All action, no talk...

Last steps - professional shoe guy will adhere topsole/insole to heel, I will finish black edges (join), and gold cushion piece for elastic at back heel.

I'll answer your questions, if you have any...

Led a Speakeasy today (1/20) oh... and today (1/21) - oh and writing about it today (1/25)!

Took a while to begin writing this post... why?

Life's been a bit busy, I'd say!  Well, actually, that's a wildly inaccurate understatement, as I've done nothing but push through appointments, lead tours, and pound out piles of work over the past two weeks or so... but I digress...

I led two Speakeasies last week, and, just as an aside, I must mention my obsession with Wasabi, a UK based fast-food sushi place on the corner of 40th and 7th, that does their job so perfectly, I don't even know how to adequately express my fascination with it.  The lovely bites are always perfectly fresh (whether vegetable or fish) and beautifully presented in meticulously artful to-go (or stay) arrangements, and wonderfully priced for what is offered.  I really enjoy dining in or taking out, and just the speed and efficiency of this place make the whole experience enjoyable. Great energy food, by the way.

So... What happened on the Speakeasies?  Frankly, we all saw too many great things to crunch them into one blog post, so I will list the highlights... (Note: I'm mixing the days together, so not everyone saw the same stores... There's only so much time in a day!)

Botani - Have you seen their new fabric space? We (speakeasiers) casually walked past a sign boasting customizeable fabrics, just to take a peek... I asked the question, "What do your mean, customize?" - I got the answer.  All of the aspects you weren't even thinking were customizeable.  Color? Yup.  Your own color? Not a color card they give you?  Yup.  Fiber content? Yup?  Custom blend? Yup.  Okay, so they will go pretty far to meet your specifications.  When you're done you've got something no one can duplicate, because no one else had it made for them!  Totally unique.  Others can imitate, of course, but that takes time, research and investment... good luck with that, right?

Pacific Trimmings had a delightful arrangement of clasps and wildly fun things as usual. The rainbow toothed RiRi zipper option was a fun sighting, as it always is!

C&J - wowza.  As always.  A special look at the prints and specials on the shelves made the visit wildly inspiring.

B&J - Do they ever disappoint?  Nope.  I don't think so. What a glorious selection of cottons, ponte knits, printed silks, unusual blends, and beautiful colors!

MJ Trimming - While they have reduced some space and inventory, they still have great stuff to offer!  The clearance area is also particularly interesting!

NY Elegant - Upstairs always yields surprises, the rack of panels always yields sighs, and the main floor... need I say more?

Fabrics & Fabrics - What a joy. Whoever is pulling out rolls of "special" goods to highlight on the floor is REALLY doing his/her job right!

Okay, while I could list about seven or eight more stores, it was a blast for all of us on both days! Really intense visits in a tight sequence with no wasted time, tired legs, and heads spinning! It was a true fabric lovers' celebration!

From the beginning...

page from The Pattern Cookbook, 1890

Can you imagine stocking a kitchen from scratch in the 1890's?  So many expectations to fulfill, so many procedures to learn!  With a book like the one from which this page was copied, you could set a budget, complete the list to the best of your ability, and then, follow the recipes confidently.

Something like this list should be made for sewing supplies.  While I'm sure there are some somewhere... (Think Vogue Sewing, or the US Government Sewing Book from 1969), there are so many other options and alternatives nowadays, that even making decisions is daunting.

Stocking your sewing supplies as a newbie is not an easy task, and is made even more complicated by the insane barrage of new-fangled products available to us.  I've collected many old sewing and home-making books over the years, and noticed how they all seek to help people organize their priorities and tasks in the most efficient manner possible. But if you look to newer publications, they all seem to be "selling" something.  And, I suppose, it is because most of them in fact, are trying to sell you something. 

Inspired by the newbies who participated in my recent garment district tours, I offer some of the following ideas to get started.  These resources are all located in the district, but you can, of course branch out to whatever suits you as you gain confidence.

First off, let's make sure you have the right marking and cutting tools:

Fabric scissors (quality varies, so let your own budget and quality requirement be your guide)

Anywhere from $24 and up 

Marking pencils

White is always safe, but get whatever colors work for your project. ($2 - up)

Carbon Paper

assortment - $6 - up

Pins

Variety of options - $4 - up

Tracing wheel

$2 - up

Hand sewing needles

$4.00 - up

Thread

$2 - up

Interfacing

If beginner, start with woven, sew-in - rather than fusible.

