Leather: Whether friend or foe (faux!), you'll find what you love there!

It was a simple visit to a leather vendor I've visited before. I knew what to expect.

Or so I thought...

I stepped into the showroom of NAT Leathers, a beautifully organized and welcoming office and meeting space, with an exciting stocked shelved section in the rear room. I was warmly greeted by Nick, who was happy to show me the wonderful pieces his space had available.

As eye candy, I share these with you:

Metallic faux leather

If you could touch this, you would consider it "hand candy" as well.

Clearly, I had misunderstood the possibilities of the world of "faux" leather.  I remember as a teen, that faux leather was something to be made fun of.  Inferior in quality, look, performance, durability, and lifespan, it was considered a cheap imitation of a superior product.  It was for "posers".  But no longer.

NAT's product range includes high end faux leathers. "How do your faux choices compare to the real thing?" I asked.  Nick's answer? They perform as well, if not better, than real leather.

And when it comes to real leathers, there is so much beautiful product in this space, that you will just squeal with delight (as I did) when you see the range of weights, textures, finishes, colors, and softnesses (if  that's even a word).  It is a wonderful adventure.

A "polka dotted" optical illusion?

Sparkly "disco" leather!

Lots of textural excitement!

Beautiful colors to custom order...

So, what's all this leather for?  Accessories, clothing, shoes, home dec, upholstery, hospitality... you name it.  On trend, budget-friendly, and wonderfully curated color palettes.  Custom orders and bulk orders are welcome, as is the small quantity shopper.

N.A.T. Leathers 

248 West 35th Street Suite #505

New York, NY 10001

Call 212.643.1702 for an appointment to meet with one of the team, or to inquire about bulk pricing.

Did I find a few gems?  You bet I did!  Then I hightailed it to SIL for leather thread and leather needles, to Manhattan Wardrobe supply for glue, and to Daytona for a special trim.  I'm in creative heaven! 

I've spoken at length in the past about shopping for leather in the garment district, sewing with leather, and I have shown you some personal projects I've explored/made.  The tools and assistance you need are right there in the district to help get you going (think Botani, Lou Lou, Star Snaps), and, if you are motivated and brave enough, trust me, you can create what your heart desires. 

In the District...

So last week, I had the pleasure of strolling around in the district, getting some errands done, and checking out some regular haunts. 

My first random sighting of the day was this sign, next to an empanada cart, with the slogan "best empanada ever", and some very unique artwork... That's quite a claim.  If I am feeling like having one, I may try the next time I pass by, because I am an empanada lover, and they are only $2 each.  I'm generally leery of food carts, but they have the guts to have a FB page, which is a bold invitation for feedback, so I feel they must be quality oriented. Looks like 5 stars is the commonly held opinion. I will try one. Has anyone else had one?

My next stop, was LoLou buttons, since I lost a button on my beloved Miyake coat, and I needed to replace it.  They no longer have the buttons I used, so I needed to look for new ones.  I found a button I love, and, without missing a beat, the owner looked at my choice and said to said to me, "Just replace the top button, and leave the others.  It will be perfect.  It is, and I thank him.

Then, while walking down the street, I ran into one of the owners of Rosen & Chadick, where I originally bought the fabric to make the coat.  We hugged, said our hellos, and she stroked my coat with love.

A picture doesn't do it justice...

Then, there were scraps of this breathtaking leather at Day to Day, which I bought as a heavily discounted pile of small pieces.  The leather is a a beautiful soft purple color, with raised silvery flowers, which is not conveyed in the photo above.  What will it be used for?  Shoes.  How long will it take?  Only the good Lord knows!  You'll know when I get there, because I'm sure I won't be able to shut up about them once they are done!

Bra closure

And this bra closure I bought at SIL Thread  for a special custom bra I'm making.  I'd share more info, but it may be in the TMI category, so I'll just keep that one to myself...

From the beginning...

page from The Pattern Cookbook, 1890

Can you imagine stocking a kitchen from scratch in the 1890's?  So many expectations to fulfill, so many procedures to learn!  With a book like the one from which this page was copied, you could set a budget, complete the list to the best of your ability, and then, follow the recipes confidently.

Something like this list should be made for sewing supplies.  While I'm sure there are some somewhere... (Think Vogue Sewing, or the US Government Sewing Book from 1969), there are so many other options and alternatives nowadays, that even making decisions is daunting.

