Fashion Unraveled Symposium... A mountain of things I haven't told you... second post

In October of 2018 I wrote this...

She started quietly, and very slowly, describing her visit to a seemingly completely normal place, and being directed towards a small, simple, and quite unremarkable white dresser.  Inside its drawers, she explained, long protected from dust and light, were the impeccably folded clothing items which had belonged to, and were sewn by Frida Kalho.

Frida Kalho (photo from Wikipedia - click link to see details)

Michelle McVicker presented "The Traces of Use, A Case Study of Appearances Can be Deceiving: The Dresses of Frida Kalho and the Potentiality of Visibly Worn Dress" See more about this here...

I was in.  Every word she spoke was fascinating to me, as she explained how signs of use and wear give garments a history, that pristine, unworn, or excessively "restored" garments cannot convey.  She talked about the word "patina", a concept usually reserved for durable antique items, but rarely used for signs of wear on clothing.

Now, in September of 2020, while I am no Frida Kahlo, I get it.

Cancer hit me like a cannonball.  Chemo, chemo-radiation, surgery, recovery... body changes.

I discovered a great use of my own skill.  Sewing for my own body changes and challenges.  Asymmetry, new needs...

I got this.

Why you should be a dressmaker... or at least, make/change some stuff... (To be followed by Why you should NOT be a dressmaker)

Repost: originally written 10/14/15

Previous (related) post: Why you should NOT create/design your own projects

Yes, you should be a dressmaker/custom sewing professional.  Or maybe not. Seriously. Are you considering it?

Here are some things I've made and redesigned over the years...

A grand entrance

The skirt zips off for the reception dance!

A mother's wedding gown combined with a Sri Lankan sari to make an American/Sri Lankan love story.

Bought at auction, 1890's dress made fun for the bride!

A winter reception dress for a classy bride

Tidy work pants for a minus-size client.

A Valentine's day duvet and pillow set...

Well, for one thing... there is a frightening shortage of creativity and fun in the affordable ready-to-wear and other markets, and far less variety when it comes to costumes, home dec, outerwear, and party-wear.

So why should you do this kind of work?

"You'll be able to earn money."

I may be lying a bit here.  You probably won't earn much, and your income will be BOTH unreliable and unpredictable (fun!), but you can create lots of great things for people who need/want them, and you can be paid for doing it.  How will they find you?  You can list yourself on a site like mine, or on a free site, like Mood, or post ads in your local area for your target market.

"You'll be able to stretch creatively."

You can expand beyond the ready-to-wear items offered in stores, within the limits of your skill level. Bias, cross, or straight grain?  Your choice.  Your design! Your colors! Any size! Will you fail?  Will things go wrong?  Yes!  (Unfortunately.)  But things will also go beautifully at other times.  If it doesn't, you'll know when to stop, for sure.

"You'll have complete control."

Ha!  No you won't.  The client tells you what she/he likes.  But you can get as creative as the client will allow, and it is a fabulous feeling to truly please someone with something fantastic!  It is always at least a bit of a gamble, but if you can keep an eye on quality, technique and execution, you really stand a chance of doing some great work.

"You can think outside of the box."

This is the greatest part of all.  Some of the most fun I've had has been doing things like making convertible wedding dresses (zipping off lower tiers of a skirt for dancing, combining cultures), making clothing suitable for physical challenges and disabilities, answering all kinds of unusual requests - it really can be a joyful experience, should you choose to give it a whirl!

Next post on related topics:  Why you should NOT be a dressmaker (will be posted in the near future)

Why you should NOT be a dressmaker... EVER... (which circles back to... Why you should hire a dressmaker)

As I write this, my fingertips are sensitive and raw from hours of delicate and sculptural hand sewing.  I had to start my day with stretches to relieve my shoulders, arms and hips from the aches brought on by all of my sewing contortions. Following days of limited sleep and multiple projects, I met with a client yesterday morning for whom I recently completed a dress, and she squealed "I love it!" (Thank God, because all she would need to feel is that she hates it, for my entire mood to change for a WEEK...) 