Muslin

$2.50 yd - up

Pin cushion

$4.00 - up

Sewing table

Fancy or not - must be right height and strength for the job $70- up

Sewing chair

Anything will do, but be sure to consider comfort and ergonomoics

Sewing machine

Free, used, new, fancy - $35 and up, likely

Measuring tape

$1 - up

Ruler/Curve

$21 - up

Seam ripper

$3 - up

A reference book, with definitions

Example - $20 - up

I'd also suggest a subscription to a quality sewing publication or social networking group for encouragement and information.

Where do you find the things pictured above?  Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, Pacific Trimming, Steinlauf & Stoller, Around the World Books, and SIL, to start.

Everything else is optional, or to be considered on a case-by-case basis.

So, if you had NONE of the above items, you would expect to spend at least $250 on the low end, if you are not buying a new machine.  However, the value in the adoption of this new pursuit/craft/art/hobby is priceless.

All about the July 27 Speakeasy... What happens on a Speakeasy

It was a great day. We formed a small huddle at our meeting spot, where I explained how to navigate the wild fabric adventure upon which we were about to embark.

Normally, I would keep the secrets of a Speakeasy, but since there won't be another until Fall, and so much of it is "right now" information, I will happily share this time...

I am writing this post in real time today... just for fun... so this post will just be continuously updated as I write.  Enjoy... and if you comment or ask questions, I'll see them, because I'm right here!

So... what did I tell the group in the huddle?

I told them what to do/not to do when they find a fabric they love, how to know if they are getting a good price, different ways to tackle common pitfalls of the district, and got a feel for what they hoped to see, and where they had already been.

Our first stop was Paron Fabrics.  Why? Because they currently have a 40% off sale!  Deeper than their usual 25%, and in my scouting before the weekend, I saw some of the dreamiest things I could imagine!  A lovely, cozy striped jersey that defies description (one of the tour participants bought it - there may not be any left by the time you read this), a random eyelet in a great, magical coral shade, some heavenly silk prints, and a delightful silk ombre that had one of the tour participant's name all over it! 

Was that the most fun?  Nope... not yet...

There is a new trim store in the district, gradually filling in inventory.  Very neatly organized and of great appeal to the creative brain, the shelves are full of interesting buckled, crystals, beads, and embellishments of every kind.  A tour participant who makes costumes was particularly interested in the crystals.

But personally, I loved these buttons...

The store is called Lauren Trimming, Inc.  and they welcome both retail and wholesale customers.

Contact info below:

Lauren Trimming, Inc.

247 West 37th Street

New York, NY 10018

Conversations with the participants in that store led me to suggest our next stop, not originally in the plan, but necessary because we started to talk about possibilities in leather and suede:

Leather Suede Skins

251 West 35th Street

Suite 1100

We headed upstairs together, amid mumbles of "How would I even know this is here?", waited to be buzzed in, and breathed a collective gasp at the magic we found inside.  They always have fun stuff inside.  Once many years ago, I found this fabric, and made myself a baguette, to which my daughter is now desperately attached...

The baguette...

And while exploring options, it became abundantly clear that the group needed to see Manhattan Wardrobe Supply.  What a fantastic place for all the notions, supplies, and tools you never thought you needed.  Wanna feel some fantastic elastic?  You have to feel it in person to understand...  They also have a great website, and run many great sales on the website!  Don't feel left out, New York City Folks... You can even buy things on the website and come by to pick them up! When I go there, i go for the wonderful bust support products they have, that help me make swimsuits that can make the well-endowed look like rock stars!

I made this (years ago) for a HH cup -  with some help of supplies found at Manhattan Wardrobe Supply

So, by then, it was time to eat. Over lunch, we talked about many things, and I gave specific suggestions for places to fit each person's quest.  I also included some who would be particularly fun right now, because of specific things they have to offer, and mentioned the places EVERYONE knows about, if they still had energy for that afterward.

When we finished lunch, we headed over to Pacific Trimming, where people were happy to find inspiration and purchased embellishments, zippers, buttons, elastics, and such.