Stocking your sewing supplies as a newbie is not an easy task, and is made even more complicated by the insane barrage of new-fangled products available to us.  I've collected many old sewing and home-making books over the years, and noticed how they all seek to help people organize their priorities and tasks in the most efficient manner possible. But if you look to newer publications, they all seem to be "selling" something.  And, I suppose, it is because most of them in fact, are trying to sell you something. 

Inspired by the newbies who participated in my recent garment district tours, I offer some of the following ideas to get started.  These resources are all located in the district, but you can, of course branch out to whatever suits you as you gain confidence.

First off, let's make sure you have the right marking and cutting tools:

Fabric scissors (quality varies, so let your own budget and quality requirement be your guide)

Anywhere from $24 and up 

Marking pencils

White is always safe, but get whatever colors work for your project. ($2 - up)

Carbon Paper

assortment - $6 - up

Pins

Variety of options - $4 - up

Tracing wheel

$2 - up

Hand sewing needles

$4.00 - up

Thread

$2 - up

Interfacing

If beginner, start with woven, sew-in - rather than fusible.

Muslin

$2.50 yd - up

Pin cushion

$4.00 - up

Sewing table

Fancy or not - must be right height and strength for the job $70- up

Sewing chair

Anything will do, but be sure to consider comfort and ergonomoics

Sewing machine

Free, used, new, fancy - $35 and up, likely

Measuring tape

$1 - up

Ruler/Curve

$21 - up

Seam ripper

$3 - up

A reference book, with definitions

Example - $20 - up

I'd also suggest a subscription to a quality sewing publication or social networking group for encouragement and information.

Where do you find the things pictured above?  Manhattan Wardrobe Supply, Pacific Trimming, Steinlauf & Stoller, Around the World Books, and SIL, to start.

Everything else is optional, or to be considered on a case-by-case basis.

So, if you had NONE of the above items, you would expect to spend at least $250 on the low end, if you are not buying a new machine.  However, the value in the adoption of this new pursuit/craft/art/hobby is priceless.

Tales from last week's Speakeasies...

On three separate days last week, I took Speakeasy participants to many different locations, for many different reasons.  Our stops included about 25 different locations in all, for more reasons than I can explain in just one blog post (it would be HOURS of reading), and believe me, the district still has many treasures to offer beyond those specific trips, and additional surprises to inspire any of you as well.

So, here are some tidbits...

Who's got a great Ponte knit? Try B&J Fabrics...

Who's got a great ponte knits in great colors?  Try B&J Fabrics

Double georgette in great colors?  Botani.  Yes, really!

Silk in great (unexpected) colors?  Botani!

And what was learned?  How to mark your buttonholes for Jonathan Embroidery, how to get custom fabric flowers made, how to cut your fabric correctly for pleating, how to access FIT's amazing resources, how to fabric shop effectively, where to find the most stellar array of boucles, how not to get taken advantage of by fabric vendors, how to get snaps, buttons, grommets installed, where to get the best muslin and fusibles, where to find large rolls of carbon paper, where to find the best assortment of elastic for various uses, where to find some great (and economical!) silk solids, great notions suppliers, and lots of eye candy.

Yes, it was work, but as always, it was also fun!

Planning your own garment district tour

*Reposted and updated*

Anyone can take you on a shopping trip.  Let's face it; a basic tour... "Here's a store! Let's go inside!" - That doesn't take much skill or knowledge.

Here's the thing.  Since I am in the district all the time, talking to store owners, looking at what's new, and discovering what's special, I curate a really useful selection of stores, respecting your time, their businesses, and recognizing their ability to cut special deals when appropriate. There are more stores than most people have time to explore, and while some of them are otherwise invisible, talk to enough people and you can find any of them... eventually. Below, I am offering a list of some stores for those of you who would prefer to organize your own explorations.  I made this list in 2012, and while much of it has changed, much of it hasn't...

Let's say you are in New York City for a week. Or a day.  Or a few hours.  Or even a few minutes... You may read this blog, and get jazzed by the descriptions of a variety of stores, but which ones do you visit?  Well, that depends on what you want to make.  Are you easily overwhelmed by too many stores and choices?  Are you on a budget? What season is it?  Do you know what you need, or do you need input and encouragement?

You can always plan to come with me on a guided tour.  My September 28th tour is full, but there are still plenty of spaces open for the November 2 tour (this was a long time ago...).  If you like the fun and support of shopping in a group, with an organized plan, discounts, and lunch, come with me!  Even if a guided tour is not your cup of tea,  keep reading...

