On needing closure... This post may be overwhelming...

Every clothing item that opens or expands in some significant way, every bag you carry, and practically every sewn accessory that needs to contain something has to open somehow.  It also has to close somehow.  There are many creative ways to achieve this, but unless we invent something new, when it comes to hardware, we are mostly limited to what we have seen.

Elastics abound at Daytona Trimmings, M&J Trimming, Pacific Trimming, and Sil.  But have you looked at Manhattan Wardrobe Supply lately?  They've got some SUPER strong resilient elastic that would be wonderful in a waistband, and great gripping elastic that would be fantastic for lingerie. Check it out!

Drawstring Cord Stops.  Wildly imaginative ones can be found at Botani, and M&J Trimming.  Pacific Trimming has creative cord stops you never would have imagined!

Toggles. Go to Botani. M&J has them, too!

Grommets. Have them applied at Steinlauf & Stoler (they have moved in fairly recent past) or Star Snaps.

Snaps of all sizes. Magnetic or not... Have them applied at Star Snaps!

Covered Buttons. You can have them done at BT Button.  (But don't say I didn't warn ya.

Buttons in quantity? Buttonology or Pacific Trimming.

Buttons for just one specific project?  Possibly M&J Trimming, possibly Pacific, Joyce Trimming, plus lots of other choices.

Snap Tape. Manhattan Wardrobe Supply and Daytona are the best/easiest places to find it.

Hook & Eye Tape - Steinlauf and Stoller, Joyce Trimmings, Daytona Trimming, Pacific Trimming.

Zippers. Depends on what you need.  Jus function, specific size, or quality?  Is your zipper a design feature?  Botani or Pacific.  Functional?  Sil.  Specialty? Depends... 

Velcro. Manhattan Wardrobe Supply is certain to have what you need, but Daytona has plenty, too!

Leather laces. Leather, Suede Skins, Joyce Trimming, and Leather Impact will have what you need.

Fancy buttons?  Tender Buttons... (updateL now closed!) But you would have had to leave the garment district for that, anyway.

Oh, and a kind reader mentioned that I forgot to remind you that Jonathan Embroidery will do perfect, custom buttonholes for you!

If you need a closure map, that holds all of this information in one lace, you can buy one...

Where to buy closures in the garment district (with descriptions):

This map is $15. Purchase option below:

Archer Zippers - Where'd ya go?

While in the garment district today, I wanted to check in on Archer Zippers.  Guess what?  Gone.  Checked phone #, no answer.  Looked up website. Nothing.  Looks like they're gone.  If you know something different, let me know!

DIY vs. "DIFM"

C'mon...

There's no shame in it.  

You have fallen in love with an idea for a project.  You've imagined it, you know what you want the fabric to look like, feel like... You  know how you want the finished product to hang, to flutter in the breeze, to hug, to mold...

You just don't have the time/energy/skill to make it all happen.

"I wanna take a class!" you say.  You peruse the offerings of sewing schools, colleges, fashion schools and universities.  You ask friends who do amazing work if they will teach you.  Sure, on one of those leisurely Saturdays you so often spend lazing around in your spotlessly organized home, with kids, spouses and others so engaged in their own lives, who'll miss you for a couple of hours?  Yes, your copious amounts of free time should be spent learning to bead/embroider/knit/design/drape/smock/dye/applique.  And, if you're diligent, it should only be a decade or two or three before you're really good at it.

My own hand beaded fagotting, cut away from a blouse I made about 15 years ago... I loved it so, but Man, was that time consuming!

OR....

You can go to an professional, who will do the things that would take too long to do, that you haven't learned to do, or don't have the equipment to do properly.

A velvet covered button I had made at B&T Buttons.  I could never achieve this smooth, professional quality on my own - and I didn't have to try!

A grommet I had applied for me at Star Snaps for my cradle bag.

I love the DIY movement.  I also love the spirit of the Quilting Bee, DIO (Do It Ourselves).... but I'm also becoming a HUGE fan of DIFM (Do It For Me) projects, as well.  My creative brain is endlessly swirling with ideas that may never come to fruition without some very specific help.