Pooped and happy, we ended our day at Pacific, and bid each other a very satisfied adieu!

Wanna come on a Speakeasy?  Updated info can always be found here!

Okay, I'm done with this post now. Got questions or comments? Let me know in the comments below!

What happened to Woolworth's, Greenberg & Hammer, La Button Boutique, A&G, K Trimming, Art Max, So-Good Ribbons... and.... and

Once upon a time, in the garment district, there was:

Greenberg & Hammer: 

This place can't be duplicated.  An old Shop the Garment District post acknowledges the loss. Old fashioned business, knowledgeable staff, wonderful, and peerless products.  Winning product, sadly now unfindable - is great tailoring-weight interfacing.  Best current substitute vendor?  Try Steinlauf & Stoller

La Button Boutique: 

Wonderful button store, FULL of an amazing array of wonderful buttons.  Floor to ceiling, beautifully curated selection.  Best current substitutes?  Buttonology (for beautiful and eclectic), Pacific Trimming (great prices and variety), M&J (quality and uniqueness, if you don't mind the prices), and Daytona Trimming (if you simply enjoy the ride, and are open to whatever you find)

A&G Trimming and K Trimming:  

The jam-packed aisles of K Trimming won't be forgotten...

These places were unique in their offerings, much like Daytona Trimming is now. I assume it eventually just becomes a story of "when it's gone, it's gone"...

Woolworth's: 

The huge, multi-level Woolworth store location (on 34th Street) was once a great place to buy sewing notions.  Of course I was a child then, but I still have tools my mother bought there waaaay back when... A seam ripper, a tomato pin-cushion.... From a time when things were absolutely made to last!  Best modern alternative for similar products? Fashion Design Books near Fashion Institute of Technology.

Art Max Fabrics: 

One of my favorite early places to shop as a teen, I found the fabrics for my early Issey Miyake pattern experiments there! Loved every bit of shopping there...  Thinking back, I probably should have just had my allowance and early paychecks wired to them directly. Best modern alternative?  Rosen & Chadick

US Liberty Fabric: 

No pics, no links... just... nothin'. Poof! Washed silks and soft cottons with such beautiful prints, I just couldn't bear the beauty.  They moved upstairs to a less retail-friendly location, and seem to have faded away in the years since.  Best modern alternative?  Fabrics & Fabrics has some really awesome stuff...

So-Good Ribbons:  

Looks like this store has bid us adieu as well.  Best modern alternatives?  Mokuba (if you can ignore the price LEAP!) and Daytona Trimming.

Do you miss the district stores of yesteryear?  Come along on the Stroll Down Memory Lane Speakeasy!  Click the link for details!

Happy New Year! - The January 2 Speakeasy Tour

Since there are no Speakeasies planned for the near future (as I work on the uber-project, the Grandest Speakeasy EVER, scheduled for this spring), I want to share some details from yesterday's event.  After yesterday's trip,  I remain really creatively inspired, and excited to share some of the things we discovered along our journey yesterday!

And a big special THANK YOU to Cindy, who helped lead the group, and offered her always brilliant, friendly, expert advice and encouragement to the group! I truly adore her, and have known her forever...

It amazes me every time, but I am often as inspired by my tour participants as they are inspired by the fabulous things we see in the stores, and yesterday was truly no exception...

Exhibit A:

One of the tour participants was really jazzed by a photo of a very expensive "glove clutch" she had seen.  Inspired by the idea, but intimidated by what could be a complicated labor-intensive project, I thought about ... (I have tried desperately to make great gloves in the past) I stumbled upon these in an internet search (link to original below)...  I adore this bag!

Perrin Paris glove clutches

Note: If I were to use this idea as a springboard for my own, I would go to Leather, Suede, Skins for the leather, Botani or Pacific for the hardware and such, and Joann fabrics (online or in person) for what I have found to be the best stabilizing materials for the bags I make (The fusible interfacing used for lampshades, and plastic mesh - I fuse the interfacing to a stiff muslin to make the structural inner layer of my bags.)


Exhibit B:

Let's say you make quilts, as two of yesterday's participants do.  Where to go in the garment district certainly isn't obvious, but there are many places that have lovely, creative offerings for quilters.  Now, there are some obvious spots to visit; Mood and City Quilter among them, but I must say that Rosen and Chadick, Chic Fabrics and NY Elegant had some awesome cottons suitable for quilting, too!

