A photo essay... the highlights of a garment district trip or two... or three, maybe?

There's more to these stories.  This is what the garment district looked like a few months ago (August). Go to my Insta for more...

 

Riding in an EMPTY subway car

Beautiful flower from Schmalberg

Gotta use some bleach to make these work...

Fabric pleated

Metro Textiles brings NYC's garment district to YOU!!!

Wanna shop the garment district, but can't come to the garment district?  Here's your answer!

About the future, your great-grandkids... Sustainability

Yesterday, during the church sermon, seated next to my daughter, our Rev. used this passage...

Luke 12:33 

Sell your possessions and give to the poor. Provide purses for yourselves that will not wear out, a treasure in heaven that will never fail, where no thief comes near and no moth destroys.

She happened to be carrying a purse I made years before she was born, which we still giggle about whenever someone says to her, "Nice purse!" because it simply refuses to age.  While the meaning of that passage is bigger than a simple purse, it really resonated with us.

Should you choose to watch the video above, it describes a labor-intensive task that no one unfamiliar with its cultural relevance or history would likely undertake, but the meaning and future-oriented perspective of this process remains strikingly profound.

As sewing has become a genuine love, habit, and talent I nourish ceaselessly, it has found a new meaning for me, as I do far less of it professionally than I once did.  It isn't just clothing and accessories; it really is part of life-building.  Like a farmer farms and grows livestock to sustain himself, his family, and his business, the endeavor is is productive as it is eucharistic. (Side note: use of the word "eucharistic", inspired by an episode of "My Mother's Ravioli" with Mo Rocca, that really touched me deeply.)

So, what lasts? If I look around at things I made long ago, that seem to NEVER die, and I can tell you what I've learned from experience:

Rosen & Chadick - the wools, the pant weight twills, washed linens and fantastic shirtings have lived a million lives as clothing in my house.  I've made coats from their fantastic wools, and have never been at all disappointed with the quality.  Never. Someone may say to me "Nice pants", and I start my answer with... "You will never believe this, but I made these 15 years ago..." 

NY Elegant - Their stretch knits, jerseys, and soft, drapey knits have some kinda magical powers that they wash and last so well.  I have been amazed by how long even my most abused tops and comfort clothes made from their fabrics have lasted.

Metro Textiles - Not only does he have a good eye for beautiful fabrics, Kashi has a great eye for quality fabrics. I've got many older pieces in my closet, made from goods purchased with him.


This is not to say that other things don't last, but these are the three places that amaze me with the quality of their goods. I don't know that many people set out to make a shirt with a 15 year life span, but what fun when it happens accidentally!

What about creativity?

Sometimes, you get an idea for a new way to use some fabric that you just wanna use.  And what can happen in the creative process, is the creation of something that is uniquely, and specifically "you".

Over the holidays this year, I was absently fondling some fabric, letting creative ideas marinate in my brain,  when my sister-in-law said to me, what will you use that fabric for?

Purchased at Metro Textiles, during a Speakeasy.

Too loud and too hefty for a skirt, too specific (occasional wear) for a skirt, too Dr. Seuss to simply be the "guest star" in a garment, I knew I wanted to use it in a way that didn't require too much shaping or many seams.  So in love with this funky fabric, I feared it languishing in my stash for too long if an immediate decision wasn't reached, I announced my intention. I wanted it to be fully front and center on a pair of apron/utility pants design idea that had lived in my head for a while now.

Note: I NEVER placed this fabric in the stash.

"I have a utility-apron pants idea. With a much smaller apron than you're imagining." I said.

"Do you mean, like... a loin cloth?" She asked.

A denim loincloth, from an FIT exhibit.

"Yes, but a shaped one!  With splits in the front and back, so i can sit down easily, and everything stays in place!"

Strangely enough, this is also a popular yoga pant look, but done in a far less interesting way.

So, now I've made the pants, or, in reality, added a loincloth and waistband to an old pair of pants.  And in doing so, gave a new life to a great pair of pants I made in 2008, but never wear nowadays (for no good reason).

Pants fabric purchased from Rosen and Chadick - it never dies!  Washes like a dream! Doesn't fade!

One apron panel flipped up, to reveal pants beneath... 

These pants are more than pants to me.  They are the kind of thing I wear without a thought, and then begin to notice knowing nods from fellow creatives, and confused stares from others as I navigate my daily life.  These pants will greet me in the closet, telling me to put them on, reassuring me that no one else has to like them, promising me that they will stay on and stay up, because they conform to my body shape, and no one else's.  These pants are my companion, and I am excited to wear them out somewhere very soon.

The reveal (see previous post)

Not many words, really.  Just the photos.  I'm proud of it.  It isn't mine, and I nearly tear up at the thought of having to part with it.

As detailed in my previous post, the fabric was purchased at Rosen & Chadick (double faced wool), Metro Textiles (lining), fur (NY Elegant) and zipper (Botani).  I hand sculpted this jacket.  No pattern.

Many hours, lots of sweat, tears... a bit of blood, too. I took no shortcuts, and it was commissioned by a beloved friend/client, so I hope she loves it as much as I do!

My headless dress form wears a hood...

