A photo essay... the highlights of a garment district trip or two... or three, maybe?

There's more to these stories.  This is what the garment district looked like a few months ago (August). Go to my Insta for more...

 

Riding in an EMPTY subway car

Beautiful flower from Schmalberg

Gotta use some bleach to make these work...

Fabric pleated

On pleating...

*12/11/17

Latest update: A podcast from the man who "wrote the book" on pleating! https://materialisyourbusiness.com/2017/12/035-george-kalajian-of-toms-sons-pleating-writing-the-book-on-pleating/

Re-posting (from 4/23/14... for the love of pleating...)  Note: I still wear the skirt.

I admit to having a healthy dose of chiffonophobia.  You know, large expanses of chiffon move freely when you try to cut them, bias can be an amorphous nightmare, so needle and thread choice, correct cutting, and careful sewing are paramount to success...

I also find it irresistible.

On this project, with some trepidation, I headed into unfamiliar territory.  I knew I wanted to make a sunburst pleated skirt, and I knew who would do the pleating for me, but I had NO IDEA how to plan and cut it.  Because the skirt pattern is a sophisticated circle,  I did not know how to get it to work for the skirt I wanted to make.

I had already scored some fabulous James-Bond-esque golden/black chiffon from Kashi at Metro Textiles, and embarked on the dream.  This is a project you cannot engineer on your own; you need a permanent pleating process to make this work, and I knew just who to call. 

So, I sat down with George of International Pleating.  To do what I did here, you do not need an appointment.  Nope.  All you need is this link, and you can cut it yourself, send or physically take the fabric to International Pleating, and have it pleated.

The wonderful team at International Pleating gave such perfect instructions (with a printable pattern), that this was just as easy as pie to do.  I know, because I've done it.

Oh... and the pattern is FREE.  Yes, I said FREE.

Pleated version, laying beneath the original (unpleated) chiffon.

And the end result is why I couldn't resist the step-by-step instructions for a sunburst pleated bias skirt, provided by International Pleating.

What did I do?

Step 1: I read the instructions.  Note the fabric recommendations, length of skirt, and waist sizes given. You can request help from International Pleating if you need to make something outside of the size/length range provided. The instructions I used can be found here.

Step 2: I printed and assembled the pattern.  Using an ordinary printer. No special equipment or paper required.  The pattern can be found here.

Step 3: I followed the cutting instructions.  Pay attention here - follow the instructions exactly as they are written, for the best possible results.

Pleated chiffon before sewing

Step 4:  I gave it to International Pleating to pleat the fabric.  This is an EXTREMELY affordable service, by the way. $14 per panel for pleating.

I cut my waist out after getting the fabric pleated (I thought I could hang the bias more easily this way) , but if you are at all uncomfortable with properly cutting your waist after the pleating is done, doing it first gives you better accuracy.

Step 5: I followed the rest of the written instructions to complete the skirt.

Step 6: I let the bias hang...


While letting the bias hang, I worried about a "twist" I was worried I couldn't fix at the side seam.

But then I let it hang... and hang...

and hang...

And, because of my busy schedule, it hung longer than I planned, and the side seam "twist" self-resolved!

Awaiting full bias "drooping"!

Step 7: I hemmed the skirt.

A bit of experimentation led me to a rolled hem done with a fine zigzag stitch.  Done here on a test piece on the straight grain,  it gives the hem a bit of a wiry feel, that I wanted to use on this bias hem to give the skirt some energy!  

Step 8: I fell in love with the "dancey" quality of the hem method I chose!

I will wear it over a fitted black stretchy mini-tank dress, that will create my "slip" beneath the skirt. 

Now... Shall we dance?

Rectangles...

I never noticed how I keep returning to rectangles until recently.  I love making things so simple that only 1-3 rectangles are required, and are so simple to sew, that it even becomes hard to explain how it was done.  I think these things are specific to my taste, but I love how duplicable they are, because of their simplicity.  How well it turns out is only a measure of how "right" a fabric choice was made...

