Why fine fabrics are worth it...

I wrote this post years ago, and maintain that it is still as relevant today.  I have since changed the buttons (last year) on this coat to a far more interesting, bold, and stylish choice, and routinely receive great unsolicited compliments while strolling through the city.  Feels great.  And cozy. And like ME.  No one else.

All told, this exact coat probably cost is about $350 in materials to make, and, what I would estimate was $800 in labor or so.  And that was in 2009. So, no, not a coat I would choose to/could afford if it were even available for purchase.

Originally posted 10/16/09


Feeling like Kathleen Turner's character at the beginning of "Romancing the Stone", I just completed such a big, long-awaited, satisfying project, that, if I were a drinker, I would pour a glass of celebratory champagne. I never meant to be sewing this coat during the winter weather, but it isn't my fault. Seriously. I am actually right on time, and it is winter that has come early. 

In this mid-October "coldwave", I am now peacefully transferring my long-awaited coat from the sewing table to the closet. I promised myself that I would not post this until everything about this coat was complete, and now, with buttons on, hem done, final pressing finished, and stray threads clipped... it is ready to wear.




Completion date (10/16/09) Vogue Pattern 2038, issued in 1997, which marks exactly how long I have owned it.

Eventual HUGE (2 1/2" diameter) buttons I chose after writing the related posts.
Closure is false (no buttonholes) - closes instead with heavy snaps inside.

From original post: 

I put this plan into action several (make that many...) weeks ago.

Yes, I'm telling the story backwards. This post is what allows me to release the rest of the posts written earlier in the process. (See my old blog to read the rest of the tale.) Why? Because it is painful to try to live up to my own timeframe of how long I think each project should take, and trying to resist the urge to work hastily just to proudly post results on the blog. With a finished project, I can confidently and peacefully share the process, with complete knowledge of how things turned out, with a bigger picture appreciation of how it all came together, rather than dwelling on any obstacles I encountered, or minor changes I made... you get the idea. (Written 9/23, with a half-constructed coat)


Okay, so I can't throw it on to go to the supermarket or to run my daughter to dance class, although the shape and fit are casual. Why not? Because, worn with sweatpants or similar garb, this coat can easily go in the "Bag Lady" direction, despite the quality of the expensive (but totally worth it!) fabric used to make it.

This coat took me 3 months to complete. Not because it was so time consuming, but that's how much time it took me to find the free moments where I had enough energy, attention and passion to sew it. I made use of every little inch of creative personal time I could squeeze, and now I'm glad I started in the hottest blast of summer.

What I love about it most, though, is that during this process, I must have put this coat on at least 20 times, and now, with it completed, it really feels like a coat! I have full confidence that this coat will be as warm as any store-bought coat I own, and the weight of the fabric is just right for me.

Fabric source: Cashmere/wool blend from Rosen and Chadick

Buttons: M&J Trimming

Lining and binding: NY Elegant Fabrics

If you want to read the rest, start here, and click "newer post" at the end of the first post. And then, if you come back to this page again, click here for another.

That's a lot of back and forth, huh?  Maybe I'll pull some old posts over, with current commentary.

Oh, and I forgot to comment on why the title of this post is "Why Fine Fabrics are Worth It"  Did I mention that this coat looks like BRAND SPANKIN' NEW every time i put it on?  That it hangs like a dream?  That it feels like the coziest, most luxurious blanket you could ever imagine?  That the color is outta this world magical?  So... that's it.

Reader Question Time: Where to Find Home Decor Fabric

Essex sofa from West Elm

Reader Candis asks: "Any upholstery shops in the Garment District?"

While NYC's Garment District is the mecca for fashion fabric, I wouldn't make any pilgrimages here solely to buy home decor fabric. That being said, there are a few places that do sell home dec fabrics for upholstery, window treatments and other home fashion applications. Mood Fabrics has an entire level and staff devoted to home decor fabrics, and you can find some gorgeous things here. Ebad Fabrics on Eighth Avenue has a small selection of home dec fabrics at bargain prices. And last week I discovered that Prime Fabrics on W. 35th is dedicating its upper level to selling home dec fabrics and trims. They are adding new inventory daily.

If you're open to considering fashion fabrics, then your options expand exponentially. Not so long ago I shared a cutting table at B&J Fabrics with two interior designers who were using a thick gray wool to cover some club chairs. M&J Trims has a very large selection of home decor trims and accoutrements. I'd check out the stores on W. 39th Street too, just because you never know what you'll find there.

Am I missing any other home decor sources in the Garment District? Let me know!

Prime Fabrics on W. 35th near Seventh Avenue now has home decor fabrics on its upper level.

More home decor fabrics at Prime.

NYC Trim Store Review: M&J Trimming

Address: 1008 Sixth Avenue (near W. 38th)
Phone: 1-800-9-MJTRIM
Store hours: Monday - Friday, 9:00 am - 7:00 pm; Saturday, 10:00 am - 6:00 pm; Sunday 12:00 pm - 5:00 pm
Online store: M&J Trimming
Best for: All the embellishments you need to take your garments from "loving hands at home" to haute couture

No visit to the Garment District would be complete without a trip to M&J Trimming.

I wish my photos did better justice to this emporium of all things embellishment. You'll just have to take my word that M&J Trimming is retail nirvana for trims, beads, appliqués, buttons, cords, ribbons, sequins, sew-on jewels, nailheads, rhinestones and much, much more. M&J Trimming has an excellent online store but it only represents about a fraction of what you'll find at the real thing on Sixth Avenue.

What I love about M&J:

• If you're looking for trim by color, you won't just have a handful of choices in that color--you could have fifty to a hundred different options. It's almost mind-boggling.
• The store has these nice big counters where you can spread out your garment and try out all the various things you've grabbed. No one bothers you while you agonize over which embellishment works best.
• The staff is mostly young and look like they've never sewn a seam in their life, but they are very knowledgeable about the store's inventory and friendly to boot.
• The store is actually open on Saturdays and Sundays! And hidden in the rear of the store, next to the restroom (extra points for having a restroom!), there are shelves with all the sale items. You can always find some interesting stuff back here on sale.

Now some people say M&J is pricey but I think their prices are fairly reasonable for the quality of the merchandise. They carry some of the basics you'll find in your local Joann's or Hancock's but M&J's prices are generally the same on these goods, not higher. You may be floored to pay $35 a yard for beaded trim but you can be guaranteed the trim will make your outfit. M&J's is one of the best places to shop for braids to adorn that Chanel jacket you've always wanted to make; I purchased some beautiful chocolate-brown velvet braid here for my Chanel-style jacket.

A view of M&J looking out toward Sixth Avenue. Love the high ceilings.

Here are those big counters that are perfect for spreading out your garment as you experiment with different embellishments.

A bulletin board calls your attention to the newest additions.

The selection at M&J's is what keeps me coming back again and again. Just look at all these suede tassels in different sizes and colors.