It need s only a hem now (by hand... I'll show you why) and it will be DONE.  Whew.

Here's why the hem must be done by hand.  The machine just won't navigate it gracefully, and no opaque edging I've considered is graceful or weighty enough to make it "float" when she walks.

I had lunch with a close friend yesterday after finishing up with my client, and when I showed her the dress, she gasped.  That was the biggest compliment I could ever get, because she's seen me make all sorts of things for a few decades now, but the gasp she emitted was completely involuntary, then silence, and then her eyes widened, and she whispered, "You made that?"

The essence of the dress...

Mostly "sculpted" by hand more than sewn by machine.

So, yeah, that's right... I was gonna tell you why you should NOT be a dressmaker.  Okay... Here's why - 

No, wait...

Back when I was feeling witty, annoyed, and snarky maybe a week or two ago, I was distracted by this brilliant tidbit from one of my favorite creatives, Wim Wenders (feel free to expand this advice to include sewing professionals):

Here's the problem with the way I was feeling when I wrote the posts preceding this one.  I was so clear on why someone should avoid this profession at all costs, and now, in a period where I am having a great time and getting great results, I can't remember why I thought I could write some humorous take on why you should NEVER become a dressmaker.  So, in a nutshell, by all means, if you love it, do it.  And don't let anyone talk you out of it.  

Keep in mind, though, that business slowdowns, problems, missteps, and unpredictable income are impossible to avoid.  Still in?  Good. 

Carry on...

If you are a dressmaker, who wishes to advertise your business on the www.findadressmaker.com site, click here for specific information.

If you are considering dressmaking as a pursuit, and wish to learn more, click here to learn about a great organization.

If you are an established dressmaker, looking to increase your professional credentials, click here to learn more about certification.

If you are looking to commission a dressmaker for a project, click here for information.

Note, I do have professional affiliations with all of the above programs, so i am absolutely biased, and will state that proudly here.

Previous post on related topics in this category: Why you should create/design your own projects which all circles back to Why You Should Hire a Dressmaker

Things to inspire... things to share...

To inspire:

I think this movie may be a game-changer for the public interest in dressmaking.  Remember "Titanic" and the garment fantasies it inspired?  This movie, which gives 40 year-old Kate Winslet a 25 year-old love interest (Hemsworth) may do the trick.  No official US release date yet... but we'll be waiting!

And when you see it, I suggest you dress for the occasion! The description alone will kill ya...

In the 1950s, Myrtle "Tilly" Dunnage returns to her hometown, an Australian country town named Dungatar, to take care of her ill mother, Molly, from which she was sent away at the age of ten because of false accusations of murder. Tilly, an expert dressmaker trained by Madeleine Vionnet in Paris, transforms the locals with her couture creations and in the process, exacts revenge on the people who wrongly accused her of murder all those years ago.

Who can help you get the dreamy fabrics and tools this film will inspire you to use? Well, in the garment district, there are many, but the best of the best map will guide you in the right direction.

Also to inspire:

Here's a great article on dressing your body... or anyone else's for that matter.  It will inspire you, and make you feel the value of your work as a garment professional, hobbyist, or artist, wherever that lands you!

To share:

Now, food for thought... what kinds of things can become fabrics?  Should they be making fabric using discarded animal parts?  Hmmmm... If not, why not?  Talk amongst yourselves, people.

A quote from the article linked above:

...one kilogram of gelatin can yield one kilogram of wool. That 1:1 trash-to-apparel ratio puts the process on par with a Nike project that converts plastic bottles into a polyester thread used for soccer uniforms. Unlike Nike, though, Stark and his team will need to find a manufacturing partner who can help develop infrastructure to produce the new fibers at scale. Because the foodstuff is derived from animal by-products, and gets made in bulk, it’s a more cost-efficient material than the merino sheared from sheep one at a time. At present, though, the European companies who manufacture gelatin do so only for niche products like gel capsules and Jell-O.

Also to share:

Are you looking for sewing classes in New York City?  Here's a site with a list of options...


Now, take a deep breath, have a good stretch, and do something meaningful.  See you later!