Examples of same garments that were nothing buy rectangles are below:

The grommet laced shoulder...

The ever-changing cradle bag

A panel print just the right size to become a shirt

Rectangular scarf that became a vest by folding to the middle (back neck), and tying a knot

Beautiful pleats by International pleating, suspended from two rectangles of lace

A rectangle cotton knit t-shirt dress, with a vertical "scarf"

So, there were quite a few other photos I was about to share, and then stopped short, thinking, "Oh yeah, it STARTED out as a/some rectangle(s), but then I decided to..."

So... yes...  I often start with rectangles, and end up... well... wherever that sends me.

Whew! Spilling the details on the "Speakeasy" tour...

Reposting (from 9/29/12) - for those of you who don't know what the Speakeasy idea is/was, and what I would love to duplicate, if there is enough interest!

Now that the tour is over, and I've had a good sleep, lemme tell you all about it! This was the first Speakeasy tour I've done, and since no two will be exactly the same, I can dish here without spoiling it for those who will come in the future. Our tour was scheduled to meet at 10 AM at the "Big Button", and I arrived quite early. The rain was TORRENTIAL when I got there, so I ducked beneath a shelter for a time, and reemerged when the rain lightened to a steady drizzle. Cindy (my great tour guide partner) and I met the participants as they arrived, just when the sky ABSOLUTELY OPENED UP.

I'm not sure when I've seen it rain so hard.

I briefly wondered if one could build an ark of canvas and boning, since I do know where to get that...

Thankfully, we were all dressed for the occasion, and they were all really good sports about the relentless downpour. We quickly scrambled off to our first destinations.

Because these were smaller stores, Cindy took half of the group to C&J Textiles, while I took the other half to Metro Textiles. Cindy's part of the group absolutely RAVAGED the $6 sale rack. Yes, I said $6. Really, I did say $6. Why do you keep asking me that? (That's why I call it a "Speakeasy"... see?) And good luck going there now. They practically cleaned it out. No, I'm not kidding. When its gone, its gone, until they restock it. You would have had to see it with your own eyes. At Metro, Kashi was, as always, an incredibly gracious host, whose selection is just overwhelming. While there, a serendipitous visit from George of International Pleating, holding THE MOST MAGICAL pleated fabric you ever did see, allowed me the opportunity to introduce him to my part of the group. Truly, the way that pleats can give a new personality to such a tame and classic print... We couldn't even imagine what it must have looked like before pleating until Kashi showed it to us in its original state.

Really, you hold up its pleated version, and you dance with it. Just because you have to.

So, when you're in Kashi's place, you just keep looking at his vast selection of fabrics until things jump out at you. I can be easily distracted by shopping for myself, so I promised myself I wouldn't buy a SINGLE thing. However, I do now have a list in my head that I will need to satisfy shortly. Thanks, alot, Kashi... Kashi has three fabrics I MUST have, and will go to pick up this week. Mostly because I can barely sleep without them. That's just true. On another note, you will feel the need to call the place "Kashi's" instead of Metro Textiles after going there. That's just what happens.

Okay, so then I tried to minimize my excitement as the entire group met up at Fabrics and Fabrics (formerly Lace Star). I just wanted to let them get off the elevator, and GASP as it unfolded before them. I'm not even sure why I mention the name Lace Star when I talk about them now, since this version of that store BLOWS what was known as Lace Star away. This place is VAST, and I can assure you, the sale racks will amaze you. But bigger than that, there are AISLES and AISLES of brocades (and plenty of other things, too) in lots and lots of colors. Fabric-selling industry veterans have told me that a wide variety of brocades are amazingly hard to find. They found them, somehow. The antique French laces, the wild, unusual fabrics...