Exhibit C:

You can find silk gazar, like the fabric used to create this Oscar de la Renta Gown  in rich colors at Fabrics & Fabrics

What if you love bold colors and textures?  One of our participants was such a delightful enthusiast of very bold oranges, purples and greens -- she found plush velvets and wonderful prints that were so exciting! There are some stores with gasp-worthy colors, panel prints, and textures right now.  Check the display window of NY Elegant, and you'll see what I mean!  Paron, Fabrics and Fabrics, and Rosen and Chadick all had delightful offerings in these categories as well!

Exhibit C:

And seriously, shop with a rolling suitcase.  Or you'll learn the hard way... That's how the pros do it... am I right???  And, when you get home, you say to anyone who has a problem with the amount of fabric you bought.... "You should have seen what the rest of them bought!!!!  FAR more than I did!!!!" (giggle...)

If you are longing to go fabric shopping or browsing, here are some must-sees for you right now:

• Check out the fabulous chunky cut & sew sweater knit at Paron Fabrics(immediately!)
• Look at the fabric panels on the long wall of Fabrics & Fabrics
• Check out the double-faced wool (green/charcoal) at Rosen & Chadick
• Check out the special panels hanging on the rack near the counter at NY Elegant
• Check put the great houndstooth wools at Chic Fabrics
• Check out the variety of unique zippers, pulls, buttons and other notions at Botani
• Check out the novelty button offerings and hot fix crystals at Joyce

Happy New Year, and enjoy your creative adventures, whatever they may be!

Where to Buy Petersham Ribbon in the Garment District...

*This is from an earlier post - Updating Meg's original post dated 1/18/11

Petersham is a hard-finished, closely woven, cross-rib fabric.  It is available in ribbon widths, and most commonly used for waist stays, facings and hat bands, among other creative uses. It is crisper than grosgrain, and gives structure and shape to areas of stress on garments and accessories. 

Rows and rows of petersham ribbon at Pacific Trimming

Example

Petersham ribbon, when used as a facing or support, is like a gift from the sewing gods! It kinda looks like regular grosgrain ribbon but its flexible picot edge allows you to shape it with an iron to curve and conform to your project, which grosgrain will not do.

Designers like Moschino, Tahari, MaxMara and Milly have used petersham ribbon as trim on their jackets and coats, and, of course it's perfect for no-waistband skirts and pants. If you make corsets, petersham can be of great use to you! 

One great source for petersham ribbon in NYC's Garment District is Pacific Trimming on W. 38th Street. They have tons of colors in several different widths, very affordably.

Update: Just a word of caution that there is no sign or label indicating "petersham" ribbon at Pacific. The staff may not be able to point you in the right direction, so you just have to know what to look for: the edges of petersham have little scalloped ridges, whereas regular grosgrain ribbon edges are completely straight. In many stores, they will not know what you are talking about if you ask for it by name.  Some stores will say they have it, but then offer something that isn't quite right - I have seen stores offer grosgrain as petersham, thinking the products are the same.

The idea of spats just thrills me.

My permanently out-of-sych fashion preferences lead me to believe that you will embrace this trend in about three years.  I'll just say it now, and you can store it for future use, okay?

For leather or alternative materials:

Leather, Suede, Skins (among others) or Mood or a host of other stores in the district...

For leather needles and appropriate thread: Manhattan Wardrobe supply among many others...

For leather cement: Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, Mood

For pattern paper or oaktag: Steinlauf & Stoller

Chalk for marking: Steinlauf & Stoller

Buttons: Buttonology, M&J or Pacific Trim

For covered buttons: (*clears throat and whispers... inaudibly)

For alternative closures, if you wanna get fancy: Star Snaps

For decorative flowers (leather and other kinds): Schmalberg Custom Fabric Flowers

Fashion Trims for edging, decorating, or lacing: Daytona

I'll be doing some for myself... Go ahead and hate them if you want... or love them like I do!!!  They're just for me, anyway!

The things you didn't know you were looking for...