A magical, warm lining... this jacket is for cold Michigan winters!

To carry the weight of the hood on the shoulders while keeping the fur away from the neck, I created a "rolled stand" (my own term), and made the edges of the hood angle upwards (away from the collar), so it wouldn't be too confining.)

a bound pocket

Keep warm, everyone... and happy Thanksgiving!

Why you should create and/or design your own projects (To be followed by Why you should NOT create and/or design your own projects)

Previous (related) post: Why you should NOT hire a dressmaker

Why should you make your own projects?  Well, I assume you are reading this blog because you already know why.  But I'll gladly give you my opinion, too.

If you are starting from the very basics of sewing/designing/creating, you can take classes or find a tutor, although they are few and far-between these days.  And the beauty of the garment district is that it is full of resources and services that can get you to your finished product without investing in machinery or tools yourself!

Example:

Grommets installed in my "cradle bag" by Star Snaps

Top zipper cut to size by Botani

Have you ever thought about what it means to be unique?  How about "ladylike"?  Well, if that is important to you, you may find it difficult to find in stores without being dowdy, or weird, given today's fashion offerings.  If you want the freedom not to be ladylike or standard, you can find that too, but are you finding what you want?  I am a huge advocate of buying what you love when you find it, but so much of what I've seen is positively yawn-worthy, lately.

Speaking of freedom, how about freedom from wallet-busting current trends?  I am not getting much of what's going on in the fashion landscape right now, but, thank God I can continue to make my own stuff and ignore the rest entirely.

And, well, because HALLOWEEN will come again.

Let's say you haven't been making your own stuff, or you haven't been as productive as you planned to be when you bought all of your supplies, or your poor, neglected stash is screaming your name lately...  Where do you start?

Well, many people start with profoundly ambitious goals, and stop when they feel they have fallen short or failed.  To avoid this cycle, I recommend a very unambitious, unconventional start.

Go to the garment district, WITHOUT planning to spend any money (Yes, ON PURPOSE!).  Treat the stores like a museum visit, and gather ideas.  While in the district, visit the exhibits, idea inspiring spots, and bookstores for images and new inspiration. You will have ideas for embellishing things, ideas for making things, ideas for having things made for you... just ideas.  Buy only what you cannot live without, and, for the rest of it...  sleep on it.  Yes, leave it right there. For a night, a week, or whatever amount of time you need.  The things that really stick with you will still be in your head, and you will need to go back and get them.

The last step of the above detailed plan is dangerous, though.  I'll tell you why...

There are a few stores, and sections of other stores, where you'd really better buy what you fall in love with, because it seriously may be gone later, and I'll tell you which stores those are (based on my own experiences), to save you some heartache:

Paron Fabrics

Metro Textiles

Elliott Berman

Here's the good GREAT thing: Fabric has no expiration date!  So, if you buy it, and practice good storage methods, you are not limited to any short timeframe at all.  Ask me know I know... (smile)

Next post: Why you should NOT Create and/or design your own projects 

Clothes are more than just fabric... they are communication...

We are always changing and evolving.  Our tastes and needs are always changing and evolving, too.

Lately, I've been getting requests from people who are looking for all different kinds of things.  They want fabric to dance in, to decorate something, for certain kinds of parties... I think people are looking for feelings, more than "definitions" of fabric types.  So, what i end up doing, if pointing them at stores they might like to look.  And I try to give a few choices in different price ranges, so they can determine for themselves which is best for their needs.  The stores all have different personalities.  Some stores are really tough to shop if you cannot name what you are looking for.

So today, I offer food for thought.  If you are like me, clothing is a way to express yourself, to communicate, to enhance your appearance and personal expression, to dance to beat of your own drummer!  Old or young, spry, feeble, or graceful, you can create what agrees with what you (or the intended user) want to wear/carry/have.  After all, isn't that the beauty of being able to create? 

Oh, and what a thrill it must be to have your own husband design for you (see video below)! For a beautiful fabric like the kind her dress is made of, I would look at Elliott Berman, Rosen & Chadick, NY Elegant, or Metro Textiles.

Now for a completely different take on a unique way of dressing...

Note: The following video takes you to some touchy subjects, depending on your point of view, so be forewarned if you aren't comfortable with issues surrounding an honest account of a human being's discoveries and introspective questioning surrounding her own sexuality and appearance.

Having said that, will you take a moment to appreciate the wild patchwork of fabric that makes up her ensemble? To mimic this in any way at all, I would go to Spandex House for the pants fabric, NY Elegant for the shirt fabric, someplace like Chic Fabrics for the main jacket fabric, and someplace like Paron or TruMart for the scarf fabric.



And then, although this is the outfit of my dreams (below), I'd need the attitude, legs and courage to wear it... but then I'd have nowhere to go in it. 

Sigh...

The chainmail, if you're thinking about it for yourself,  can be found at B&J Fabrics, though, and then, of course, used in countless other ways...

Any of the stores mentioned above can be found on the where to shop list here.

All is quiet

Things are awfully quiet in the district right now. This post is encouragement to put your money where your heart is...

Other than M&J Trimming and Mood, when was the last time you had to actually STAND ON LINE in a garment store?