As I walked around, I kept hearing purrs, shouts and "Come look at this!" from corners and aisles all around this store. And the layout of this store is absolutely stellar. The organization and labeling of goods is just so perfect, I don't think it could be improved upon. I am so serious about that. And it just keeps going, and going, and going! Rahman is just a great, welcoming personality, and I know there are other staff members, but I just gravitate to him specifically, because he is always first to smile!

Understandably, people were reluctant to get things shipped home rather than carry them, because it takes away from their fabric budget (and can be pricey, especially for our Hawaiian!), but arms were getting weary!

From there, we moved on to Rosen & Chadick. David, Ellen and the assistants were wonderfully helpful, and the group was astounded by the quality of the goods they carry. The beautiful heavenly beaded net fabric and velvet combo bought by one member of our group nearly brought tears to my eyes. The printed cottons are also just TO DIE for. The silks, oh, and the silk tie fabrics are just glorious! The cotton twills for pants, the UPSTAIRS... oh yes, there's an upstairs... you mean you didn't know? "Speakeasy"... see?

And here's the deal... you see stuff there you won't find in other stores. The pinwale corduroys in particular are so beautiful, and inspire ideas in so many directions. The layout and lighting are awesome, and the wonderful, warm personalities of David and Ellen are even awesomer... yes, that's a word...

So, from there, we took a quick little subway ride to 28th Street on the 1 train, where I discovered that I could not swipe a whole pile of people with a pay-per-ride fare card... and seriously MTA, why not???? After a few people, the machine tells you that you have exceeded your "transfer limit". Why? Someone explain to me what transfers have to do with this? And the absence of subway personnel makes it especially frustrating. Random venting.  I digress.

So, I just bought more fares, and we moved on. No big deal.

Anyway, our next stop was Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, which offers more stuff than you ever knew you needed. We discussed the joys of waxed hand sewing thread, various glues and adhesives, types of elastic, all sorts of bust fixes and fitting solutions, garment shields, shoe concerns, fabric care supplies, and just soooo much more.

That place was a ball, and everyone was about to keel over, so we all rested out tootsies (and other parts) for lunch. It all worked out fine, but for the next trip, I will make sure to plan lunch better! We all ate well, though! Over lunch, we answered all of the "where can I find" questions they had for us, and got feedback on their favorite stores. Surprisingly enough, the favorites were pretty evenly spread out among the group! Everyone said they had an awesome time, and they were really happy they came! I am so glad!

After the tour, I did a follow up with a few of the store owners, and they had some great feedback for us, too! One of the major points I stress on this tour is that this is meant to be a MUTUALLY beneficial trip.  You get access to gorgeous and fun stuff, discounts, bargains, and relationships I already have with vendors.  They get business from people who probably don't otherwise even know they exist.

The folks at Rosen and Chadick thought the groups was really nice, fun, and interesting to talk to! They were pretty amazed at how far some were willing to travel to come on the tour, and so was I!

Side note: I had NO idea you could drive from elsewhere, park your RV at the marina, and save yourself a hotel bill! Makes coming here crazy affordable!

Kashi really enjoyed the group as well, and was happy to have been able to show them fabrics they found exciting! He has such great prints! 

C&J can really look intimidating, but don't be intimidated. Yes, there is a receptionist, but don't feel put off by the feeling of being asked to state your business. They just wanna help you find what you need... and of course, they want your business!

Manhattan Wardrobe Supply is better explored than explained. Also nice people, in a very businesslike environment.

My request to all of you:

After reading this post, when shopping in the Garment District, make sure to tell anyone who will listen, that you came because you saw the business mentioned on the blog. I can't guarantee that it will always help you at the register, if I'm not there with you... but sometimes it will!

In a nutshell,  conversation flowed, I am really happy that the blog is entertaining for so many, and was happy to meet those who hadn't really followed the blog, but were just excited for the real-life opportunity to go on the guided trip! I was especially excited to have learned so much from those who came on the trip, too!

Oh... and... sorry for no pictures... I was having too much fun to think about photo ops! And vain truth be told, I got drenched, and wasn't much of a fashion plate after the rain! Can you say "hot mess"?