I have long suffered the curse of trying to figure out how to make something look great while I "figure out" how to do it on my own. Mining the resources of the garment district has really helped me finish many "unfinishables" or long-languishing projects.  

Believe me, though... my stash is still pretty large, and I've got a long way to go before all of the dreams piled in those boxes, bags and hangers are realized!

Here's a quick resource list  of things you can have done for you, saving you time, and elevating the quality of your projects:

Custom Fabric Flowers (a place you've truly gotta see to believe)
Pleating
Zippers cut to size
Covered buttons
Snaps, studs, etc.
Grommets
Feather steaming, shaping, sculpting, applying
Embroidery, beading
Fabric printing
Smocking, tucking, general fabric manipulation

In a nutshell, stop kidding yourself... either go learn, do, and dedicate yourself to getting things finished, or pay someone who can.  I am following my own advice, and I have work to do at this very moment.

Ok - now that you understand your mission...

Check out the upcoming Speakeasies, and get inspired!

Why Panda?

And then there's Panda.

247 W 38th St  New York, NY 10018

(212) 302-9434

I have wanted to write about Panda so many times, but have found myself stumped each time I start. Set up more like a well- organized factory supply room than a retail environment, Panda, despite being nestled among several seemingly similar stores, holds a space and purpose of its own on that busy stretch of 38th Street.




In the beginning of the business (1992), Panda's main customers were local sewing factories because the local business was big at that time. But now, their main customers are major apparel manufactures and factories in South America instead of small local sewing factories. Luckily for us in New York City, they have a location right here, giving us access to their products.




From my perspective, the main reasons to go are the zippers and steaming/pressing supplies. They provide a brief zipper education on their website, to help you know what is available to choose from.




Seam bindings, thread, zippers, cords, glues, fasteners, tools, notions... it isn't very "browseable" for the easily overwhelmed, but will absolutely satisfy those who know what they want. They have particularly interesting zippers, elastics, velcro, cups, pads, irons, steamers... it just goes on and on... and on...




In my opinion, Panda is aimed at the sewing professional, rather than the hobbyist, with an emphasis on selling items in quantity. No time to waste, consistent stock, clearly marked items available in ample quantity. If you are local (NYC), and meet a minimum purchase amount, they will deliver items to you personally. Now, seriously, you can't beat that, can you?

Speakeasy Tour - "The Hard Stuff"

*There are two more Speakeasy tours planned before this Fall.  Read this entire post to see the general sewing May speakeasy date, description, and price. The Fall date will likely be in September. If you would like to come on a later date, stay tuned...

I'm planning my first themed Speakeasy tour - this one, on Friday, June 21, will be the last one before the fall.  This one will not focus on everyday apparel, but will give you information and resources for doing "the hard stuff". Leather, suede, closures, embellishments, and home dec stuff, where more guidance may be needed to get the job done. This tour has a more educational purpose, and will include resources for supplies, appropriate tools, and general information on how to work with them.

Note: You can sew leather with your home machine.

The Hard Stuff 

(Leather, suede, corsetry, closures, handbag and accessory supplies, home dec)

10AM - 1PM  

Shopping (Will include several very special stores with a wide variety of offerings suitable for many different purposes/types of garments, but focusing specifically on stores who offer the tougher stuff to work with - leather, suede, home dec fabrics, etc.)

1PM-2PM

Lunch (included in your fee)

2PM - until end of business day

Armed with your "Secret Map" and your own interest in or desire to visit the many other stores you see or have learned about, you may visit more garment district stores if you wish, and give unique codes (that you'll get from me) to vendors who will give special assistance/discounts.

The cost of this guided, efficient tour is $90 per person. If you use this trip to shop, learn, avoid wasted purchases/effort, and participate in what the NYC Garment District has to offer, you will save at least as much as you are paying, and potentially far more.

Wanna come? Click below, send payment, and the details on meeting time/place will be provided.

Friday, June 21, 2013 "Hard Stuff" Speakeasy Tour

Regarding cancellations:

If you have paid and wish to cancel 7 days or more before date - 100% refund

Fewer than 7 days - 50% refund

If you don't come on the scheduled date or cancel within 24 hours or less - you will forfeit your refund, but can switch reservation to a future tour date.

