Online fabric shopping survey results - updated!

As the holiday season is now in full swing, I am reviewing the best ideas for fabric lovers and sewists I have stumbled upon in the garment district and beyond.  Since many of you are not local, I am sharing what is most helpful here, with updated information where appropriate.

Updated From 11/30/12:

Boy, did you guys ever participate in the Online fabric shopping survey!  Here is a summary of the results, for your reading pleasure... I have only mentioned the most common responses here, but have shared detailed information with the vendors who have specifically  expressed to me that they are very interested in maximizing customer satisfaction.

There were 88 participants in the survey today.

93% of you who took the survey actually shop online.

What are your favorite online fabric stores?

The first three vendors (below) were mentioned by the most, by far!  Among the others mentioned, those with brick and mortar locations in NYC are clickable to link to their websites below:

EmmaOneSock

GorgeousFabrics

Marcy Tilton

Elliott Berman

City Quilter

Purl Soho

Spandex House

Mood (Mood has implemented third party shipping!  See details here)

A special mention goes out from one of the survey participants to Metro Textiles, who does not have a website, but will personally send swatches and handle requests by email with a high level of personal attention and customer service.

There were quite a few more mentioned who are scattered across the USA (and a few beyond our nation's borders, actually), which are VERY useful as study aids for the vendors with whom I have shared the survey results, but giving the full list here would be information overload. It has been shared with those vendors who want to research the detailed info.

What are your concerns about shopping online?

Color, quality, drape and texture.  It seems that product-related issues were significantly riskier bets for many of you than shipping concerns, which was the next in line.

Now, describe the store of your dreams!

Free or low cost swatches, reasonable shipping, great photography, Pantone colors, better fabric descriptions, suggested uses and weight information. Great customer service, clear return policy, ability to speak with a live person during business hours, a search feature on a user-friendly site.  You also want fair return policies when items are not as described/pictured.  Much more detail was offered, and was shared with the vendors who asked for it!

Thank you to all who participated.  The stores are listening!

Can we tawwwwwk???

I love comedy.  I love humor.  That is why I have watched countless episodes of "Fashion Police" over the years.  Latest internet reports tell us that Joan Rivers' condition is improving remains in a medically induced coma, has passed away, and I sincerely wish her and her family a peaceful recovery conclusion, however this turns out.

"Fashion Police", if you've never seen it, is a show where a fashion-critiquing panel sits and reviews the clothing of celebrities as they watch their red carpet arrivals at events.  It is often mean, sometimes hilarious, and sometimes genuinely educational, since some of the guest panelists often have actual technical, artistic or historical wisdom to share.

What disturbs me about it, is that it feeds into exactly what is so very wrong with our celebrity obsessed culture at the moment.  We beat them up, criticize and insult them relentlessly, and praise them arbitrarily for making choices that agree with what some fashion royalty has deemed appropriate or current. How can you feel flattered when you know what has just been said about the person next to or behind you on that very same carpet?

But let's not forget that this is comedy.  That's what it was all about.  There is no need to take all of this so seriously.  I have no ill feelings toward Gwyneth Paltrow whatsoever, and despite the fact that I don't get what it was that rubbed her the wrong way, Joan's comments about her were always fall-down funny!

One of the truest statements ever was uttered by my son, about age 5 or so at the time.  We were at a hospital, in the waiting room, where my mother was going to have surgery.  To my horror, my son began digging between the cushions of the waiting room sofa, and I quickly reprimanded him.

"I wouldn't do that if I were you!" I snapped.

Politely, he stopped, looked at me, and said, "Mom, if you were me, you'd like what I like, and you'd do what I do."

So true, my boy.  So true.

This Sunday, I watched a segment on CBS Sunday Morning, in which the brilliant Tavi Gevinson was interviewed.  What I love most here, is that she embraces what makes her unique, and follows the beat of her own drummer, and appreciates what is not "trending" for the masses, but touches her as an individual.





"Fashion" only works if a measurable group of people agree and spend money on it.  I, like Tavi, often exempt myself from that pursuit.  

Dismayed to find that shades of orange are on the upcoming horizon for fashion, I thought, "So what? I can create my own stuff!" 

The garment district fabric and supply stores support us all fully in this.  You can explore the garment district and find a rich palette including every color you can imagine, and you need not concern yourself with fashion AT ALL if  you don't want to.

Best stores for the anti-trenders (because of the breadth and variety of their offerings):

Butterfly Fabrics
Fabrics & Fabrics
Mood
Rosen & Chadick
Metro Textiles
B&J Fabrics
Chic fabrics

Oh, and there are so many more, it is just exhausting. Personally, I find it very hard to do more than 6 or 7 max stores in a single day, but the district is just throbbing with possibilities!  Enjoy what you make!