Where to find coutil in the garment district

** Reposting (From hundreds (600) of posts, it is silly never to repost, right?)

We get stuck on names and labels for things. Armed with sewing books, dictionaries and lexicons, we scour the district, searching every store for the thing we've been told we need...

Coutil (or Coutille) is woven cloth created specifically for making corsets.^] It is woven tightly to inhibit penetration of the corset's bones and resist stretching. Coutil has a high cotton content. Cotton has good dimensional stability, or a resistance to stretching, which makes it a good choice for such a stressed garment. Coutil may be made to be plain (similar to 100% cotton facing), satin, or brocade. It is common for coutil to have a herringbone texture, or a similar woven texture.

- from Wikipedia

Order coutil via mail from Richard the Thread or Farthingales

Shopper:

"Do you have any coutil for sale?"

Fabric store employee (annoyed):

"Cou- wha?"

Coutil, when sold specifically by name, is a firmly woven cotton with a herringbone weave, used for foundation garments.  

That's why no one knows what you are talking about.  

The fabric is specifically designed for use in corset-making. Can't find it? You'll have a hard time finding a good substitute, although some poeple use duck or twill when they only want to mimic the look of a corset, and not necessarily rely on its functional role in a properly made corset. Word on the street is that it has no equal. It is strong, it breathes, and not many other fabrics will serve as a suitable substitute.

So, where do you find coutil in the garment district?  In my experience so far, you don't!  Order online from Farthingales or Richard the Thread, but get the rest of your supplies right here in NYC.

Now, once you've got the  right supplies to make your garment function as it should, get as fancy as you like with supplies to make it beautiful from some of our favorite garment district haunts:  

• B& J Fabrics
• Fabrics & Fabrics for beautiful laces and brocades
• Dersh Feather
• Botani
• International pleating for beautiful fabric manipulation
• Schmalberg Flowers for wonderful fabric ornamentation

Fabric has no expiration date...

***Note: This post is particularly funny, as I had rescheduled it for a time when I just knew it would have been turned into something great... and, as of today, it still hasn't! (further proving my point?)

And thank God it doesn't...

Heaven knows I'd be swimming in a sea of "expired" fabric by now, if that were true.

But... let's say you bought some silk fabric years ago, that you just loved, but never fully committed to a project? Well, you take this beautiful, irregularly striped fabric, and hand it over to International Pleating, to make it magical.

Tight, mushroom pleating takes those stripes to different textural magic (below)... but, creatively paired with its unpleated version (above), 

 it becomes...

Stay tuned...

International Pleating and... The Super Bowl?

Edit: Spoiler alert - International Pleating pleated the dress fabric.

Get inspired to make your own billowy "Marilyn" moment!

If you don't know International Pleating, visit their website and here to learn more.

Is imitation the sincerest form...? (A pleating story, primarily)

This is an older story, but now, we are approaching appropriate weather for my creation, so I submit it to you, dear readers.

Once upon a time, I fell in love with the dress pictured above, and asked the folks at International Pleating if they could pleat some fabric for me to execute my own dress, inspired by this design. Click the link for the beautiful story of this historic family business.  Click this link, and this one, to see some work they have done for me, personally. This time, I wanted to do EXACTLY the white dress pictured above.  I was sure of it. That was actually more than a year ago... but I haven't reported on this project until now.

Back then, I went searching for fabric to make EXACTLY that dress in my own color choice, and found this combo - both purchased from Metro Textiles:

So, International Pleating pleated the brown silk on the cross-grain, turning it into something so texturally beautiful and graceful, I was almost afraid to cut into it. It started to whisper to me that it wanted to be something else.

Pleated charmeuse fabric, after sitting, untouched and rolled for a few months...

I steamed it a bit to get the little "kinks" out, and the fabric obeyed beautifully. I was ready to cut.

And cut it, I did.  