If I cancel a tour for reasons not related to weather, newsworthy acts of God or other emergencies, you are entitled to your choice of a full refund, or a future tour.

Come along on a tour!  We have lots of fun!

NYC Notion store review: Archer Zippers & Trim

Note: June 16, 2014 - While in the garment district today, I wanted to check in on Archer Zippers.  Guess what?  Gone.  Checked phone #, no answer.  Looked up website. Nothing.  Looks like they're gone.  If you know something different, let me know!

Sometimes, you simply have to actually look up in the garment district to find something great.  Walking along 39th street, headed elsewhere, I noticed very bold, basic signs in the 2nd floor windows of the building 244. The large yellow signs in the window indicate that you that you can get YKK zippers and labels there - wholesale or retail, but you just have to take a step of faith inside to discover this place.  If you've been following me a while now, you know I generally have no problem doing that, so I entered the lobby, and stepped right into the elevator.  An energetic man jumped in quickly after me, authoritatively asking "What floor?".  "Two!" I shout back, startled at his arrival.  He pushes the button quickly, and says, "I'd tell you to tell them I said hello, but they probably won't remember me. " I smile, not sure what to respond. "Good people in there."  Okay.  "I'll tell them that someone they probably won't remember says hello." I give a quick nod, and the elevator reaches the second floor.

I have no idea what he actually meant. After all, I've never been "there" or met "them". Completely unsolicited, but reassuring endorsement.

I arrive on the second floor and walk into the space.

If the world "amazeballs" is not in your garment district lexicon, it sure should be after visiting this place.  Not because it is such a visual delight; the setting is extremely industrial. But yes, you can buy retail!  One zipper or 1,000, you can get them there! "No frills" is probably the best way to describe the environment. The business cards convey that sentiment as well, don't they?

Organized and brightly lit, they have lots and lots of zippers, as you would expect.  Plenty of colors and sizes.  Sure.  They will also repair zippers, which is good to know.  Covered, sew-through, and rigilene boning, spiral steel boning, horsehair braid hem stiffening in a variety of widths, and all sorts of magical notions and things people who make things need. Lots and lots and lots of thread (on large spools), lots of pins of different types, great scissors, those cool bent U-shaped cleavage boning things I love, all sorts of bra cups and underwires, ready made labels, custom labels, and most wonderful of all... wait for it... lots of factory stuff, not readily available in retail stores for people who make occasional or custom garments. You can only get those kinds of things from places who buy excess inventory.

What kind of people shop in there?  Based on my visit, a quick, steady rush of busy, serious designer-types who have no time to waste and already know what they want.  I didn't get the impression that "browsers" would get much attention, but you can certainly call out for a staffer if you have questions.  They seem extremely busy in there, so don't expect a chat. While certainly polite and professional, they are all business.

They have a website, but a visit to the store quickly reveals that they have a whole lot more to offer than the website displays.  I can't say that I know what everything they have is used for, so I would suggest a visit to see for yourself, if you're in the area.  You'll be glad you went!

Wanna find more places like this?  Need a sherpa?  If you want to find fun places to shop in the garment district, sharing the creative energy of a group, come along on a Speakeasy tour!

NYC Notions/Fabric/Unique Service store: Botani Trimmings Inc.

Note: Botani Trimmings has been reviewed here in the past, but I am seeing this place in a new light after last week's visit.  Read on for why...

Botani Trimming, Inc.
263 West 36th Street
New York, NY 10018
www.botanitrim.com
(212) 244-3222
Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM

Ever feel like you're missing something?  I certainly felt like I was, when I heard the occasional chatter about Lampo zippers.  Quite pricey by comparison to your standard YKK and other garment district offerings, I believed that their appeal was that they are fancier, indulgent, and sleek-looking, almost like jewelry on a bag or garment, which explains the higher prices (be prepared to spend at least $13 or more for one, depending on the type).

But... no.  I was wrong. That's mot really it. And now I get it.  And realizing that now, there are garments I made in the past that I wish I could reach back to retrieve and improve with these fabulous zippers.