With full awareness that I have been walking the district for years, and have grown very comfortable with these stores, I know that it remains a mystery and a maze for many others, and non-professionals are often intimidated by the frantic, constant hustle-bustle of the area. For shopping on your own, this blog gives you plenty of reviews and ideas for places to go, so I'll organize some choices for you, to make planning a little easier.  Of course, there are many more, but this will get your feet wet.  Click through the links for all details on any of these stores.

For the designer/fashionista type:

New York Elegant Fabrics
Paron
Fabrics & Fabrics (new, expanded Lace Star)
B&J 
Mood
Metro Textiles

For the crafter/accessory/home dec maker type:

New York Elegant (upstairs)
Leather Suede Skins
Leather Impact
Day to Day Fabrics
Botani
Pacific Trimming
Mokuba
Daytona
Beads World
Mood

Printed cottons:

Material World (window - front of store - Alexander Henry prints)
Rosen and Chadick (window)
NY Elegant (center aisle)

Shirtings:

Rosen and Chadick
New York Elegant

High quality, Classic fabrics:

Rosen & Chadick
B&J
Elliott Berman


For the Explorer/Adventurer/Bargain Hunter:

Truemart
Metro Textiles
Its a Material World


Formal/Bridal:

Sposabella
C&J
Fabrics & Fabrics
B&J

Costume:

Fabrics World
Spandex House
New York Elegant
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply
Dersh Feathers
M&J Trimming


Swim/Lingerie, Dance, Sport and Stretch:

Spandex House
Spandex World
Fabrics World

Notions and equipment:

Steinlauf & Stoller
SIL Thread
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply
Daytona
Panda

Buttons:

Pacific Trimming
M&J Trimming
Tender Buttons (not in the garment district, but not to be missed!)

Zippers:

SIL Thread
Steinlauf & Stoller
Daytona
Pacific
Panda
Botani

Patterns and books:

Paron
Daytona (very small, very haphazard selection)
Fashion Design Bookstore
Butterick (order online)
Onion (order online)
McCalls (order online)
Vogue (order inline)
Simplicity (order online)
Burda (order online/buy publication)
Folkwear (order online)
Vintage and Old Patterns (order online)
Vintage Pattern Lending Library (order online)


Linings:

Guide Fabrics

Services:

Getting snaps, studs, etc. applied
Getting buttons covered
Buttonholes
Grommets applied
Scissors sharpened
Pleating
Fusing
Dressmakers and teachers


Whew!  I think I need a nap... and this represents juts a SLIVER of the district.  Seriously.  Come on a tour (click the link at the top of the page) if you wanna hang out with the big kids...

The September 26 Speakeasy

I'll start with this:

I don't know if I can adequately convey the beauty of what we saw on Friday.  

I met our intimate group at our starting point on Friday morning, and immediately explained our Speakeasy shopping strategy.  Beautiful weather, our collective enthusiasm, and easy conversation created a solid, instant rapport. I shared some tips for navigating the district, negotiating with the salespeople, and the "speakeasy" elements of the stores we were to visit. Then I explained in detail, how I curated and organized the day's list of destinations.  Some "bonus" destinations were added on based on specific requests at the end of our day.  All in all, everyone had a ball... and I left the district tired and haunted by the fabrics I CANNOT bear not to purchase for myself.  Is this an illness?  Well, certainly not if I sew it all...  Okay, so I have to sew it all or check into a mental hospital.  So I'm whipping out the scissors and turning on the machine TONIGHT. 

Clearly, I will need to return to the district to buy some of the things that are haunting me next week.  Here is a small representation of the things that specifically called out to me:

At Fabrics and Fabrics:

Hello, Lover... The magical cotton weave above called my name, and reminds me of the artwork from the Ezra Jack Keats children's books, and it needs some of that blue leather to complement it...

That fabric makes me feel like this...

This one, I call a "drunken grid" - a cotton shirt weight fabric, begging me to take it home...

At New York Elegant:

At Elliott Berman:

Silk - ya gotta feel it to believe it.

Outta this world wool.

More outta this world wool...

I think I've met this fabric before, and I'm still in love.

This says home dec in the most beautiful way...

You have to see this for yourself.

A digital print that is truly alive with color!

Two cottons at Rosen & Chadick, and one cotton print at Fabrics & Fabrics, and something that is just TO DIE FOR at NY Elegant I did not photograph (selfishly), because I want to get to them first!