On the dress form, I shaped the lace portion of the dress differently, and created the beginnings of something that looked lovely on a dress form, but pretty awful on me. Note: the above dress design REALLY exaggerates a large bosom, and kinda makes you look like a kid.  Patent leather tap shoes and an oversized lollipop would complete the Shirley Temple look it gave me.  Basically, I wouldn't suggest it, unless that's what you're going for...

So, after a few other permutations, sighing, pacing, thinking, putting it away and taking out, etc., I sculpted a patternless top that I probably manipulated several hundred times in my head, on the dress form, and on my own body before it sang to me.

And sing to me, it did.

From the back, which is nearly identical to the front...

My husband loves the deep brown color, as do I... it works well on brown skin. The horizontal back seam was subsequently flattened by being very narrowly serged and pressed upward to the lace side, so it has a bit of a "shadow" at the edge of the seam, which is fine, in my opinion.  The top has lace extends beyond the shoulder, and curves at the at the cap to create a graceful bit of a sleeve. The top hangs to the hipline, and is extremely lightweight.  *Can only be worn with a strapless bra beneath.

So did I copy the dress?  No, I made a blouse.  I just kept the lace shouldered/pleats below inspiration.

Funny that I should EVER want to copy anything exactly, with all the possibilities that exist out there in the world.  After all, what would the point be, really? We've all read about Target copying that boring  t-shirt, when there is simply an unfathomable number of ways to decorate the blank canvas of a T-shirt! Why bother, Target?

On the process:

Because I appreciate the beauty of the pleating so much, I didn't want to interfere with, or complicate, the design.  The blouse is simply two rectangles for the body, and two rectangles for the neckline/sleeve.  Important to know: how to sew seams in pleated fabric so the seams are invisible in the texture of the pleating, and how to hem pleated fabric, if desired.  You can hem fabric before pleating, or use the selvedge edge, or hem the fabric yourself, and appreciate the "lettuce" effect it causes.  International Pleating will walk you through these considerations.  

Is this affordable?

Yes.  In fact, astoundingly so, in my opinion.

On Being original:

Is imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, or is using the art of others as inspiration an even more sincere form? When tempted to copy something you've seen exactly, (which usually comes with some inexplicable feeling of disappointment, somehow) it may be good to question whether you just too scared to leap into your own imagination.  These are some thoughts to ponder on your creative journey...


Side notes:

And when it comes to artistic pursuits, is anyone noticing the rush of sound-alike music playing everywhere lately?

Pharrell Blurred Lines Controversy

Usher She Came to Give it to You vs. Just be Good to Me by the SOS Band

Ed Sheeran Thinking Out Loud vs. Marvin Gaye Let's Get it On

Sam Smith's Stay with Me vs. Tome Petty's Won't Back Down

When it comes to the Garment District specifically, though...

Wanna take a tour?  Click the link to see dates and options.

Short on time in the district? Want a shorter, lower priced trip? Click here for another option.

Wanna go shopping for free? MPB Day  Peter of Male Pattern Boldness always hosts great  shopping parties!

Need more garment district services? There are many...

NY Embroidery Studio
First2Print
Star Snaps
Quick Fusing
Botani
Jonathan Embroidery
Steinlauf & Stoller
Westpfal (scissor sharpening)
City Sewing

So no, don't imitate anything exactly.  Do your own version of what you do, using whatever makes your interpretation special!  There are so many ways to do things, taking details to twist and turn and change, and it is great to make your own statement, whether the the people you encounter "appreciate" your version or not!

As always, there is just so much more to say... and I'll share more later!

Garment District History (and my own heartbeat)

The Garment District in NYC is a place that makes me want to look around and sigh...  I love the old stories, the connections, and the history. I really have an insatiable love for what goes on here, and the way that the various businesses support, nurture, and inspire one another. 



 The importance of proximity, and how it fuels creativity is so important and well expressed in this video (above).