Tearing through the garment district at breakneck speed the other day, I went on an inadvertent shopping spree.  I tend to visit the stores through the eyes of a traveler,  noticing small changes when stores rearrange, brighten their palettes, change their focus, etc. I touch things, I interact, I talk to owners and employees, and all of this opens the doors to wonderful discoveries. When I consider what my purchases from that day will (hopefully) yield, my shopping trip was actually an outrageous bargain of an excursion. When I think about how I deviated from my simple plan of just stopping into one store with a very focused mission (a plan I failed to achieve), my wallet cries a little, but I will survive!

Having said that, what I want to share with you, is that this adventure led me to a few stores where I found a variety of things I have either never noticed before, or simply didn't realize were available to be found.  

Pacific Trimming

Once inside, I felt the creative vibration. I walked to the back, peeked just to the right of the button area, just before the "Employees ONLY!" sign, and saw impeccably neat folded stacks of resilient, crisp, ribbed knit cuffs and edges.  No, not the tatty factory overrun pieces you've seen in other stores, offered from a tattered box in piles of dingy mini-ziplock bags... these, by contrast, are precisely the pieces you would actually want to finish the edges of your own sweaters, hats, soft pants and jackets.  These are the kind of pieces you can use to breathe new life into old things that need a structural rescue. New ideas abound.

Then... I saw bra cups attached to a band.  I didn't know you could actually buy what is best described as the front half of of strapless molded bra, categorized by cup size. Oh, the time that could save!

Unique closures.  If you can relax your brain enough to do it, look at all of the wild closures they have.  From things that look like suitcase locks, to padlocks, to things you push, squeeze or slide, there are amazing ways to close, hook, dangle, and connect things.  Full of ideas after seeing so many things in there.

Oh yeah... I had gone in for buttons, and forgot to get them.  Whoops.

Steinlauf & Stoler

Maybe they always had them, but I noticed mastectomy pads for sale in a bin above the thread. I have designed garments for people who wear mastectomy bras so many times, I forget that we are not limited to always designing around it, since we can build the pads into the actual garment, if needed.

Oh, and they had the buttons I needed. No problem.

Fashion Design books

The little touch knife Olfa tool they offer is outrageously inexpensive and just adorable.  I'm sure that will come in handy every now and then...

Bonded leather sheets in different weights.  The "hot dog" of leather products, really, bonded leather is a pressed pulp made from leather waste.  A professional sewing friend has long lamented the loss of "stay papers" sold in various weights to give structure to handbags, and these bonded leather sheets felt like a suitable, flexible, substitute.  She assured me that there are no "rules" for making handbags, so it is essential that you use your own ability to think like a sculptor/architect when looking for suitable support for the handbag's shape.  Another friend of hers had looked at art supply stores, trying matte board and heavy drawing paper for support in some areas. Always experimenting, this bonded leather product is next on my agenda.

Handbag cord.  Probably offered in other stores elsewhere in the district, I particularly liked the weight, shape, and feel of what this store had to offer, and will be excited to make some wrapped handles using this product.

So, all in all, a good haul.  Working steadily, and I have accomplished a great deal on my "Working Title" blouse.  The amount of hours this particular work has absorbed is just incredible, but it wouldn't be what it is becoming without it!

The right cut

I hand-draped and hand-sewed this dress for a client,  partially due to cutting fears!

I have long had a fear of large expanses of bias chiffon.  Generally, hearing the words, "...three layers of chiffon skirts" on a gown, would give me the chills. The cutting and stabilizing were nightmare processes I just didn't want to deal with.

I designed and made this organza bolero for a client a few years ago, and cut spiral bias pieces to make this happen. But again, my cutting fears made me cut this in a far less efficient, and trepidatious way...

My current freelance gig in a couture designer's workshop has taught me volumes about dealing with chiffon in particular, and I think this post will help those of you with slippery fabrics fears to conquer the beast!

What will affect your success:

The right cutting surface

Ergonomics is the study of people and their work. It combines engineering, physiology, and psychology to prevent injuries and make work more efficient. Ergonomics focuses on adapting the work, the tools, and the work station to fit the worker instead of requiring that the worker accommodate himself or herself to the equipment. This can take the form of adjusting work heights, modifying hand tools, adding material handling equipment, or a variety of other solutions.