The cradle

I'll start with the reveal.  Slouchy leather inner bag, with a firm outer "cradle".  This is not one bag, but, potentially 10 (more, if I go crazy!), since I can change the cradle as my whims dictate! 

While I could go on and on about the details, the mistakes, the challenges... in the immortal words of Sweet Brown, "Ain't nobody got time fuh dat!"  (Just YouTube it if you don't know... yes, complete nonsense) So here goes...

My new bag, below:

I had been long inspired by this illustration, in a sewing book from the late 1800's...

Featuring this divine matelasse from Elliott Berman Textiles ...

Note: It was the fabric from Elliott Berman that cried out to me to make this bag. I adore the look and texture of this fabric, and just felt it should never hide from anyone, EVER.

Some fabulous, soft leather from Mood...

And this fabric I used as a lining from Truemart

Grommets/eyelets added at Star Snaps

Lampo zipper from Botani

Assembled bag, with removable "cradle"

The cradle slides through the reinforced base, which is permanently secured to the bag.  The handles travel through the grommets on the cradle, and are attached to the exterior of the leather bag.  The straps are removable, to allow coordination with different cradles.

Not easy, not cheap... but for about $140 worth of materials, and any other fabrics I may want to incorporate in the future, I can make as many bags as I like.  So, while I am not a person who buys pricey bags (and this one, in materials AND labor, if made for a client, would be quite pricey!), it becomes quite a bargain once I've made 5 or more of them!

By the way, it is HILARIOUS to see it all in just a few simple pictures here, compared to how many fits and starts it took to make it!

Side note: Another great strap option for a different "cradle".  These straps are sold at Joyce Trimming. 

So, whaddya think?  I'm interested in the full spectrum of comments, so feel free to say what improvements you think you would make as well!

Wanna fabric shop with me?  Come along on a Speakeasy tour!

In a much better Mood...

Update 5/22/13:  The Mood website is being revamped, as are some of the spaces within the store.  Keep your eyes open for more improvements as they move forward!

For some New Yorkers and frequent garment district shoppers, Mood has become the tourist attraction of the the area.  Arms crossed, squinting, scowling, people have complained that it is crowded, with inconsistent prices, long waits at the register, overwhelming...

But...

I really enjoy their leather and home dec departments, and ventured in to explore as I work out the design of a bag I'm currently working on. Boy, did I find what I was looking for, and boy, was has the shopping experience vastly improved!

With fresh eyes, I took myself on a bit of a tour around the place. At least 5 different employees must have asked me, in a completely friendly, gentle, and helpful way, if I needed help finding anything. The  organization of the space was incredibly neat and inspiring, and appropriate tools could be found near the supplies related to them.  Heavy-duty staplers, for example, are hung near the home dec upholstery fabric.  Thumbs up!

The seminar offerings are ever changing, and ever growing.  On the Mood website, the link can be found on the lower right, where the (small) word "classes" appears among the horizontal choices. Perfect for the tourist or the local, they are seminars, not hands-on classes, so you can learn without lugging equipment, or dedicating any large amount of time for multiple classes. Often taught by popular "sewlebrities" (like my new word?), they can fill up quickly. The free "Mood School" handouts with instructions for doing things like applying invisible zippers are fabulous.  The button selection is amazing, and as always, the home dec section is wonderful.

They have what i need for my bag!

Now, look at those wavy stripes!

Textures... colors...

More cool buttons...

In a nutshell, Mood can be a really great choice for the ambitious creative person who needs additional information or help. I have personally seen that management really listens and responds to the customer service feedback they have received. Mood is particularly great for the creative who craves order and instructions, and yes, it is a really inspiring place to be! 

Tourists and International shoppers... (additional info)

For the tourist, whether domestic or international, no matter where you are coming from, the garment district can be a really exciting place to shop in person.  The best places to go are often hidden from street-level view, but some shops/vendors really go above and beyond to be helpful and welcoming. The lovely Australian mentioned in the previous post, wants to share her praise of those vendors here:

"My special “shout out” and thanks would go to Eugenia at Elliot Berman, who is one of the nicest people in the whole garment district, George and Michael at Mood, for whom nothing is too hard, who have a great fabrics knowledge and who are genuinely interested in the customer’s interests, and to Michael, Lucy and Marceau at Paron…I remember Michael from Paron the first time I went into the store back in about 2000.  All at Paron are always so nice and so helpful."

The comments on my last post have inspired a lot of digging into why the fabric stores find maintaining websites and online order fulfillment so cumbersome, and the information I've gathered is both enlightening, and sobering.