How did I come to this revelation?  On a whim, I walked into Botani Trimmings, Inc, which I never pass on my usual routes in the garment district, and asked the question I had been sorta embarrassed to ask. I mean, when someone says "Chanel" to you, you normally just shut up, assuming it is out of your league, right?  Note: Visit the site to see better pictures of the place and products than I am capable of.

The lovely salesperson who greeted me, enthusiastically ushered me over to a wall of zippers, inviting me to test and experience the smooth flow of the zippers, check the teeth, appreciate the weight and durability of the tape.  Yes, it is obvious.  These are quality zippers.  The pull is definitely there to stay.  The open end, closed end, and double slider zips and vast variety of tape colors can certainly satisfy your quality zipper needs.

While standing there in the store, my mind jumped to a client for whom I made a 60's style Steve McQueen-like racing jacket.  He wanted his original duplicated, which had been made in Italy, and was now just impossible to find.  One of the first things my client mentioned, was that the right zipper was key to the project.  I found a quality zipper, which he vetoed, so we used the one from his original jacket... but THESE zippers... oh THESE zippers, were clearly what he meant, had I known.

Original racing jacket, made in Italy

Original racing jacket, well-worn, but perfect.

Duplicate I made with modern materials.

So, who uses Lampo Zippers?

Referred to as the "Ferrari" of zippers, Lampo has been used by designers like Balenciaga, Chanel, Prada, and more.  High-end designer bags often use Lampo zippers.  Check the pull, and you may find the engraved "Lampo" name.

When would it make sense to use a Lampo zipper?  

When you expect the item to last a long  time, and you don't want to ever replace the zipper.
When it needs to be durable, and of quality.
When you want the quality of the zipper to match the quality of the materials used to make the item.
When you want to replace the zipper in an item that used this type/quality of zipper.

The company clearly has a long, rich history.  Enough so that you feel like you've attended a lecture after visiting their website. An odd little Fellini-esque video can be found on the Italian site, too, with some Italian poetry included... but really, you don't need a Rosetta Stone course to appreciate it.

Since their expansion, in addition to their fashion hardware (aptly named) selection, Botani has a leather department, and will now, not only provide the supplies, or even perform the repair on handbags, but they will actually create a custom handbag based on your design.  I can feel a collective push from you readers as you scream "Get outta here!", but no, I'm serious! The particularly elegant layout may feel a bit intimidating to the uninitiated, but you can totally go in and ask any silly question you want, and get treated with complete respect.

So, now you know.

Buying Zippers in NYC's Garment District

SIL Thread at 257 W. 38th Street in the Garment District offers zippers in all types of teeth and colors

When I need a separating zipper or closed zipper cut to size, I usually head to SIL Thread. This is for those cases where I don't need my zipper to be a star, just functional; for stunning Riri or Lampro zippers I go to Pacific Trim (Riri) or Botani Buttons (Lampro).

Here are the steps to buying a zipper to-size at SIL:

1. Decide on what kind of teeth you want: Brass? Nickel? Molded plastic?
2. Factor in your application: If you're making outerwear you'd probably want a zipper with a wider tape and larger teeth, but something more delicate if you wanted an exposed zipper on a dress. SIL has many choices for tape width, weight and zipper teeth size.
3. Find the right color zipper for your garment
4. Take your zipper to the counter: Tell your cashier what size zipper you want out of the one you've selected, and whether you want it to separate (like for a jacket application) or closed (like in a dress or skirt). Pay for your zipper and then wait while an employee cuts it to size for you.

Today at SIL I bought a separating zipper with molded plastic teeth that I'll use on a spring jacket I'm making. It cost me just $4 and I only had to wait a few minutes while it was sized to 12 inches.

Even though Coats & Clark has expanded its zipper offerings to keep up with the styles, and they served me well for many years, I love being able to buy zippers that look more RTW. What about you, readers? Where do you buy your zippers?

SIL offers a large selection of colors and zipper teeth styles.

When you've chosen the right zipper for your application, take it to the counter to buy it and then have it cut to size