Really, think about it...

Things are pretty quiet in the district these days.  Sure, many design businesses get their goods over the phone, online, and by sending assistants, gophers and interns to swatch, so when you shop nowadays, you've got a pretty good amount of elbow room in many of the district's best places.  If you read this blog, you already know where to go to find wonderful things!

We need these stores to stay in business and thrive.  We need them to continue to have great things for us to buy!

A recent Speakeasy participant told me that she used to sew long ago, but her interest was recently rekindled when she discovered that the things she truly would like to buy are not available in stores.  Tired of settling, she realized she could make things!

How about you?  I'm in a very creative moment right now, working to make beautiful things with fabric I've had for some time.  Here are some ideas that sing to me:

Roman shades!



Recovering an old chair/sofa!

 
Making a new dress - kinda inspired by this!

Using patterns and colors that delight!

Showcasing features, colors and textures that excite me personally!

My machine is humming... more later!

Now is the time for Italian ponte knits at Metro Textiles!

I love ponte knits.  You know what I'm talking about, don't you?  That tough, resilient knit that holds, stays, performs, and lasts... and lasts?

Scans of swatches of the wonderful fabric won't do it justice.  You have to see/feel it for yourself!

Well, I've been checking out some lovely rayon Italian ponte knit fabrics from Kashi.  In my case, I went for the standby solids black and white, which I will use to make a non-color blocked something or other... But the possibilities are endless!  When you stretch it, it recovers.  When you scrunch it, it forgets, resisting any wrinkles.  Feel it, and it has body.  A picture?  Well, you get what look like a black and white square.  the experience is different.

Ready for a secret?  Here's the deal... lean in....

For my blog readers exclusively, Kashi is offering a beautiful discount on these fabrics.  A mere $9.50 a yard.  58" wide.  No kidding!  Oh... and he'll ship, too!  You pay the cost of shipping of course, but he will quote you the shipping cost, so you can confirm beforehand.

But wait, there are more colors.  Interested?  You have to call, visit, or email him and ask for the color you want.

Do make a point of visiting, if you're able! He gets new fabrics in every day!

Metro Textiles

265 W 37th St # 908

New York, NY 10018

(212) 209-0004

MetroTextiles@aol.com

New to ponte knits? 

Read this great blog post about working with ponte knits.

All about Kashi... An update on Metro Textile

Metro Textile

265 W 37th St # 908

New York, NY 10018

(Standard business hours are Mon-Fri 9-6)

212-209-0004

Well, we know what pictures are worth...

Fall is here in New York City.
This lovely sueded grey fabric, perfect for a dress, skirt, or pants, just called my name...

Metro was the source for this fabric before pleating (on top) and then...

Became this skirt!  If you've been following this blog, you remember.

A while back, I found  a deliciously brown charmeuse and lace combo...

And, using this photo as my inspiration...

I chose to pleat the charmeuse at International Pleating 
and create a blouse inspired by this dress! 
(I decided a blouse was better. I want to sit without crushing the pleats.) 

I really love different versions and color combos of camouflage, 
and this is one I particularly adore... it will be another fall/winter jacket.

And of course I love this... the softest, coziest stretch knit ever...

Hey, I liked the purple, too...  That became a shirt I love.

Here's what you need to know about Metro Textiles' proprietor, Kashi.

No longer a "secret" of the district, it seems, his curatorial eye is just wonderful, and he treats his customers like royalty.  Go in, tell him I sent you, and see what happens... seriously.

Here's the kicker. No one pays me to write these things, run this site, or promote their businesses.  I do it out of genuine love for the businesses and creative supplies the vendors offer, and then I talk about them here. 

I must tell you specifically, that Kashi, the person, is a special case.

Ask him "How are you?" and stay for the story.  He is a deeply caring and faithful man, who has a great, uniquely philosophical outlook on life.  There are plenty of places to go in the garment district, to pick up this or that, but he's got some seriously awesome choices stuffed into that little space, at outrageously great prices.  Visit this store, make your purchase, ask him what's great, what's new, what's special... and he will tell and show you.

To shop here, think garment sewing primarily.  While crafters and home dec enthusiasts will find things there, too, the garment sewing fabrics are far more plentiful.

When you decide to go in and see what he's all about (whether for the first time or as a visitor), do me a few favors please.  Swatching, and we know you mean well, is an incredible time waster.  Fabrics have no expiration date.  You love it, you buy it, that's it.  No need to think endlessly, swatch and sigh, wonder and consider.  Just take the plunge.  I've done that plenty of times. I haven't regretted it.  A good sized stash fuels my creativity. And frankly, a good sized stash is good for you.

It can be overwhelming to be in a small space with lots and lots of fabric, and you may need someone who helps you focus, relax, and isolate what you love.  The store is generally quiet, and Kashi will guide you to what you need/want.

So, here's the thing.  Go.  Don't call, don't call to swatch, don't ponder... just go.  He has got an enormously wide range of things to see.  And crazy affordably. Tell him I sent you. I just have a sliver (but considerably more than I've shown here) of what he's got, but I am truly a fan of that store, and after a visit, you will be, too!