-Sheree Gibson, Ergonomist and Engineer (research for the Wolff company, specifically)

Ideally, a surface that is flat, sturdy, about 6 to 8 feet long, and at least 58" wide would accommodate most garment projects.  The ideal height of the table depends on your height. Try making that happen in an NYC apartment... good luck! We're just talking about getting the ideal situation here. The designer has big industrial tables. In my own space, I use a banquet table from Staples.  Works just fine for me. You may be able to adjust the height of an existing table with bed risers from a home goods store, or you may choose to ignore me entirely, if space, budget or lifestyle don't permit.

Stabilizing your fabric for cutting success

No amount of skill will make up for not preparing to cut your fabric correctly.  Read this post from the Sewing Divas for tips on how to cut fabrics that won't hold still.

All I have to add to the procedure given at the link given above, is that the designer I'm currently working with uses a layer of brown paper to stabilize beneath the fabric, then fabric on top of that paper, carefully lined up against the edge, and then, a layer of sample paper on top (makes it easier to position pieces on correct grain, and you can kinda see through it), on top of which which the pattern would be placed, traced (if appropriate), pinned though all three layers at the edges only, and then cut.  Yes, cut... through chiffon and layers of paper. Using the good shears.

The right shears

If you sew, you probably have  a dedicated pair of shears you use for fabric. Shears (vs. scissors) have a larger handle on one side to accommodate a couple of fingers, so that you may place your thumb on top and several  fingers in the bottom.  The handles are often attached with an adjustable screw for precise cutting.

Many of us who sew in our own homes or small studios cringe at the thought of our precious fabric shears ever being used to cut anything but fabric.  "They'll be ruined!" A bit of a sewing myth, this is both kinda, sorta true, and uhhhh... not really true.  Cutting paper with your fabric shears will not ruin them; it will make you need sharpening sooner.  You'd like to keep your shears specific for their designated task, which is to cut fabric. I know many sewers don't get their shears sharpened often, if at all, really.  The choice to do so is based on the quality of your shears, how much you care, the types of fabric you cut, and the amount of cutting you do.  If yours need sharpening, it is entirely affordable.  Drop them off at Steinlauf and Stoller (that's where I go) or Wesphfal (who offer sharpening services for a variety of industries), and pick them up when they're ready (depends on workload at the shop - could be hours, next day, or could be a few days), and it will only cost you a few bucks, which is totally worth it.  Sometimes shears need more than just sharpening.  Cleaning and re-edging are services provided by some manufacturers, and rust or a loose screw could also be problems you need to solve. It is good to know what the problem is before deciding on what service(s) you will require.

I know some of you likely never or very rarely sharpen your shears.  In that case, for you... "Stay away from paper!".

There are plenty of nice dressmaking shears, and there are lots of great industrial shears.  You need the right tools for the task and for the environment in which you will use them.  They can be quite pricey, compared to the least expensive brands, but they also make great gifts.  ( Tip: Start hinting now for your next gift receiving occassion...) If you care enough, they are truly worth the investment.  Feel free to ignore me if you're laying out your fabric on your bed or carpeted floor, though.  See what I'm saying? The quality of the cutting is entirely dependent upon the hands operating them and the environment in which they are being used. A great deal of study has gone into the ergonomics of cutting tools. One of the biggest reasons for this, has been the rapid increase in repetitive stress injuries to workers, caused by the repetition of a motion or exertion over time. As an occasional or part-time sewing professional, artist, or hobbyist, you may not need/want to put excessive thought into your tools, but if you have seen the walls of Wolff, Kai, Wiss, Gingher and other branded industrial shears in some of the garment center stores and wonder what all the fuss is about, here's your answer:

Better tools give you better results when cutting.  The bent-handled shears allow you to cut more precisely and get the proper angle against the table, the longer blades require fewer repetitive movements, the thin, sharp tips allow you to get into tight corners and angles, and the ergonomically designed handles allow you to grip the scissors in the most ideal position for doing so.  There are also left-handed scissors for the southpaws among us.  Better quality shears have sharper blades, generally made of high grade stainless steel, and are specifically designed to stay sharper longer.

After you've bought them, you've also gotta pay attention to where and how you keep your shears.  Mine are suspended on pegs above my work table, but I do love a good holster attached to a wall or table somewhere, too. Something sorta cowgirl about it, I suppose? Above all, don't drop them, and don't let your kids or well-intentioned others use them.  For that matter, don't let evil-intentioned people use them either. Yes, I know you love them (the kids and others, not the shears), but really, some things are just off-limits.