Following the quote below, let me share some of my own professional history, so that you know that I strive not to venture into naive complaining about things that should be so "simple", without putting some tangible facts behind my statements.  The lovely Australian I referred to in that post, shared some of her thoughts and frustrations so eloquently, that I do want to add to what she has to say about shipping frustrations here:

"The shipping issue is not whether the ship fee costs more or less than the fabric being purchased. The issue is whether you are being asked to pay a reasonable ship price having regard to the available options. I tried to buy from a large online retailer that has a strong presence in the garment district (already referred to in a different context in these comments) and was asked to pay $230 for delivery of a package using UPS when the same package would have cost around $30 using USPS --- I know as I looked the cost up, emailed back and asked if it was a possibility to have the package sent USPS and there was a total lack of interest. It was pretty off-putting…and I cancelled the order. A $300 cancelled order was no biggie for them I suppose, but the larger issue is whether the right business model is in place for online retailing. The domestic US market is so big that perhaps it is not of much interest to cultivate an international market…but I think it is truly the way of the future…and for goodness sake, wouldn’t every NYC garment fabric store that pays shocking rents and frets about their business future in the declining district want to think about additional revenue streams? Even though Australia is a small country (population wise) we punch above our weight. Australians are fanatical online shoppers. One international clothing retailer lands 2 cargo planes of packages in Sydney EVERY DAY…EVERY DAY!! Australians were fast on the uptake with online shopping, and continue to be fast on every new internet, mobile thingy that comes along, so it’s the perfect market destination. (And for the time being too, there are no import taxes for packages under $1,000)."

In my own life, I began my professional career in banking, managing letters of credit and bills for collection for an enormous Japanese company.  I learned a great deal about the complexities of international shipping, documentation, and the financial end of things.  I moved from that position into export documentation for a three different textile companies, and from there, went into fashion jobs.  Since the companies I worked for had customers all over the world, we often had to send samples, swatches, and small amounts of yardage for testing, sample making, color approvals, etc.  In those days (the 90's),  many NY fabric companies used regular commercial services, like DHL, UPS, TNT and others, marking the package as "sample", and stuffing them into document envelopes or soft-sided envelopes, paying only the document rate, exploiting a shipping loophole.  This is no longer possible, as the couriers will now only allow documents to be shipped in document packages, and there is a maximum weight for documents.  That explains why I remember it being so cheap affordable.

Nowadays, the most doable and cost-effective option, as mentioned by Liz, above, is the US Postal Service.  The only less expensive method of delivery is if you happen to be a soldier on a US military base abroad.  Now, I'm not suggesting that any of you start hanging out at bars, revealing bare shoulders, winking at people in uniform, but hey... to score a great piece of silk.... no, no, no... I'm just kidding!

The best thing, by FAR to do, is to come here on vacation, or even on your way elsewhere, since NY is a crossroad to so many other destinations... do your shopping in person, and bring an extra bag, suitcase, or ship it back to yourself at the post office. If you want to be really efficient about it, come along on one of my shopping tours!

I have spoken in depth with a shipping expert, who has confirmed the following information for me:

Depending on your location, as far as shipping is concerned, the price for getting your package shipped from New York can really be outrageous, due to documentation requirements, the cost of transport, taxes, duties and fees. Many countries simply have governmental layers preventing the economical transport of goods to individuals.  This is just a fact of life.

Some carriers offer outrageously preferential rates to select businesses, due to the volume of shipping they do.  A company that sells in significant volume at the wholesale and retail levels could be in a position to negotiate with a large shipping company for great rates.

When it comes to websites, running a website requires CONSTANT updating, and keeping track of inventory of the goods offered on the site is a huge task.  And if the site is popular, and business is booming, it really requires EVEN MORE upkeep and personal customer service.  More than many people are willing or able to maintain.  It is no small affair.  At all.

I'd like to offer a list of websites of reader-recommended garment district web merchants who do a great job selling online.  In your experience, which ones do you like?

Mood offers sewing classes... Didjaknow that?

Did you know you can take classes at Mood?  As you know, since moving on to Mood Fabrics, the former owner of this blog is making sure everyone knows big things are a'happenin' on Mood's ever-improving website! When chatting with Meg one day, she let me know that the classes can also be found on their website, which I hadn't noticed before! I had previously only seen the signs in the store advertising classes... So, while looking at their class offerings online, I came across this one, which is one I'm sure many of you would find interesting. Click through for details on this class and more....

How to Sew Knits Like a Pro

Here's the "Psst..." part - The classes are affordable, small, and taught by people who really know their stuff... There are others, but this one speaks to a particular subject I know is a challenge for so many!

Now, of course Mood offers knit fabrics, and their wool knits are especially appealing right now.

Here are some other places to get some great knits right now:

Kashi at Metro Textiles has some knits I scouted out on our Speakeasy tour that are just TO DIE for at the moment.

B&J fabrics. Seriously. Yes, it has a reputation for being expensive. But they've got plenty of really wonderful cotton stretch knits that are so completely AFFORDABLE right now...

Happy shopping!