If you appreciate the history and personal connections as much as I do, I invite you to read the posts linked below, about businesses who have honed their craft over time, and really know their stuff!

Fabric flowers for embellishments (think Sarah Jessica Parker), accessories (think Chanel) and home decor. 

A beautiful pleating company, with a history and commitment level that will truly astound you.

A pajama manufacturer, whose story and insight on the current state of garment production will get your wheels turning.

"It's all cyclical"

The history of fashion tells me that everything old comes around again.  If that is so, I can't wait for these fashions to come back!  This weekend celebrated the annual Jazz Age Festival at Governors Island, here in New York City.

For privacy and permission's sake, I didn't include any close-ups of party-goers, but added enough pics here to give you an idea! There were dancers and food, live music, and lots of fun stuff that isn't shown here... Some representative shots from the event:

The pittoresque view of lower Manhattan from Governors Island

Revelers ending their day on the island

Ending the day - casual or glammed-up, it was fun for all!

Not everyone wanted to wear costumes, but there were lots of well-dressed men in the crowd, too!

So, let's say you want to participate next year, or you just dig a 20's vibe...  Here are some of the best places to find your supplies and services:

Lovely, lightweight silks in gorgeous colors: C&J Textiles
Beautiful, bold printed silks: Metro Textile, Fabrics & Fabrics
Feathers for trims, adornments and accessories: Dersh Feather
Beads and beaded embellishments: Joyce Trimmings
Other fun trims: Daytona, M&J Trimming
Hats: Hatcessory
Lace: Fabrics & Fabrics (Which is formerly Lace Star, ya know)
Hearty menswear fabrics and fabrics for ties: Rosen & Chadick
Get georgette fabric pleated by International Pleating for your skirts and dresses!

Such a fun place to go, and such a creative inspiration for all involved.

International Pleating

A while back, I saw a Downy commercial featuring Amy Sedaris in an amazingly cute dress (below).

This dress is a springboard for an idea that I would love to do in polka dots. Actually, her dress looks a lot like this one from Talbots, but more ALIVE, in my opinion, and right for her shape specifically.

I've long been intrigued by what polka dots, stripes, and patterns do when pleated, and the way the pleats just make fabrics dance with the wearer's movement. I can see so many projects in my head, but never knew how to execute them.

I knew that there were some companies in the garment district who would pleat fabric, but I didn't know how to approach them, if there were minimums, how to identify what fabrics would work well for pleating, etc. Frankly, the thought of making anything by hand with an excessive number of pleats terrifies me, and the ironing alone would probably kill me, so I would need pleated fabric before considering ANYTHING elaborate. (Remind me to tell you of my Great Pleating Disaster of 1990 sometime.)

Naively, I thought that one could simply buy pleated fabric and manipulate it to work with a pattern, OR give a length of fabric to a pleating company, and then cut it into the desired pieces and construct a garment. But... waitaminnit... I hadn't actually thought it through. Had I really thought about it, it would have been obvious that more thought has to go into these things. If you have a length of fabric pleated, your cutting is limited to straight lines, unless you interrupt the pleats by sewing them into seams. Awkward. Messy. Will end up an eternally unfinished project or unrealized artistic vision.

And this, my friends, is why you need to know about International Pleating. And to fully understand how enlightening my visit at this company was, you need to meet George Kalajian. I will do my best to introduce him to you here, so that you can live my experience vicariously through this post, and understand why this company is SO amazing.

A few days ago, I was warmly welcomed into this vast, creative, factory-like space on a brutally hot New York City afternoon. When I arrived on the fourth floor, I entered a hallway of several workrooms. It was unclear which one was a pleating company, but I entered the friendliest-looking space, and verified that it was the right one. This patient, intelligent man, who was obviously passionate about his craft, talked with me for the next half-hour or so, explained some important aspects of pleating, his role in the garment industry, and his family history in the pleating business. He showed me a gallery of beautiful pleated garments they had done, and I was just blown away. Oh, the possibilities!

