dress form, and on my own body before it sang to me.

And sing to me, it did.

From the back, which is nearly identical to the front...

My husband loves the deep brown color, as do I... it works well on brown skin. The horizontal back seam was subsequently flattened by being very narrowly serged and pressed upward to the lace side, so it has a bit of a "shadow" at the edge of the seam, which is fine, in my opinion.  The top has lace extends beyond the shoulder, and curves at the at the cap to create a graceful bit of a sleeve. The top hangs to the hipline, and is extremely lightweight.  *Can only be worn with a strapless bra beneath.

So did I copy the dress?  No, I made a blouse.  I just kept the lace shouldered/pleats below inspiration.

Funny that I should EVER want to copy anything exactly, with all the possibilities that exist out there in the world.  After all, what would the point be, really? We've all read about Target copying that boring  t-shirt, when there is simply an unfathomable number of ways to decorate the blank canvas of a T-shirt! Why bother, Target?

On the process:

Because I appreciate the beauty of the pleating so much, I didn't want to interfere with, or complicate, the design.  The blouse is simply two rectangles for the body, and two rectangles for the neckline/sleeve.  Important to know: how to sew seams in pleated fabric so the seams are invisible in the texture of the pleating, and how to hem pleated fabric, if desired.  You can hem fabric before pleating, or use the selvedge edge, or hem the fabric yourself, and appreciate the "lettuce" effect it causes.  International Pleating will walk you through these considerations.  

Is this affordable?

Yes.  In fact, astoundingly so, in my opinion.

On Being original:

Is imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, or is using the art of others as inspiration an even more sincere form? When tempted to copy something you've seen exactly, (which usually comes with some inexplicable feeling of disappointment, somehow) it may be good to question whether you just too scared to leap into your own imagination.  These are some thoughts to ponder on your creative journey...


Side notes:

And when it comes to artistic pursuits, is anyone noticing the rush of sound-alike music playing everywhere lately?

Pharrell Blurred Lines Controversy

Usher She Came to Give it to You vs. Just be Good to Me by the SOS Band

Ed Sheeran Thinking Out Loud vs. Marvin Gaye Let's Get it On

Sam Smith's Stay with Me vs. Tome Petty's Won't Back Down

When it comes to the Garment District specifically, though...

Wanna take a tour?  Click the link to see dates and options.

Short on time in the district? Want a shorter, lower priced trip? Click here for another option.

Wanna go shopping for free? MPB Day  Peter of Male Pattern Boldness always hosts great  shopping parties!

Need more garment district services? There are many...

NY Embroidery Studio
First2Print
Star Snaps
Quick Fusing
Botani
Jonathan Embroidery
Steinlauf & Stoller
Westpfal (scissor sharpening)
City Sewing

So no, don't imitate anything exactly.  Do your own version of what you do, using whatever makes your interpretation special!  There are so many ways to do things, taking details to twist and turn and change, and it is great to make your own statement, whether the the people you encounter "appreciate" your version or not!

As always, there is just so much more to say... and I'll share more later!

What happened to Woolworth's, Greenberg & Hammer, La Button Boutique, A&G, K Trimming, Art Max, So-Good Ribbons... and.... and

Once upon a time, in the garment district, there was:

Greenberg & Hammer: 

This place can't be duplicated.  An old Shop the Garment District post acknowledges the loss. Old fashioned business, knowledgeable staff, wonderful, and peerless products.  Winning product, sadly now unfindable - is great tailoring-weight interfacing.  Best current substitute vendor?  Try Steinlauf & Stoller

La Button Boutique: 

Wonderful button store, FULL of an amazing array of wonderful buttons.  Floor to ceiling, beautifully curated selection.  Best current substitutes?  Buttonology (for beautiful and eclectic), Pacific Trimming (great prices and variety), M&J (quality and uniqueness, if you don't mind the prices), and Daytona Trimming (if you simply enjoy the ride, and are open to whatever you find)

A&G Trimming and K Trimming:  

The jam-packed aisles of K Trimming won't be forgotten...

These places were unique in their offerings, much like Daytona Trimming is now. I assume it eventually just becomes a story of "when it's gone, it's gone"...

Woolworth's: 

The huge, multi-level Woolworth store location (on 34th Street) was once a great place to buy sewing notions.  Of course I was a child then, but I still have tools my mother bought there waaaay back when... A seam ripper, a tomato pin-cushion.... From a time when things were absolutely made to last!  Best modern alternative for similar products? Fashion Design Books near Fashion Institute of Technology.

Art Max Fabrics: 

One of my favorite early places to shop as a teen, I found the fabrics for my early Issey Miyake pattern experiments there! Loved every bit of shopping there...  Thinking back, I probably should have just had my allowance and early paychecks wired to them directly. Best modern alternative?  Rosen & Chadick

US Liberty Fabric: 

No pics, no links... just... nothin'. Poof! Washed silks and soft cottons with such beautiful prints, I just couldn't bear the beauty.  They moved upstairs to a less retail-friendly location, and seem to have faded away in the years since.  Best modern alternative?  Fabrics & Fabrics has some really awesome stuff...

So-Good Ribbons:  

Looks like this store has bid us adieu as well.  Best modern alternatives?  Mokuba (if you can ignore the price LEAP!) and Daytona Trimming.

Do you miss the district stores of yesteryear?  Come along on the Stroll Down Memory Lane Speakeasy!  Click the link for details!