Where can you buy great shears?  Archer, Pacific Trimming, Steinlauf & Stoller, Panda, or online... I'm sure there are more places.

By the Way...

When you're done cutting, you're not done.  If you've cut bias pieces, baste them as they are meant to be assembled, and let them hang overnight.  You'll have to be the judge of what is appropriate for the garment you're making, but just "sewing it up" without doing this is likely to be a very bad idea.

The Scoop on the April 12 Speakeasy tour...

It rained... but it didn't dampen our spirits!  We started off easy, going into a store I selected for its unique offerings (Butterfly Fabrics), and continued on to a place where I think everyone temporarily LOST THEIR MINDS...

That place was Elliott Berman, with lots of new fabrics, where we found things so beautiful, they almost left us breathless. Man oh man, was there a matelasse that made every one of us gasp...

At Chic, we found lots of fun things... at unbelievable prices.  And yes, I do mean unbelievable...

At Rosen & Chadick, the group was pretty tired after so much stimulation, but we saw much loveliness.

At Metro Textiles, our buddy Kashi had piles and piles of fabrics to behold, some of which I literally had to peel myself away from!

At Pacific Trimming, we found all sorts of lovely buttons, Riri zippers, accessiories, and tools.  I was personally inspired by the things I saw that I have NO IDEA what to do with!  It really opens you up to creative solutions!

After a lovely lunch, the group was gently led into the wonderland that is Fabrics & Fabrics.  Pretty sure that left everyone speechless.  By the way, you have seen their new website, haven't you?

The next tour is May 24. This tour offers a special discounted "Bring a friend" rate!

Please note that there are some new rules for future tours:

Regarding cancellations:

If you have paid and wish to cancel 7 days or more before date - 100% refund

Fewer than 7 days - 50% refund

If you don't come on the scheduled date or cancel within 24 hours or less - you will forfeit your refund, but can switch reservation to a future tour date.

If I cancel a tour for reasons not related to weather, acts of God or other emergencies, you are entitled to your choice of a full refund, or a future tour.

Come along on a tour!  We have lots of fun!

Note: If you were on this tour, there is only one of you for whom I can't find contact details for the lunch credit I promised you.  (You are one of my NY'ers that day) If you are reading this, please get in touch!

Sequins and the holidays...

If you're anything like me, you have a healthy respect for sequins, and a genuine love for them, but SHUDDER at the thought of trying to cut them away on your seam allowances, dig them out of the crevices of your machine, manipulate them to fit your design and force them to lay the way they were intended. What a pain in the nether region...

Sequins, however, do have one absolutely stellar advantage: they make anything ordinary look festive.  They make you feel like a million bucks.  Here are some alternative thoughts on how to use sequins for your holiday finery. The following project was for a client of mine.

These are fabulous metallic sequins attached  to a mesh from B&J Fabrics.

This fabric is wonderful, but the application of those sequins looks so random, how do I navigate the seams efficiently with a sewing machine?

My solution?  You don't.  You pull out a hand sewing needle and thread, and go for it! (I did line this top with china silk, by the way, using my client's flesh tone.)

Minimal seams make it easier.

Why not show a little skin in the back, huh?

Okay, so you can also add sequin trim to a garment, or you can get hot-fix sequins you can iron on, which I imagine, can be problematic, so experiment a bit before committing to this.  For the truly committed, you can sew on your own sequins individually, but you'd also be amazed at how beautiful a delicately interspersed sequin embellishment with a Swarovski crystal center can be on even the very simplest silk tank! Add them to your shoes, you bag, your hair accessory, your hat... whatever!

From low priced to high end, there are LOTS and LOTS to choose from.  I'm feeling like an infomercial here. (Note: The above example is a high-end one.)

So where you can you find fun sequins?

Loose: M&J Trimming, Pacific Trimming, Daytona Trimming, Joyce

Trims: Joyce, M&J Trimming, Mood

Fabrics: B&J, Mood, Fabrics & Fabrics

So, it actually isn't too late to get started.  Don't be afraid to add a little sparkle to your holidays this year!