For starters, pleating isn't neatly folding and then just permanently creasing lengths of fabric for you to use in your sewing project. Pleating is engineering. They need to know how you will use your fabric, in order to pleat it properly for your use. Where will your seams be? How does it need to hang? This is mathematical, scientific, artistic... specific!

How do I know that they know what they're doing? They are in this business for FOUR generations now. This family has been in the pleating business since 1931. With a family history that travels from Armenia, to Lebanon, to New York City, they have long been immersed in the business of making things. George's quiet father, who sat nearby while George talked to me, began learning this business when he was a boy of only 8 or 9 years old. And it is a complicated affair. Some of the pleating George showed me requires 14 processes to get the right look and feel. How do they do it? The methods are closely-held family secrets. Gotta love that.

They know the whole business, soup to nuts. George has been a manufacturer of garments when the NYC Garment District was a real manufacturing center, he's been involved in contracting, and he's seen the rise and relative demise of the garment district and has shifted to accommodate its changing face. This is a story of artisans, experts, survivors... and thrivers, frankly, in a time when many businesses have just succumbed to the ever-shrinking opportunities in the garment industry.

So, the next obvious question is, "How much does it cost to have your fabric pleated?" The answer is, "It depends on what you need done... but you can afford it." It is surprisingly affordable, considering what they do. Get this... everyone needs help to get their fabric pleated. You need to consult with them first, so they know how to pleat your fabric for your project. How much extra do you pay for this? Not a penny. It is a value-added service, because you can't do without it! It is VITAL to the process. How cool is that? "Will they pleat my fabric if I am only doing one or a few small projects?" The answer is "Yes!" Do I need to be a manufacturer? "No!" Finally, "How much fabric do I need to buy?" If you are making a skirt (more common than most projects) use the bias skirt pleating calculator on George's blog after consulting, and you will know! There is a lot to know, and a lot to understand, but if you as fascinated as I am, you will be inspired.

I could go on for pages and pages, but this post is only meant to whet your appetite for pleats...

If you are a visual person, like me, think on these things:

In case you don't know, pleating is a "permanent" process, for all practical purposes. Sure, you can ruin it over time, but for normal use... permanent. Now... imagine pleated color-blocked designs. Imagine starburst pleats used for window treatments... or for a bridal train. Sigh... Imagine a wonderful pleated, lightweight skort. Imagine a skirt with pleats of varying width, some of which reach up over the waistband to become belt loops. Sheer genius. These are examples he showed me during our talk. Oh, yeah, you gotta see it to appreciate the magic...

After engaging him in conversation, I was amazed to learn technical facts I never knew anyone had already sorted out, like that there is a 48 pleat industry standard for a pleated skirt. I mentioned that I would love to make a maxi-style dress using an ombre fabric, and he said that ombre makes an arc when pleated. Just think for a minute, and you'll see it. Of course! Unless you cut rectangles, and happen to be shaped like a rectangle, how could you form anything but an arc? You will also need how to properly cut and stitch your pleats. It is likely that you don't already know. If you think it is worth taking a try-and-see approach, consult the International Pleating blog for why this approach is ill-advised.

So, if you want to manufacture pleated garments, just know that when you go out looking for service providers, that there are regular patternmakers, and there are pleating patternmakers. There are pleaters who serve the garment industry, and there are those who make pleating patterns (for the actual pleats, not the garment). Getting your fabric pleated up uses the combined expertise of all of these functions. This is an engineering project.

And... you just HAVE to see the International Pleating blog! Go after reading this, seriously.

And continue to keep your eyes on the blog for future posts, where George will soon be explaining/defining "couture pleating", to help educate us all.

What a wealth of information and history this company/family has. And there you have it, folks - another reason to "go upstairs" in the garment district.

International Pleating
327 West 36th Street
4th Floor
New York, NY 11018
646-580-9766

Call ahead for appointments (you'll need one to discuss your project), but they operate during standard business hours.